planning a full build

[mat3833 10+ year member]

Ok, im probobly going into the military so i want to plan a full build for when i get back and get my bonus. the car will be a 2003 New Beetle Turbo S. i already know what speakers i will be using for highs and mids(Herz 3 way componant up front and herz 2 way componant in rear), the amp to run that i have no clue.

as for subs im going to go overkill and go with an 8 inch sealed, a 10 inch sealed, and then a 13.5 ported. as for sub choice i was thinking JL 8W1, 10W3 and either 13W7 or 13W6. im leaning towards the W6 as im more of a SQ person and the W6 sounds better to me. the subs will all be in a "seperate" enclosure but the enclosures wil be fiberglassed together into one enclosure to fit my trunk.

now on to amp choice. i have no clue what amp/amps to choose to get it all to work. id like to be able to set seperate crossovers and subsonic for each of the subs(not sure if there is a standalone crossover that can set subsonic, fill me in). i dont want to have to get a seperate amp for each sub as there will not be enough space in my trunk.

Im going to do an upgraded alternator, have all the wiring and such done by a local shop, and i am getting a capacitor, most likley a very large capacitor. HU is still under considearation as well so if you have any ideas throw them in as well.

also on a side note, if you have any subs that compare or surpass the JL subs for the same price or cheaper throw them in. however i do love JL and have always hade good luck with JL, even running the subs at more than double the RMS rating.

Matt

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[Matt2105 10+ year member]

Ok, im probobly going into the military so i want to plan a full build for when i get back and get my bonus. the car will be a 2003 New Beetle Turbo S. i already know what speakers i will be using for highs and mids(Herz 3 way componant up front and herz 2 way componant in rear), the amp to run that i have no clue.
as for subs im going to go overkill and go with an 8 inch sealed, a 10 inch sealed, and then a 13.5 ported. as for sub choice i was thinking JL 8W1, 10W3 and either 13W7 or 13W6. im leaning towards the W6 as im more of a SQ person and the W6 sounds better to me. the subs will all be in a "seperate" enclosure but the enclosures wil be fiberglassed together into one enclosure to fit my trunk.

now on to amp choice. i have no clue what amp/amps to choose to get it all to work. id like to be able to set seperate crossovers and subsonic for each of the subs(not sure if there is a standalone crossover that can set subsonic, fill me in). i dont want to have to get a seperate amp for each sub as there will not be enough space in my trunk.

Im going to do an upgraded alternator, have all the wiring and such done by a local shop, and i am getting a capacitor, most likley a very large capacitor. HU is still under considearation as well so if you have any ideas throw them in as well.

also on a side note, if you have any subs that compare or surpass the JL subs for the same price or cheaper throw them in. however i do love JL and have always hade good luck with JL, even running the subs at more than double the RMS rating.

Matt

Umm...NO!

 

[mat3833 10+ year member]

Ummmmm, why? ever seen a setup like that or even heard one? go find one and you will understand.

and also, instead of just saying no, why dont you add input and be productive??

Matt

 

[kentb 10+ year member]

whats your plan as far as the crossover point on those 3 subs?

 

[gangstajpimpin 10+ year member]

Congratulations on PROBABLY going into the military. You're lucky, otherwise you might have been flamed for putting this in the WRONG SECTION! Haha. Also, DON'T go with different sized subs. Bad stuff happens. If you listen to mostly rap music I would go with different component systems, as my Hertz HSK 165 set was AMAZING on everything but rap music...lol!

I would recommend a couple DD component sets or RE XXX comps. Amazing!

JL is, I believe, over priced. I would go with RE, DD, AQ, etc subwoofers, but thats just me!

Drop in the upgraded alternator and wire it all up yourself. It is easy and shops will **** you if you decide to go that route.

Have fun with your build and the military!!

 

[jadon087 10+ year member]

Ok, im probobly going into the military so i want to plan a full build for when i get back and get my bonus. the car will be a 2003 New Beetle Turbo S. i already know what speakers i will be using for highs and mids(Herz 3 way componant up front and herz 2 way componant in rear), the amp to run that i have no clue. as for subs im going to go overkill and go with an 8 inch sealed, a 10 inch sealed, and then a 13.5 ported. as for sub choice i was thinking JL 8W1, 10W3 and either 13W7 or 13W6. im leaning towards the W6 as im more of a SQ person and the W6 sounds better to me. the subs will all be in a "seperate" enclosure but the enclosures wil be fiberglassed together into one enclosure to fit my trunk.

now on to amp choice. i have no clue what amp/amps to choose to get it all to work. id like to be able to set seperate crossovers and subsonic for each of the subs(not sure if there is a standalone crossover that can set subsonic, fill me in). i dont want to have to get a seperate amp for each sub as there will not be enough space in my trunk.

Im going to do an upgraded alternator, have all the wiring and such done by a local shop, and i am getting a capacitor, most likley a very large capacitor. HU is still under considearation as well so if you have any ideas throw them in as well.

also on a side note, if you have any subs that compare or surpass the JL subs for the same price or cheaper throw them in. however i do love JL and have always hade good luck with JL, even running the subs at more than double the RMS rating.

