paintin a ZX amp

[basebalz13 10+ year member]

has anyone on here painted the front plate of a ZX amp, i got the 1000.1 and wanted to paint it the color of the car and dash so it matched good, its camillion paint so itd be hot if possible

Click to read more...

 

[2Tone 10+ year member]

im a painter.... ive done amps for justonemoreamp on ebay... cake

 

[UCF52 10+ year member]

im a painter.... ive done amps for justonemoreamp on ebay... cake

Care to share your process? I might consider painting a few ZX amps in the future.

 

[2Tone 10+ year member]

Care to share your process? I might consider painting a few ZX amps in the future.

if it already has paint on it then you can just use a grety scuff pad with some comet and warm water to scuff the surface... ill use something called dx101 which is prep and plend and its 15 bucks a tube... after scuffing , wash the part(s), and hang and dry... use a blow gun to really get the nooks and cranys... after its dry wipe down with a high quality paper towel (shop rags in the yellow box at your auto parts store), using a wax and grease remover such as ppg's dx320... do not use a oven or grill cleaner.... NOW THIS IS UP TO YOU... if you have chips or scratches then prime and repeat the above..if primed, wet sand with nothing less than a 600 wetsand paper.....

after area has been wetsanded and scuffed, cleaned and is ready and dirt free, we are ready to spray our color... if your doing this in a home garage, take a moment to plan , WHAT IS THE TEMPERATURE NOW?.. when using a base/clear , you have to reduce the color that you buy from the bodyshop supplier, this means adding a thinner to it called reducer.. they make it for different temps so it will dry properly such as dt870,dt885,dt895... if its 95 out side and you spray 870, it will dry instantly , but if its a large area your doing then it may look blotchy due to it not being able to let the metallics lay down... 870 is for cooler temps and 895 its for hotter temps .... usually its cut with the color 1;1, or 1.5;1 depending on what you buy... after spraying with a spray gun(gun should have no bigger that a 1.4 tip,you can run the needle wide open and set the air pressure at about 40 at the wall... use a regulator at the end of the gun, it should read about 18-20 pli with the trigger completely pulled...spray 8-10 inches away from surface.. paint shouldnt go on wet , should look kinda dry).)after spraying let stand for 15 to 20 minutes to be safe... have a tach cloth on hand to gently wipe the parts down of any dust or dirt , recoat if necc, watch for see threw , blotchyness,make sure colors even... after colors done, clean the **** gun goooood, or have a seperate one just for clear...

clearing is a fine art and with practice you can make a lot of money... for amps and stuff, ill use a cheaper clear like omni brand... there are different hardners here too... this clear is 2;1 and with amps being small, you could go ahead and use a fast hardner if you wish... after mixing add a drop or 2 of fisheye eliminator, because i know your garages are full of tire shine... too much fisheye eliminator will cause the clear to dieback and look like satin.. only a drop or 2 is neccesary.... wipe down part for the last time... bump the air pressure up to about 21lbs at the regulator and turn the needle adjustment 2-2.5 complete turns in...( im giving you a ballpark but this should be fine....) dust the entire part with a quick dry spray coat first and wait about 5 minutes.... if there is an area thats wet with clear, such as the stand or cardboard that your spraying on, touch the wetness and see what its like... when its ready for coat number 2 , it should be less tacky than masking tape.... dust the part completely again, this time a lil slower with a 50/50 overlap... dont try to get it wet as heck just yet... it will all melt together with coats, if you get it soaked with clear there is a 90 percent chance you will run it...

