plz help me out on the rules of a sealed enclosure. thx for ur help

[iceteebone 5,000+ posts]

and it doesn't matter the shape of a sealed enclosure really, just try to avoid a cube (something 12"x12"x12")
make sure every edge is sealed up nice though

1. straight cuts

2. WOOD glue/titebond; not gorilla glue or liquid nails

3. 1.5" course thread drywall screws every 5inches second

4. run a bead of caulk along the each inside edge.

5. cover if you want

6. listen

explain why a cube would be a bad thing //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eyebrow.gif.fe2c18d8720fe8c7eaed347b21ea05a5.gif

 

[JimJ 5,000+ posts]

In home audio, there's a "rule" that states you should avoid perfect cubes because of standing waves in the enclosure. That problem can be alleviated to a large degree by using deflex pad or some other material behind the driver, but even if it was a major problem, the wavelengths at subbass frequencies are so long that it's not going to make a difference.

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

In home audio, there's a "rule" that states you should avoid perfect cubes because of standing waves in the enclosure. That problem can be alleviated to a large degree by using deflex pad or some other material behind the driver, but even if it was a major problem, the wavelengths at subbass frequencies are so long that it's not going to make a difference.

Bingo.

Unless the enclosure we are talking about is in the tens of cubic feet (i.e. 30ft^3), shape of the enclosure for subbass frequencies is completely irrelevant. The wavelengths are entirely too long for standing waves to be an issue.

 

[maldecido33 10+ year member]

That's a myth. Shape is completely irrelevant for subbass.

i had heard a perfect cube caused standing waves

oh well, knowledge gained

 

[maldecido33 10+ year member]

edit, upon reading the other responses; i was right to a degree

just irrelevant to his application