Ported box for 18's in explorer

[46panel 10+ year member]

I'm going to be building a ported box for my two 18" BL's. I've heard a quite a few setups facing towards the ceiling and I know thats what most people like in an SUV but I just dont care for how it sounds. I know it could be the install but I just dont want to.

I've been planning on doing sub back port back and that is what I was almost 100% set on doing but if I do it that way the box will have to be around 26" tall. I seen a thread where the guys box was high and everyone was saying it was too high, not allowing the waves back into the cabin, so thats what made me wonder if I shouldnt.

I really dont care about the visibility out of the back window, thats why I didnt care how high it was, and I really wanted to do sub and port back.

My max dimensions are 41.5" wide(but then I have like 5 inches on each side for the wheel well, which i figured would allow some air to move), 34 deep, and the from the floor to ceiling is 34 by the hatch and about 36 closer to 2nd row.

41.5x34x26 gives me 21.23 not including displacement and port, so if someone could help me with a desing I'd appreciate it. Would like to get around 7 cf3 for each tuned to around 33hz. Preferably sub and port both back.

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[shavenblazer 10+ year member]

Sub up port back FTW.

 

[46panel 10+ year member]

I really dont want 2

 

[kentb 10+ year member]

put a wall on it. look at my build.

 

[46panel 10+ year member]

I know thats why I was watching yours, and it is a possibility, but I just really like the way most systems sound when the subs are facing the rear. Just wondering if 26" would be to tall, or if I could get away with it not being that tall...I just assumed with only have 41.5 wide I would just make the port on the top or bottom unless I would have room on the side, I dunno I wish I had more room.

 

[Millertime1028 10+ year member]

Subs up port back will be your best bet , besides a wall . Im doing (2) 18's in my Jeep in which I will be doing sub up port back . With a box that big and having the subs and port firing back, I would imagine there being an issue with airflow around the box .

 

[46panel 10+ year member]

Gosh I know thats what I'm afraid of...it just always seems like subs facing away sounds deeper and rumbles more, I dunno if anyone knows what I'm talking about, but I just like the boomy sound. My t1 12's seem to get so much lower then l7 15's facing up, 4 type r's in a wall, and even at 18" btl in a wall, altho it did only have like 1000 watts going to it. I mean there isnt that many systems where I'm from but I havent heard any I liked that faced any other direction other than back. I know tons of people do, I'm just nervous I wont get what I want.

 

[46panel 10+ year member]

I'm thinking about doing a wall like kentb did with his two btl's. http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324490&page=5

Anyone think the wall behind the 2nd row would be a bad idea?

 

[Supergumby5000 5,000+ posts]

doing two 18's firing towards a hatch with port back would be stupid.

Your hatch will sound like ***.

unless you deaden the CRAP out of it.

 

[IDSkoT 5,000+ posts]

doing two 18's firing towards a hatch with port back would be stupid.
Your hatch will sound like ***.

unless you deaden the CRAP out of it.

SERIOUSLY?!

Are you bashing sub up port back?

The "style" that nearly every SUV and hatch do with great results?

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[46panel 10+ year member]

I think he was talking about it sounding like crap having both the sub and port firing backwords at the hatch instead of sub up port back. I know thats what most people do, but I just don't want to, I guess I'm just gonna wall it behind the 2nd row, and hope for the best.

 

[kush-divinity 10+ year member]

In Explorer, sub up, port up aint bad either. But, dude, you are gonna have HELLA hatch rattle with them pointed back. It aint just the frame and interior, it's those metal rods that work the door/glass handle. You cant make them quiet unless you take them out and slicone the handle as well. I took out my struts that hold the glass up, doubled up weather stripping, and took out the interior door plate, but I still have a terrible rattle, and it's from the door handle and it's related linkages.

 

[46panel 10+ year member]

Yea I mean I guess I started to realize that the back end would vibrant real bad, since the subs were gonna be aiming right at the window with only like 6 inches away. I'm just gonna wall it behind the 2nd row and try to seal it off. I'm sure no matter what, two 18" with 2400 watts is going to be loud enough for a daily driver. I just need someone to help desing a box now.

 

[05_ZX636 10+ year member]

i have expedition and am going to be running 2 BL 18s also with 2 sundown saz-1500ds strapped. Going to run subs up port back. I got design done from fishercustoms.com off soundsolutionsaudio.com

 

[kush-divinity 10+ year member]

Expedition doesn't have the same style of linkage in the hatch though. So there isn't 1/20 as much rattle as a 1990-1994 Explorer. Walling his truck is the best idea to prevent rattle, or sub up, port forward on driver's side works decent, IF you use clean sounding drivers. I hate the latch design on 1st gen. Explorers, after 1 week of having subs in, it sounds like 3 monkeys are fighting in your rear hatch trim panel. All those metal rods get to humping each other, and it sounds awful from the outside.