One JL 10W1v2 or two 8W3v2 subs?

srunr04
10+ year member

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I'm in a dillema right now and can't decide which of those subs I should use. They're going in a Tacoma xcab('04) and am not sure which would have more output ... the single 10 or the two 8's.

The 10 will be going in the rear storage compartment(passenger side) and if I use the 8's, one will go where the 10 would be and the other will go in the other storage compartment(driver's side). I don't have much room so that's why I'm choosing these subs which have a mounting depth around 4.34".

 
What do you throw in the back seat on a regular basis that keeps you from using some of that area? One of our demo vehicles is an 05 access cab Taco. It has the two under seat storage bins that are not very large either. After a little debate, we decided to break out the tried and true "removable system" option. The amps and (4) BatCap 400's are in the pockets now with near infinite subwoofer possibilities. One is a downfiring 10" and is ported to the driver side and sits about 4" from the driver side rear door panel. This system keeps 1/2 of the rear seat utility intact. The enclosure also has two handles built into the top that make it just that much easier to remove, which is a concept we share with our truck owning customers. Most love the idea since it's a simple alternative to the stoich idea that all things have to be permanent. Another is a large dual 15" ported enclosure with a Z1 strapped to it that takes 2 people to load and unload. This can, however, be done without scratching any panels. The two fifteens represent the more eccentric possibilities of a removable system.

If you can get pics of the rear of your pickup, that would be great. I can't seem to remember the seating arrangement in the back of the 95.5-2004 tacos of that cab configuration, sorry.

 
LoudCrownVic: I just may go that route ... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsup.gif.3287b36ca96645a13a43aff531f37f02.gif

Vere,

I'm going for a stealth look. Yes I could do a removable system like what you're describing but I choose not to. It's just the way how I like installing my components. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif Here are a few pics of what I'm going to do ...

First pic is from a member at Car/Sound Domain, two 8" Kickers, passenger side is .66^3ft and the driver's side is .45^3ft. I have no idea why that person installed them in two different sized enclosures. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

Davessubinstall.jpg


Next 3 pics are from a member at TTORA, one 10" Infinity sub with about .71^3ft.

jessevicsubinstall1.jpg


jessevicsubinstall2.jpg


jessevicsubinstall3.jpg


 
Well they both will reinforce one another, just the smaller enclosure won't extend quite as low as the other will and on the high side, the smaller box will be boomier than the other, but it's not as though they are fighting one another as long as they are in phase. I'd recommend the single 10" in that .66 enclosure since you are going with the W1. The two 8's will have a little more impact but they'll be a little boomier than the 10" will too. Again, since they don't fight one another, you can also run a 10W1 in the larger enclosure and an 8W0 in the small side. Food for thought. The price difference between the two 8's and one 10 + one 8 is not much at all. Match the impedances with your amp by giving the 10 more power and you should be a-o-tay.

 
The two subs in two different enclosures will sound like trash because of the differing group delay because of the significantly different sized enclosures. They are different alignments and therefore may as well be different subs altogether.

Because of different group delays it also won't sound good to mix subs. The bass will end up muddy and there will be cancellation.

 
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srunr04

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