Box Recommendations - SQ Ported?

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Ok so answers to your questions, then I'd like to tell you my theory.

1: Haven't checked voltages yet. I noticed I do have a slight voltage drop. 13.5 when on and idle. Lights dim upon bass notes. I have AGM in hood. Ordered OFC 0awg for big three. Hoping this resolves.
2: Yes. It's a solid "x" frame + whatever the seats are made of and their backing. Rear deck is solid carpet lined plastic. Rattle is disgusting, so it's eating a lot of the air I'm sure.
3: Right now, the sub is literally an inch or two away from ceiling of trunk. Rear port has plenty of room around. If I rotate to sub out/port up, port would likely have 3-4 inches from ceiling, again with rear having plenty of space.

Ok. the fun part. my theory. Part of me is wondering if the Lexus ES350 mark levinson amp only sends the LOW frequencies to the 8" stock sub, which the LC2i is tapped from. I have two door 6x9, but these are only low-end - no vocals. My thought is maybe 8" signal is dedicated from 30-50, while 6x9 is 50+. I don't think this is likely. I really think it's another issue at hand. This would be more cumbersome to resolve as I'd have to then look into DSPs ro acquire all signals and sum them. How likely do you think this theory is correct? I feel a Lexus luxry car with the upgraded Mark Levinson sound system would have a 'full-range' low-end signal to it's stock 8".

You would have to test that, there's no way I could know which frequency ranges are dedicated to which speakers.

If you have a ported box, the subs need far less room typically than the port does distance wise from a side wall or something. I would still say face all rear, if you can, puts all the waves on one plane, and they all push forward together in the same general path.

It's hard to say about the seats, some people literally cut holes in the rear deck and stuff, and put breathable fabric over to cover up the hole, but it allows way more airflow back-and-forth.

I think it comes down to how bad do you really want it? You've just gotta be certain of everything before you spend more money you know? Better make sure that you test everything that's free to test before you spend more money and maybe spend it the wrong way or something, that's always my thought, not saying you are or aren't, but especially before you do a new box, I would test.

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

Same sub in my Toyota, I wanted a good all-around response as well. Under 30hz wasn't a goal but SOME extension and beats to blend with my deck powered coax was so... small ported and 35hz tuned designed for the vehicle worked for me. I'm more of a talk show listener but when I want music it better be fairly accurate.
Larger airspace is peaky, higher delay... etc. People looking for output start there in my exp. Eventually they end up with smallish airspace overpowered for a better result. Either way a smaller airspace tuned correctly can perform fine on whatever power you have. Its all tuning once the substage is in anyway.

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

To be specific I have a single compR 1244 on a mini 1.5k @ 2ohm in like 1.65ft3 side round ported sub back. The sub is like 10" from the gate and port is almost 4" from the strut tower close to the backseat.
I've got room for some groceries or baseball gear even with a loose full size spare jammed in there.
Plenty of volume for my needs too, I can make the rearview point down if so inclined.
150 it ain't but can do the job.