One 12" to fufill my needs

[fixinit]

will have to do the big 3 upgrade.
But yeah man just two 12s in a sealed or a single 15 in a sealed. It will be around half your current box size. Off your JBL amp, it should sound decent.

Heck, just buy a sealed box for your Cerwin vegas like I ORIGINALLY STATED IN THE OTHER THREAD YOU STARTED.... those cerwin vegas were not meant to be in ported.

A big 3 upgrade for a $199 2 Ohm 1255W @ 14.2v amp? Keep your stock wiring in the GTO. Two 12s in a sealed would be interesting, and I agree. Keep the Cerwin Vegas and decide to run one in a ported, or 2 in a sealed. Jeffdachef, do you know the model # for those Vegas? I'm interesting in the specs if slm9s doesn't know.

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

Boy, I was all ready to buy that 12" CAB with that CAB amp and build that box. Now you guys have me wondering if I wouldn't be better off just buying a lesser 12" sub and put it in a sealed box with my current amp. Its listed as 750 watts at 2 ohms, but I assume its a little lower.
I'm not looking for 'makes it hard to breathe' bass, just some really nice clean bass that will still allow me to free up some trunk space.

No one ever answered whether the CAB amp would be fine with my stock battery and alternator???

if u go sealed and or just wanta try your amp on 1 sub get pioneer 3003 and try it sealed then ported box (be lot smaller than u have) and it'll do very well on 700rms (mine only gets 500) and it's $70 on ebay so if u don't like it u ain't out much or if u want another just get sealed box for 2 with bigger 1 ohm stable amp.. and yeah cab amp would require some wire upgrades

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

A big 3 upgrade for a $199 2 Ohm 1255W @ 14.2v amp? Keep your stock wiring in the GTO. Two 12s in a sealed would be interesting, and I agree. Keep the Cerwin Vegas and decide to run one in a ported, or 2 in a sealed. Jeffdachef, do you know the model # for those Vegas? I'm interesting in the specs if slm9s doesn't know.

big 3 upgrade helps any system and you do realize that you arent removing any stock wire right its all just adding on bigger wire. If he was gonna get the CAB 1600.1 amp he'd be running it at 1 ohm. so yes big 3 is necessary.

you said in the PM, he's asking for trouble if he does the big 3? really man? lol

 

[fixinit]

big 3 upgrade helps any system and you do realize that you arent removing any stock wire right its all just adding on bigger wire. If he was gonna get the CAB 1600.1 amp he'd be running it at 1 ohm. so yes big 3 is necessary.
you said in the PM, he's asking for trouble if he does the big 3? really man? lol

I'm taking into considering the age of the vehicle and the notion that he wants to keep his entire electrical system up to par for many more years. Messing with original manufacturer wiring at the engine, battery and drive line, even when adding as part of, is completely unnecessary unless you're running monstrous amounts of added-on accessories, etc that will ultimately bog down the vehicle's performance. The big 3 upgrade should be an after thought in this case if the OP plans on buying the CAB, then realizes his lights are dimming and battery isn't charging sufficiently.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

you are making it seem like its harmful... its just adding on bigger grounds and thicker wire, there's nothing "messing around" about it. always been a good thing to do even if you dont even run a big amplifier setup. better power delivery, lower resistance and a healthier electrical system benefits any car, especially older cars with corroding grounds.

Anyone approaching 1500 rms would greatly benefit from a big 3 upgrade let alone 1500 rms +






@Boomin_tahoe lol

 

[fixinit]

you are making it seem like its harmful... its just adding on bigger grounds and thicker wire, there's nothing "messing around" about it. always been a good thing to do even if you dont even run a big amplifier setup. better power delivery, lower resistance and a healthier electrical system benefits any car, especially older cars with corroding grounds.
Anyone approaching 1500 rms would greatly benefit from a big 3 upgrade let alone 1500 rms +

In theory it makes sense. But when it comes to quality and the way the vehicle was electrically engineered, do the manufacturer wigs think to themselves hmm, we could have just contracted with Knu and made our electrical system essentially touch-free for future upgrades?

