Poor Man's Buss Bar

[tommyk90 5,000+ posts]

You should. Sandbagger

I don't sandbag. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

So your truck didn't come with any rear seats at all? That's weird.

 

[Lakota 5,000+ posts]

I don't sandbag. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
So your truck didn't come with any rear seats at all? That's weird.

Nope. However, there's supposed to be a cover for that compartment on the side where my battery was. Maybe I should put it back on

 

[lilmaniac2 5,000+ posts]

Same thing on my buddies ranger ext cab, no seats just little storage compartment covers

 

[tommyk90 5,000+ posts]

Nope. However, there's supposed to be a cover for that compartment on the side where my battery was. Maybe I should put it back on

I would. Any original panels need to be in place.

 

[04_edge 10+ year member]

what size kinetik is that??

gives me ideas for my ranger...

 

[Lakota 5,000+ posts]

what size kinetik is that??
gives me ideas for my ranger...

The rear is a 2400 and the front is a 1400.

 

[vehementSPL 10+ year member]

Hmmm thanks for trying this. awesome idea. I honestly had been thinking about trying this. I figured copper is copper . Wasn't 100 percent on how much electricity it can conduct. you said it had a resistance of .001. what is suppose to be a good resistance...

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Copper is copper, that's why I find it hard to believe this is a cheap solution just because you are buying it in tube form. Copper is fairly expensive right now per lb, I see no reason why buying it in pipe/tubing form would decrease that price any.

If the stuff mashes down to an acceptable thickness, buying that 1/4" thick piece of bar was obviously overkill. IMO buying tubing and mashing it flat is pretty silly (no offense), just buy flat stock in the thickness you need. It should cost no more than the same amount of copper in tube form (approximately).

Lastly, yes aluminum is not as good of a conductor. But when you can buy a thick piece for cheap, that's nto a big issue. Its pretty easy/cheap to buy a piece thick enough to provide ample current flow with little resistance.

 

[PSturmer 10+ year member]

It's screwed down to my wooden platform. First I flattened it down with a vice then I took a rubber mallet to it on the concrete floor.

one thing i have not really seen on this forum is copper and oxidation. before you connect a bolts or ring terminal you want to scrape the oxidation off the copper with a wire brush so you get that pink look. this will help lower resistance

 

[Lakota 5,000+ posts]

one thing i have not really seen on this forum is copper and oxidation. before you connect a bolts or ring terminal you want to scrape the oxidation off the copper with a wire brush so you get that pink look. this will help lower resistance

Looks at the pics. See the scratches?//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Lakota 5,000+ posts]

If the stuff mashes down to an acceptable thickness, buying that 1/4" thick piece of bar was obviously overkill. IMO buying tubing and mashing it flat is pretty silly (no offense), just buy flat stock in the thickness you need. It should cost no more than the same amount of copper in tube form (approximately).

It's much easier to get scrap copper tubing than it is buss bar. For those of us that have scraps, or are able to get scraps it's a cheaper solution.

 

[vehementSPL 10+ year member]

You know audio I had thought about that. Copper is prob pretty close to costing the same by weight. But they may charge a little more for the process considering how much more popular copper pipe is vs buss bars. So still might be a bit cheaper to go with the copper pipe. But question is how much is a 8 foot section of of 3/4 copper pipe vs a 2 foot section of buss bar. I know you can cut the 8 foot seg into 4 ... 2 foot sections. and put them all together. I dunno. I would have to see how much copper pipe is before I made a decision I suppose

 

[delvryboy 5,000+ posts]

i used the tubing, no difference from my 1/4 copper bar. I would rather use copper than aluminum.

 

[melnlovr911 10+ year member]

woot. looks good. now get ready for casper (although i dont see much competition)

 

[Lakota 5,000+ posts]

woot. looks good. now get ready for casper (although i dont see much competition)

I'm not too ready for Casper. My box for AS1 isn't where I want it at. I'm also sick and have nowhere to test but outside I'm thinking about just throwing the old box in and doing S1 because I know what it's capable of.