OH MY GOSH... second set of Seas Tweets blown...

Phlipbak
10+ year member

CA Enthusiast
WTH... Ok... I had a pair of Seas Tweets 27TAFNC/G, a button on my amp that sent low freqs to all speakers was pressed when I hooked up the first set and they blew, obviously lol..

Well, the second set ran fine for months by setting the gain by ear.. well, I went to adjust them with the DMM, and I had a CD with a 7khz tone that lasted 15 seconds playing.. well, I was turning the gain up (trying to set the voltage to 18.7 which is 88 watts on 4 ohm speakers) and they stopped playing. They won't even make noise, the old pair I had made noise but they sounded TERRIBLE like they were farting because they were blown, but the new set just STOPPED now..

WTH?! How did these blow? They were crossed at 3.2khz at 12db/oct and played fine!!!! The only thing I could think of was when the 15sec tone would start over it would pop, but that was NOT when the tweeters stopped, it was while I was turning gain up in the middle of the tone!!

AHH!!! I ordered my third pair..

ADVICE PLEASE!!

Trevor

EDIT:: Forgot this, but while I was turning the gain up (dunno if it was before or after they stopped, because I thought it was just my earplugged ears messing with me when they stopped so I kept adjusting) in SUPER small increments it jumped from 18.0ish to 19.5 or 20 so I turned it back down real quick, but even then, assuming that SOMEHOW blew them, that's only like 90-105 watts and these can handle 220 WATT BURPS.. wtf..

 
WTH... Ok... I had a pair of Seas Tweets 27TAFNC/G, a button on my amp that sent low freqs to all speakers was pressed when I hooked up the first set and they blew, obviously lol..
Well, the second set ran fine for months by setting the gain by ear.. well, I went to adjust them with the DMM, and I had a CD with a 7khz tone that lasted 15 seconds playing.. well, I was turning the gain up (trying to set the voltage to 18.7 which is 88 watts on 4 ohm speakers) and they stopped playing. They won't even make noise, the old pair I had made noise but they sounded TERRIBLE like they were farting because they were blown, but the new set just STOPPED now..

WTH?! How did these blow? They were crossed at 3.2khz at 12db/oct and played fine!!!! The only thing I could think of was when the 15sec tone would start over it would pop, but that was NOT when the tweeters stopped, it was while I was turning gain up in the middle of the tone!!

AHH!!! I ordered my third pair..

ADVICE PLEASE!!

Trevor

EDIT:: Forgot this, but while I was turning the gain up (dunno if it was before or after they stopped, because I thought it was just my earplugged ears messing with me when they stopped so I kept adjusting) in SUPER small increments it jumped from 18.0ish to 19.5 or 20 so I turned it back down real quick, but even then, assuming that SOMEHOW blew them, that's only like 90-105 watts and these can handle 220 WATT BURPS.. wtf..

You caused mechanical damage to the first set, thermal damage to this new set.

You did probably one of the two most abusive things you can do to a speaker. It's not the first time I or others on here have heard of this happening. Next time leave them unhooked or use resistors. Sending a flat, amplified, max volume test tone to your speakers for more than a second or two will fry them in short order. Other people here have done it. I almost did it with my last set of components when I didn't really know what I was doing and I read on some retard's tutorial on the net that it's fine to just play flat 0db tones at max volume and listen for the audible tone change to set gains. Luckily I stopped right when they started to stink and they cooled off then played fine for 3 years before I upgraded.

If you're getting warranty replacements you are the kind of customer I would hate.

 
Sorry for the double post my computer's acting up and I didn't think the first one took so I rewrote it. Ive been getting into this and learning as Ive gone for about 6 years now. I am not an expert and I recognize what I know or understand and what I have yet to learn. Anyone will tell you, I've posted my share of 'newbie-ish' questions on here.

This is advice coming from a guy who has never ever ever blown a speaker or damaged any of my other equipment in six years, and have never had to replace anything due to user error, going to a guy who just blew two pairs of tweets and doesn't seem to understand why the second time is also his fault. Take it for what its worth or ignore it and keep replacing tweeters. I don't really care.

In all honesty I don't bother with resistors, I set gains with speakers unhooked and as long as everything sounds fine I don't worry about it. So far at least on my mid/high amp with the dmm method and speakers unhooked the gain dial always ends up at the marking for the voltage output for my Alpine HU indicating I can't be that far off.

 
You have like 200 posts... unless this is a new account I wouldn't act like a guru hoss...
But thanks for the advice...

Any others?


Post count doesn't mean much on the internet, buddy.

What he said was 100% true, and with the attitude you seem to possess, you're the kind of customer that I would hate, as well.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 
Guys chill lol..

eharri3 I didn't mean to come off as rude lol it was more of a playful joke than anything that's why I said hoss..out of habit, sorry haha.. and that's why I said thanks for the advice...

Anyways, I'm not a bad customer by any means, I have bought three sets of the same product so I'm obviously a good enough customer to realize it's my fault and not to blame it on SEAS' construction or anything..

So wait, how would it read the correct voltage though if no speakers were connected (no ohm load I mean..), and is there any other way to do this? I was told by multiple people on the forums to do it exactly like this, I'm not an idiot..

 
Well you should out whoever told you to play those tones through your tweeters. In all honesty I don't know the difference between measurements with resistance or no resistance. I have heard everything ranging from it being a big difference to a negligible one to nonexistent depending on the design of the amp. Never seen actual comparisons of one vs. the other. Maybe you could try an experiment: Do it with the speakers unhooked, with and without resistors, and see what you get. I believe gain tutorial on this site says to unhook the speakers and makes no mention of resistors.

 
you burped your tweeter:laugh://content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/hilarious.gif.02a037aad04aa96f19982b298a3d70a8.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rotflol.gif.b453361716769b8110ddefc85ff03cd2.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/hilarious.gif.02a037aad04aa96f19982b298a3d70a8.gif

I'm sorry, that was funny!

 
And can you explain this a little more, I'm a bit confused, sorry lol...
Your amp should be set up to deliver its max performance when your head unit is making its maximum undistorted voltage output. Theoretically if you have a 4 volt head unit you should be able to turn your amp's input sensitivity dial to 4 volts and be done with it. In reality the amp being under/over rated and the head unit being under/over rated along with issues of gain overlap and power overhead mean going by the numbers on the dial is never an ideal way to set gains. But My Alpine HU is 4 volts. When I set using the DMM method the gain dial ends up at exactly 4 volts. The sub amp is a different matter though as I believe my sub pre outs, like on some other ALpine HUs, may not be putting out anything closed to the advertised rating so my gains ended up at about 1-1.5 volts.

 
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Phlipbak

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