I checked out the amp's dyno test on youtube and it rang on spec under 14.4v. 1/0 was powered and grounded. It seems too good to be true, but seriously. The OP wanted better sound quality. Not a new frame replacement. The big 3 isn't worth the risk and money until the amp is setup. By the way, Jeff. Do you know anyone with a vehicle who did the big 3 and has put over 100k driving time miles on their vehicle without electrical problems? Just curious and not confrontational.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

In theory it makes sense. But when it comes to quality and the way the vehicle was electrically engineered, do the manufacturer wigs think to themselves hmm, we could have just contracted with Knu and made our electrical system essentially touch-free for future upgrades?
I checked out the amp's dyno test on youtube and it rang on spec under 14.4v. 1/0 was powered and grounded. It seems too good to be true, but seriously. The OP wanted better sound quality. Not a new frame replacement. The big 3 isn't worth the risk and money until the amp is setup. By the way, Jeff. Do you know anyone with a vehicle who did the big 3 and has put over 100k driving time miles on their vehicle without electrical problems? Just curious and not confrontational.

most of the people on this forum. There's no risk.

Manufacturers just do the bare minimal to handle current vehicle demands, nothing more its all about keeping production costs low, they dont give a rat's @ss about upgrades or if the customer will upgrade. Hence why its STOCK. however that wire corrodes after time and there's been plenty of cases where people have electrical issues and its related to poor grounds thats been SOLVED by doing the big 3. Not just audio, racing, normal daily driving for longevity, low riding, show cars EVERYWHERE, you'll see big 3 only benefits NEVER harms. I dont know where you got the idea it would be harmful to the vehicle from but thats just flat out wrong and misinformed.

That CAB amp is a solid performer and is proven. more power brings more cone control and dynamic head for when the music calls for it, its not gonna clip and distort. Clean overhead power is always a plus in a properly designed sound system vs an amp close to clipping at 110% workload every day. compared to an amp barely lifting a finger. The bigger amp will both sound better and last longer.

 

[fixinit]

most of the people on this forum. There's no risk.
Manufacturers just do the bare minimal to handle current vehicle demands, nothing more its all about keeping production costs low. however that wire corrodes after time and there's been plenty of cases where people have electrical issues and its related to poor grounds thats been SOLVED by doing the big 3. Not just audio, racing, normal daily driving, EVERYWHERE you see big 3 only benefits NEVER harms. I dont know where you got the idea it would be harmful to the vehicle from but thats just flat out wrong and misinformed.

That CAB amp is a solid performer and is proven. more power brings more cone control and dynamic head for when the music calls for it, its not gonna clip and distort. Clean overhead power is always a plus in a properly designed sound system vs an amp close to clipping at 110% workload every day. compared to an amp barely lifting a finger. The bigger amp will both sound better and last longer.

Agree with the amp. It looks like a ****** and even the inners look well designed. I wonder what the longevity is with most users who've been running it.

Manufacturers leave a lot of leeway (or at least used to), with their electrical system setup. For example, the majority of my car's life was pounded in the salt belt, us, and although wiring insulation has seen better days, most OE connections have lasted to my 315k mi. mark as of yesterday. I've done a lot of reading on wiring upgrades (mostly from the battery and battery to engine block grounding, etc), and for some unexplained reason, there's no fraying or excited corrosion that influenced any detriment to my stock wiring. So really, why would you fix or upgrade something that already works? And if you say for fun and experience, than I would too.

That's really good to hear about most of the people on this forum doing the big 3 after 100k miles driven without any electrical issues associated with that add-on. I've thought about it.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Agree with the amp. It looks like a ****** and even the inners look well designed. I wonder what the longevity is with most users who've been running it.
Manufacturers leave a lot of leeway (or at least used to), with their electrical system setup. For example, the majority of my car's life was pounded in the salt belt, us, and although wiring insulation has seen better days, most OE connections have lasted to my 315k mi. mark as of yesterday. I've done a lot of reading on wiring upgrades (mostly from the battery and battery to engine block grounding, etc), and for some unexplained reason, there's no fraying or excited corrosion that influenced any detriment to my stock wiring. So really, why would you fix or upgrade something that already works? And if you say for fun and experience, than I would too.

