Please tell me I didn't cook my ID V3

Try using A DMM to check the coils. Also if you take the sub out and the basket has a vent, try looking at the coil. It will be noticably dark if you cooked it. Its possible you were bottoming the sub out also.

 
If I burnt the coils though I don't think it would play any more, never seen one that would, but I don't know waht it could have been that did the sound like that and made it stop playing, I have not had the freaking subs for maybe a week now, I sure hope it is not down for the count. I described it the best I know how, it was booming then i heard ffffzzzttttttt and nothing, only one sub was playing. So I reached up and turned it off.
It cooled down the rest of the way home, about 20 minutes and I decided to try it again before I went inside and it is playing now. I don't know just though maybe some of you more Xp guys would know what happened.

I don't get it 550Watts is above a rating of 400 per sub? Divided by two that is 275 a sub

http://www.woofersetc.com/p4995/ID12D4-V3--Image-Dynamics-12"-Dual-4-Ohm-V3-Subwoofer.htm

Listed at 50 to 400RMS am I wrong?
http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/pdf/iD%20Product%20Spec%27s/iD12%20D4%20v3.pdf

I didn't read the whole thread so forgive me if this was already brought up.

 
Thank you for the link to the Sub with the RSM and Max on it. I admit that is something I should have checked, but I took woofers ECT word for it and thought it was 400RMS but still 550 on two 250RMS subs is not enough to burn the coils I don't think.

Also to the OTHER people on here sorry for the *****ing match but the kid was wrong and it showed in his post. I just got pissed off by him running his mouth and bragging on Kicker CVRs was to **** funny to let go of. He wants me to say I jumped the gun on posting about the RE Sub, which he now calls a cheap sub, but will not admit he is way wrong on all of this, go figure, thats about right from and ignorant kid. I see he does not have a clue what he is talking about what so ever now so I have as stated above already let it go.

BTW...just because you but a $80.00 pair of comps and pay $200.00 for them does not make them good. It means you took a screwing.

I do have one more question on this though please, if anyone could answer, do you think the sub will be fine or should I try to contact Image Dynamics and see about a warranty on the sub. Thanks.

 
They wont cover cooked coils. A 500w Sub can blow off 200w if its clipped. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 
Makeshift here:I know that. I've rewound a few myself. Generally the coil former is coated with epoxy, and allowed to dry until tacky, then while winding, epoxy is coated on the wire while it is being wound on, after each layer, the epoxy is allowed to sit until it is then tacky, then repeat the process until you have a desired layer count to correspond with the desired DCR, which can easily be calculated with the ohms/foot method.

I'm not saying you think I'm stupid, but I gathered it to be that way.
Not sure what the tackiness of the epoxy has to do with the topic at hand, or my comments earlier. If its just to show you've worked with raw voice coils... ok. I wasn't calling you out or questioning your knowledge/intelligence. BTW, what's the kelly blue-book value on your car??? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

They wont cover cooked coils. A 500w Sub can blow off 200w if its clipped. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif
No it cant. It can blow off an amplifier rated for 200 watts rms if its clipped hard, but at that point its putting out more than 200wrms.

To the two guys arguing about blue book figures... you both lost. Cut your loses and move on, both of you.

 
Not sure what the tackiness of the epoxy has to do with the topic at hand, or my comments earlier. If its just to show you've worked with raw voice coils... ok. I wasn't calling you out or questioning your knowledge/intelligence. BTW, what's the kelly blue-book value on your car??? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

No it cant. It can blow off an amplifier rated for 200 watts rms if its clipped hard, but at that point its putting out more than 200wrms.

To the two guys arguing about blue book figures... you both lost. Cut your loses and move on, both of you.

You mean to tell me a horribly clipped 200w Signal couldnt cause enough heat to damage the VC?

 
do like audioholic said check your wireing make sure you have a 4 ohm load to the amp. is the box one box or seperate chambers? how big is the box? what is the gain on the amp? do you have any bass boost or other enhancers turned on? also you should be able to look at the coil to see if it's burned. from there we can proceed.

 
Well it is one box but has seperate chambers. The box is 1.25CF per chamber. The amp gain was set at 70% with no bass boost but I did have loudness turned on with the headunit. Here is how I had it wired if this makes sense to you guys.....

Dual 4Ohm voice coils......coil set 1 + was wired to Coil set 2 neg. Then on the second Sub same with coil number one + wired to coil number 2 neg. Then from amp I had + going to coils 2 + and neg going to coil 1 neg. Same for other Sub.

I will go out and take the sub out now and look at it and see if it looks burnt. Thank you very much for your time and help.

 
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woofer_wizard.asp?submitted=true&woofer_qty=2&woofer_imp=4

I used Wiring Option #2

I really do not see any burn spots inside of the magnet but the sub stoped playing again a while ago, after cooling it started playing again. I am lost on this not enough XP to know what is wrong. I have checked and rechecked all wiring. I even changed the wiring from the amp to see if it was a bad channel and same thing. I will try to take a picture and see if I can post it. It was not simple to get that plastic cover off around the magnet either.

 
You can't seem to stop making assumptions, Ksan.

I never bragged about my speakers. Not once. In fact, I referred to them as "nothing special", "mediocre" and "entry level" several times within this thread.

I paid $85 for my RF comps. The only reason I linked their price is because you were bigging up some Polk Momo's that're nothing special. Last winter you could buy 2 pairs of brand new momo comps for $149, but you argued that they're worth $200. If you paid $200 for those Momo comps, you're more stupid than even I thought. I was just showing that certain websites have a huge markup on my comps as well. Besides, once again, you are the one who stated that my comps were inferior to yours. I stated on numerous occasions that neither are anything out of the ordinary, and I'm saying it again right now.

And yes, I did say the RE SR subs are cheap. I said this because it's true. But decent subs can be had for cheap. The SRs are great for what they cost. Besides, I'm not the guy who purchased blown SRs, placed them in an enclosure that's 2x too large and then b*tched like a 5 year old when it didn't turn out awesome.

 
misfit, my god man, just stop. I think you are a good guy, but you are just making yourself look bad at this point. Advice, not an attack. You should be hoping this thread will die, not keep bumping it quoting prices for things you own. Really.

Ksan, the magnets will not show any signs of burn marks. Test the impedance with a DMM and get back to us. Telling us you wired it like a diagram shows does not tell us if you made a mistake while wiring.

 
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