PLEASE help! Problem w/ amps. (Potentially problem with remote wire)

[Jdb0915]

My sound system in my car has worked perfectly for years. I have a 1000W amp that powers a 12in comp sub and then goes on to a 500w amp that powers my speakers. The other day everything stopped working. I confirmed my grounds are good, my remote wire puts 12V to the amp, and the power wire brings 12v to the back. I checked the continuity on every wire from the amp to the front of the car and the ground to the ground.

I decided to check the remote wire by attaching the power directly to the remote. It kicks on! So I decided its probably the remote wire. I ran a new wire directly from the amp to the front and it does the same thing... doesn't work with a new wire! I am confused I thought maybe the amp is bad. I bought a brand new amp and the same thing happened, it works when I directly wire the power to the remote AND leave the remote wire plugged in, I have to have BOTH for it to work, if I remove the current remote wire (which has continuity to the front, but will not turn on the amps) and just have the wire from the remote to the power, it doesn't work at all again. I tried doing direct wire on the back of both amps but when I do, if the sub kicks too hard the speakers lose power completely. At a complete loss and really don't have the financials to take it into a shop unless last resort.

PLEASE help, any suggestions welcome.

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[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

Try wiring tova switched source other than the deck

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Do the toggle as stated above Along with a (30 Amp)relay.Your remote wire in the head unit is prob. no longer connected to your board within the HU

 

[Jdb0915]

Do the toggle as stated above Along with a (30 Amp)relay.Your remote wire in the head unit is prob. no longer connected to your board within the HU

Will try that out. One detail that may help as well is that the remote wire is not connected to the head unit directly. It's a 2006 g35 sedan, there is a fuse box by the feet on the driver's side, the remote wire goes directly from that fuse box (Appears to be wrapped around a fuse, I believe it is the cig lighter fuse) directly back to the amp.

Thanks in advance for the help guys, really appreciate it.

 

[Jdb0915]

Try wiring tova switched source other than the deck

Sorry not very good with car audio talk but if by deck you mean head unit, the remote wire is not wired into there. There is a fuse box by the left foot of the driver where the remote wire runs (appears to be wrapped around a fuse, I believe it is the cigarette lighter fuse) the remote wire runs directly from that fuse box to the amp, it does not go to the head unit. The car is a 2006 g35 sedan, don't know if this helps. The only thing that runs from the head unit is the stock sub which works perfectly fine and is the only thing that works.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

Ok if you got a stock sub. Then there’s a stock amp. If your using a loc for the new sub and amps. There is where your problem could be If the amps come on. But no sound. The stock amp can be causing problems. To fix this. You need to find the speaker wires behind the deck to tap the loc wires to

 

[Jdb0915]

Ok if you got a stock sub. Then there’s a stock amp. If your using a loc for the new sub and amps. There is where your problem could be If the amps come on. But no sound. The stock amp can be causing problems. To fix this. You need to find the speaker wires behind the deck to tap the loc wires to

So you are suggesting I splice the HU to where the LOC goes? I think there may be a problem with the LOC box, the ground for the LOC box is not connected to anything however it doesn’t appear that it ever was (it’s not crimped or anything). Also the amps do NOT turn on at all unless you direct wire remote to power. Should I look into getting a new LOC box?

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

So you are suggesting I splice the HU to where the LOC goes? I think there may be a problem with the LOC box, the ground for the LOC box is not connected to anything however it doesn’t appear that it ever was (it’s not crimped or anything). Also the amps do NOT turn on at all unless you direct wire remote to power. Should I look into getting a new LOC box?

he's saying tap into hu signal somewhere before the factory amp it could be in trunk idk that car..

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

So you are suggesting I splice the HU to where the LOC goes? I think there may be a problem with the LOC box, the ground for the LOC box is not connected to anything however it doesn’t appear that it ever was (it’s not crimped or anything). Also the amps do NOT turn on at all unless you direct wire remote to power. Should I look into getting a new LOC box?

The loc wires are usually just speaker leads unless you have a better one which will have power ground and remote wires I’d say yes a new one. And make sure all connections are good. Also tap in before the amp. Not after

 

[Jdb0915]

The loc wires are usually just speaker leads unless you have a better one which will have power ground and remote wires I’d say yes a new one. And make sure all connections are good. Also tap in before the amp. Not after

Okay cool, I will try this out tomorrow. If it doesn't work, any other potential solutions in mind that I could try while I'm out there?

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

WEll if you grounds and Power is good and it plays when you jump the power to the remote. This is the only thing it can be

 

[Jdb0915]

WEll if you grounds and Power is good and it plays when you jump the power to the remote. This is the only thing it can be

So just to clarify, you are suggesting I invest in a new LOC box and that should fix my problems?

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

And tap into the speaker wires from the back of the deck. Get one with a remote out to. Could be the source your using