That's really good to hear about most of the people on this forum doing the big 3 after 100k miles driven without any electrical issues associated with that add-on. I've thought about it.

Big straw little straw. Which will have the least resistance? It's not this forum it's everybody that knows how to add aftermarket equipment. Even people that build high power engines do it.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

its literally common industry(multiple industries) knowledge that you are trying to argue against.

cant be talking about the CAB amp's reliability when you run a power acoustik amp bud. You havent been around the competition scene long enough if you dont know about cab amps.

there's a lot of catching up for you to do man for whats going on nowadays.

 

[fixinit]

its literally common industry(multiple industries) knowledge that you are trying to argue against.
cant be talking about the CAB amp's reliability when you run a power acoustik amp bud. You havent been around the competition scene long enough if you dont know about cab amps.

there's a lot of catching up for you to do man for whats going on nowadays.

I take pride in my 2009 Power Acoustik amp because after I heckled for it for free, realized it didn't work, tore it apart, visually and physically tested it for weeks, then got it running after de-soldering then soldering a few broken components purchased directly from PA, it's running like a champion.

Not the best amp, but it's clean cool and powerful for $12.99.

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

Amazon's doing a deal on the PA Mofo-124x for $83 right now and I can attest to it being quite the banger even in my 1.87cu prefab. However, the higher lows are muddy which I've learned from someone on this site being related to my smaller than spec enclosure. Might be worth reading reviews on it. Also, If you ever want upgrade your amp and go even louder, the 124x would be able to handle the pain and shake your trunk apart if you're feeling cheeky. I'll take a listen to Starboy in a bit and see how the SQ sounds then get back to you if you're interested.
Don't ding me for throwing a Power Acoustik option out there, audiophiles //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

The mofo's and the a3000db are my fav low budget items. I'll show some love for PA

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

have beat the hell out of some a3000db's.

 

[fixinit]

The mofo's and the a3000db are my fav low budget items. I'll show some love for PA

Except not the mofos. The Mofo 124x. Their BAM and mofo 122 can **** it. But dang, you had a 3000D back in the day? you dog

 

[BMayes36]

In theory it makes sense. But when it comes to quality and the way the vehicle was electrically engineered, do the manufacturer wigs think to themselves hmm, we could have just contracted with Knu and made our electrical system essentially touch-free for future upgrades?
I checked out the amp's dyno test on youtube and it rang on spec under 14.4v. 1/0 was powered and grounded. It seems too good to be true, but seriously. The OP wanted better sound quality. Not a new frame replacement. The big 3 isn't worth the risk and money until the amp is setup. By the way, Jeff. Do you know anyone with a vehicle who did the big 3 and has put over 100k driving time miles on their vehicle without electrical problems? Just curious and not confrontational.

Agree with the amp. It looks like a ****** and even the inners look well designed. I wonder what the longevity is with most users who've been running it.
Manufacturers leave a lot of leeway (or at least used to), with their electrical system setup. For example, the majority of my car's life was pounded in the salt belt, us, and although wiring insulation has seen better days, most OE connections have lasted to my 315k mi. mark as of yesterday. I've done a lot of reading on wiring upgrades (mostly from the battery and battery to engine block grounding, etc), and for some unexplained reason, there's no fraying or excited corrosion that influenced any detriment to my stock wiring. So really, why would you fix or upgrade something that already works? And if you say for fun and experience, than I would too.

That's really good to hear about most of the people on this forum doing the big 3 after 100k miles driven without any electrical issues associated with that add-on. I've thought about it.

You opinion is incorrect or you have been horribly misinformed.