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Message: <blockquote data-quote="mat3833" data-source="post: 6289268" data-attributes="member: 587645">ok, so im nixing the diferent sized sub idea. i would like to go with either 2 10s or 2 12s. my GF is completly against going ported, however i want to go ported so thats what im doing.now to explain my JL sub fix. i currently have a 10W0V2 rated at 300W RMS. i am putting over 900W through that sub and it is still going strong. it has been playing for over a year on and off but i have been feeding it the current dose of power for over 2 months. i broke the sub in on about 100W and after about 2 weeks of play time started feeding it more and more. im now at about 1000W and the shop i bought it from is loving it. i kno im voiding the warranty and all but i paid almoast nothing for the settup with intentions of upgrading soon.now, talk to me about sub choice. i have maby 8 cubic feet of trunk space, and it is not square. i am going to have to have an enclosure made. i am a SQ person, but i like loud SQ. in the begining i was thinking one 13W6 in the trunk but decided against it due to space constraints. i want the most RELIABLE bang for my buck(which is why i choose JL, never had a single problem with any of my JL stuff).i looked at the DD subs, they look good. but if im going to go dual 10" or 12" would it be better to step down to the 500 series?as to the midbass problem its not a matter of the speakers i have now, or have had in the past. there is no room to put 8" drivers in the door. 6.5" is as large as i can go. the stock doors are 4" in a ported enclosure. they actually played lower than my 10" sub(which is very depressing). VW knew what they were doing when they designed the monsoon system. i just have to figure out how to improve it.what is the benefit of going active crossover instead of passive? i read about them both and never really got a strait answer.Matt</blockquote>

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