JUST REMEMBER 18-21LBS AT THE GUN WITH TRIGGER PULLED, 2 TURNS NEEDLE CHOKED IN WITH A 1.4 TIP... WAIT FOR COATS TO BE LESS TACKY THAN MASKING TAPE, AT DONT SOAK IT AND KEEP THE GUN MOVING AT ALL TMES 8-10 INCHES AWAY... IT WILL LOOK LIKE SHIT AT FIRST BUT EVERYTHING WILL MELT TOGETHER IF YOU FOLLOW THESE STEPS... DONT RUSH... IF THERE IS A RUN , AFTER ITS DRY YOU CAN WETSAND WITH 2000 AND BUFF... if you do it right , it should be flat like this

 

[basebalz13 10+ year member]

well what i was tryin to get at was askin what is the negatives to paintin the amp i no itll run a lil hotter but will it make much of a difference, i own a body shop and i only use ppg products, itll actually be painted magenta to gold camillion if i decide to do it, its to match the dash and outside of the car

 

[tommyk90 5,000+ posts]

Only problem I could forsee with painting a ZX series amp is dealing with the textured finish that is on them. That stuff is pretty tough and would not make a good surface to paint.

You would probably have to take it down to bare metal in order to get a good finish.

 

[UCF52 10+ year member]

Wow, that's a detailed process. I might just stick with the factory color scheme. I do appreciate the information though!

 

[2Tone 10+ year member]

well what i was tryin to get at was askin what is the negatives to paintin the amp i no itll run a lil hotter but will it make much of a difference, i own a body shop and i only use ppg products, itll actually be painted magenta to gold camillion if i decide to do it, its to match the dash and outside of the car

heres a question sense you own a body shop... do you think it would run hotter when the paint your putting on it is no thicker than the powder coat thats on it? whats thicker and heavier? giving that the parts are bead blasted to bare metal... do you think a couple degrees is really going to matter on your application? how bout a better spot to mount? ahh never mind... i already wasted my finger tip strength when i wrote "how to fricken paint " for nothing... thanks idiot

 

[Polecat 5,000+ posts]

heres a question sense you own a body shop... do you think it would run hotter when the paint your putting on it is no thicker than the powder coat thats on it? whats thicker and heavier? giving that the parts are bead blasted to bare metal... do you think a couple degrees is really going to matter on your application? how bout a better spot to mount? ahh never mind... i already wasted my finger tip strength when i wrote "how to fricken paint " for nothing... thanks idiot

if you don't have the patience to offer advise, without getting upset, easy.............................don't.

Then use your 'finger strength' to hit big red X up right corner.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[2Tone 10+ year member]

if you don't have the patience to offer advise, without getting upset, easy.............................don't.Then use your 'finger strength' to hit big red X up right corner.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

im not upset... retard owns bodyshop.. maybe he should of been more specific... use your head

 

[Polecat 5,000+ posts]

im not upset... retard owns bodyshop.. maybe he should of been more specific... use your head

basebalz13 didn't ask for a detailed explanation, UCF52 did.

Care to share your process? I might consider painting a few ZX amps in the future

yet you called basebalz13 the idiot.......use your eyes! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

 

[UCF52 10+ year member]

heres a question sense you own a body shop... do you think it would run hotter when the paint your putting on it is no thicker than the powder coat thats on it? whats thicker and heavier? giving that the parts are bead blasted to bare metal... do you think a couple degrees is really going to matter on your application? how bout a better spot to mount? ahh never mind... i already wasted my finger tip strength when i wrote "how to fricken paint " for nothing... thanks idiot

It wasn't a waste... Like Polecat said, I was the one who asked for the detailed explanation and I do appreciate it. I actually have it saved in a word document for future reference. I just wasn't anticipating a very long and detailed process, although I should have. Once again I do appreciate the time you took to explain the process.

 

[Polecat 5,000+ posts]

very mature of you ^^^^^ too bad others can't be as mature //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[UCF52 10+ year member]

too bad others can't be as mature //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Yea, maybe he just got the two responses mixed up.

very mature of you ^^^^^

Thank you for the kind words.

Btw - I may have some questions for you in the future regarding some Kicker products.

 

[basebalz13 10+ year member]

thanks polecat 4 stickin up i didnt even see all that, your a realli cool guy man, hey did you see my build log