Matt

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A. IT's hertz not herz

B. Do no mix subs choose one and do multiples of that

C.One enclosure will do you better than mutiple especially for sq

D. Atleast you know about upgrading your alt, but ditch the capacitor and go with a extra battery

 

[DB-Audio 10+ year member]

dont mix subs stick with one size/brand and use multiples of that you will be happier

 

[mat3833 10+ year member]

eh, i missed the **** "T" in hertz, kill me! lol

anyways, im going to respond in the order of the posts. crossovers i have no clue, i wanted to get the 8inch to get more midbass, the new beetle doors **** for midbass, i would basicly have to fiberglass the doors and make a new spot for the 6.5s to get any true midbass out of them. the 10 inch was more for the average bass, between 50Hz and say 120Hz and the 13.5 was for the low shit, below 50Hz. but i guess that all could be accomplished with one size/brand of sub.

as far as the extra batt goes, i honestly have no real place to put it. there is no extra room to put the battery. i can easily fit a 10Farad cap under the hood of the car beside the factory batt.

now that you guys have completly screwed my whole sub settup idea lets see what you guys would do! keep in mind that the new beetle has a small *** trunk.....

oh and as for the Her"T"z set, i do listen to rap but im mainly a rock person. i throw on rap when i want my chest to hurt, that and when i drive up next to the homies. lol

Matt

 

[Matt2105 10+ year member]

First, I wouldnt run JL, unless you just like overpaying.

Second, I'd get the biggest sub that will fit in the back whether it be a 10, 12, or 15. Since you say you want SQ, look into the SSA Icon and Xcon, Fi Q, and AA Havoc.

Third, Hertz comps are a good choice. If you NEEDmore midbass then try to fit an 8" speaker somewhere in the door, not an 8" sub. There's no point in running three different sized subs because subwoofers are all intended to play the same frequency range. Size doesnt dictate frequency.

Amp selection- cant go wrong with sundown audio, RD Audio, audioque, IA, etc...Just match the amp to the sub. The amp for the fronts would depend on if you're running your comps active or not.

Lastly, don't buy a capacitor. If you're going to spend the money, buy a battery. FIND somewhere to put it. Perhaps under the backseats. With a single sub setup, you should have room to add a battery.

 

[DNick454 10+ year member]

Mixing sub sizes is a no-no. They all have different transient responses and acoustic properties that will not sound good (and possibly add cancellation) when mixed together. If you're lacking mid-bass, it's probably because of your current speakers and head-unit power. Once you get a nice set of components and cross them over properly and amplify them, you will have more mid-bass then you know what to do with. As far as the subs go, pick 1 or 2 subs that you like and stick with them. Don't go mixing and matching. Subs to keep in mind: DD1508's They're nice and compact so they could fit in that beetle trunk easily but they will still get ridiculously loud.

Oh and one last comment. DITCH THE IDEA OF A CAPACITOR!!!!1111oneoneone

 

[spencer321 10+ year member]

2 things, #1 everyone is right you don't mix sub sizes, on top of that the midbass your refering to is directional unlike sub bass. so if you wanted to run custom kick panels with 8's crossed from say 80-250 as a dedicated midbass many SQ people do that, but you can just run one, your stage will be way the hell off

and #2 the only people who plan out systems with all JL subs have less than 200 posts lol good job being a statistic

 

[Supergumby5000 5,000+ posts]

Unless you plan on having a very complicated crossover system, using different sized sub's isnt going to benefit you at all. You would be +1 to just keep it simple and use one size of sub in a proper enclosure rather than trying to work a crossover system for multiple size drivers (otherwise you risk having a bit of cancellation)

 

[mat3833 10+ year member]

ok, so im nixing the diferent sized sub idea. i would like to go with either 2 10s or 2 12s. my GF is completly against going ported, however i want to go ported so thats what im doing.

now to explain my JL sub fix. i currently have a 10W0V2 rated at 300W RMS. i am putting over 900W through that sub and it is still going strong. it has been playing for over a year on and off but i have been feeding it the current dose of power for over 2 months. i broke the sub in on about 100W and after about 2 weeks of play time started feeding it more and more. im now at about 1000W and the shop i bought it from is loving it. i kno im voiding the warranty and all but i paid almoast nothing for the settup with intentions of upgrading soon.

now, talk to me about sub choice. i have maby 8 cubic feet of trunk space, and it is not square. i am going to have to have an enclosure made. i am a SQ person, but i like loud SQ. in the begining i was thinking one 13W6 in the trunk but decided against it due to space constraints. i want the most RELIABLE bang for my buck(which is why i choose JL, never had a single problem with any of my JL stuff).

i looked at the DD subs, they look good. but if im going to go dual 10" or 12" would it be better to step down to the 500 series?

as to the midbass problem its not a matter of the speakers i have now, or have had in the past. there is no room to put 8" drivers in the door. 6.5" is as large as i can go. the stock doors are 4" in a ported enclosure. they actually played lower than my 10" sub(which is very depressing). VW knew what they were doing when they designed the monsoon system. i just have to figure out how to improve it.

what is the benefit of going active crossover instead of passive? i read about them both and never really got a strait answer.

Matt

 

[plugitin 5,000+ posts]

JL isn't that great man...for the money you could get muuuch better. Why would your gf not want a ported box?

 

[mat3833 10+ year member]

idk why she doesnt want ported, something one of her friends told her i guess. but like i said, the setup will b ported.

anyways, back to the sub discussion. point me in the direction of some awesome subs 10" or 12" with an RMS of 500 or so. im not too good at looking around, allthe stats mean nothing to me except RMS and box size....

Matt