One 12 or Two 12's

[CannMann21 10+ year member]

how about a 12" DC level 3? heard these things hit hard with decent sq, anyone know?

DD's are expensive and i dont really wanna go used.

 

[Vossy 10+ year member]

DC's are nice, I believe lvl 3s are more sealed box orientated.

Look into TC for sexy woofs too

 

[09civic 5,000+ posts]

how about a 12" DC level 3? heard these things hit hard with decent sq, anyone know?
DD's are expensive and i dont really wanna go used.

DC makes great subs. wont be dissapointed with them

 

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

how about a 12" DC level 3? heard these things hit hard with decent sq, anyone know?
DD's are expensive and i dont really wanna go used.

I would look around a bit more before just go buying a sub though. DD cost more for a reason, trust me on that. AQ is a great option if you will do a nice ported enclosure. There is also SSA, Sundown, and many many others out there.

 

[retrojordans 10+ year member]

he has aq1200d
I say run both at 2ohm...down the line if you upgrade your electrical, run it at .5

I think an AQ 1200 @ .5 ohm with box rise will probably be around 1.5 ohms, putting out probably in the ballpark of 1k...Why would he need to upgrade any electrical for a 1,000 watt amp...I mean yea decent wire from the battery to the amp...

Why do people talk out of their asses? It isn't a 4500 watt amp @ .5 ohm here .... I lol so much on this site.

 

[retrojordans 10+ year member]

yeah see prelude trunks arent the biggest around. i couldnt find any dimensions on the internet so i dont know what can fit and what cant. i also dont know how big the box would be if i went with 2 ported or anything like that. if i try to stuff 2 back there, would i sacrifice something sound or power wise because of lack of air?

YES a ported box that takes up basically the whole trunk is like putting a ported box into a sealed box...The trunk will load (pressurize) and you will lose the desired characteristics of the ported box. To fix this just port the trunk into the cabin of the car, how you do that is up to you.

 

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

I think an AQ 1200 @ .5 ohm with box rise will probably be around 1.5 ohms, putting out probably in the ballpark of 1k...Why would he need to upgrade any electrical for a 1,000 watt amp...I mean yea decent wire from the battery to the amp...
Why do people talk out of their asses? It isn't a 4500 watt amp @ .5 ohm here .... I lol so much on this site.

General rule is 75amps per 1000rms so if you want to do it the right way. Yes he should upgrade. The 1200 is also known to be under rated and box rise can be anything from .05 to what ever. Each setup is different and will require different things to make them work.

 

[retrojordans 10+ year member]

General rule is 75amps per 1000rms so if you want to do it the right way. Yes he should upgrade. The 1200 is also known to be under rated and box rise can be anything from .05 to what ever. Each setup is different and will require different things to make them work.

Lol you throw around this word "upgrade" what are you talking about...A high output alternator for a 1000 watt amp WRONG! ....Tons of people run 1000 watt rms amps on completely stock systems with absolutely no issues and that includes compact cars with 70 amp alts....If a 1000 watt amp requires "75 amps" as you claim those car's -- with 70 amp alternators -- systems would be running almost completely on battery power...And that just isn't the case you are just flat out wrong.

1000 x 2 to incorporate an inherent amp efficiency of 50% (which is overcompensating) = 2000 / 13.8v (average alternator output voltage) = 144 / 3 because music will not be constantly drawing 1000 watts like a burp or test tone = 48....And that's with a hypathetical 50% effieciency...some amps run @ 90%...

He won't need to upgrade a **** thing with that amp on any ohm load..

 

[Team TH (Donny) 10+ year member]

I would go ported, for you do want to out perform (I'm guessing be "louder"..) that person with the kickers at your school.. For those subs I think you could get by with putting both subs in your truck, though most likely with your limited space in trunk size I would not expect you to have any or much room left for cargo item space for (Once again, most likely..) would need as much area in trunk to reach you optimal sub output. Also, later on you can always add a "bigger" amp/upgraded electrical to become "louder" within your subs RMS capabilities.

 

[retrojordans 10+ year member]

General rule is 75amps per 1000rms so if you want to do it the right way. Yes he should upgrade. The 1200 is also known to be under rated and box rise can be anything from .05 to what ever. Each setup is different and will require different things to make them work.

And no usually impedance rise on these types of setups is like 2-3 times the initial wired in ohm load...e.g. sub wired to 1 ohm ... amp's ohm load after rise = 2.8 ohms...

 

[matt.u 10+ year member]

do the big 3 in 1/0 and run the amp at .5 just watch your voltage. i ran both of my aq2200d's at 1 ohm strapped daily they never got hot.

 

[retrojordans 10+ year member]

do the big 3 in 1/0 and run the amp at .5 just watch your voltage. i ran both of my aq2200d's at 1 ohm strapped daily they never got hot.

My god you have no business telling him what to do with his expensive equipment man be real...You do not know what Alternator he is running, his battery, anything....Wow...

A 95 amp alt is not going to charge a 20ah battery any faster with 0 gauge than it would with 8 gauge..

If his am,................god this isn't even worth typing anymore about..im ******* otu of here jesus christ..

 

[Team TH (Donny) 10+ year member]

And no usually impedance rise on these types of setups is like 2-3 times the initial wired in ohm load...e.g. sub wired to 1 ohm ... amp's ohm load after rise = 2.8 ohms...

Well, yes and no... Impedance rise is variable between impedance load and box design (With a couple more variables as well..). Typically, you would perhaps see 2-3 times the initial wired impedance load but it varies on box design, so you can do much less than 2-3 times the initial wired impedance load or more. ALSO, testing the impedance rise varies upon the test frequency used (Impedance rise will vary using different test frequencies..). In most cases people use 50 Hz to generally test amp wattage output and impedance rise.

 

[Team TH (Donny) 10+ year member]

A 95 amp alt is not going to charge a 20ah battery any faster with 0 gauge than it would with 8 gauge..

Hmm.. Just being realistic, you are saying there is no difference in 0 gauge and 8 gauge wire? So running running 0 gauge wire won't decrease resistance in between the alternator and battery? Because in general, decreasing resistance will allow for/result in higher current flow (Rather it be slightly or significantly..).

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Amplifier efficiency at full tilt is more like 80% than 50%. And that's for both class A/B and class D, contrary to popular belief. Its at lower power levels that class D's are more efficient than A/B's.