Not Sure???

[smudjs2000]

I just installed my jl 500/1 in my 2001 Acura 3.2CL still using my stock H/U (Bose) with a hi/lo converter and It sounds great .... till you reach a certain volume my sub just stops(1 kicker L7 12 inch) the amp stays on and doesn't give any warning light until I lower the volume than it comes back. also im using a 2.0 farad cap w a digital readout and the volts seem to be fine not sure .....The system was working fine in my last car also stock H/u with Bose.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

Click to read more...

 

[Blinkrazy 10+ year member]

gains on loc or amp gain?

 

[ctmike 10+ year member]

try lowering the gain some.

 

[smudjs2000]

gains on loc or amp gain?

Amp gain...

 

[jrwalte 10+ year member]

It could be a low voltage issue that is causing your amp to turn off. If the ground point at your amp isn't good enough (too much resistance between the battery and the amp) it'll work at lower volumes and the voltage will even look good. But once you pass that certain point of power the ground can't handle the current and you have big (quick) voltage drops that a volt meter wouldn't completely detect. You may see it dip in the 12s when you know it should stay in the 13s.

If you search here you'll see how you can take a DMM and test the ohm resistance between the battery negative and the ground spot at your amp. Or just try picking another spot to ground.

Where exactly is your current ground and what steps did you take to prep/install the ground wire? Also, what gauge is the ground and power wire and have you done the big three?

 

[smudjs2000]

It could be a low voltage issue that is causing your amp to turn off. If the ground point at your amp isn't good enough (too much resistance between the battery and the amp) it'll work at lower volumes and the voltage will even look good. But once you pass that certain point of power the ground can't handle the current and you have big (quick) voltage drops that a volt meter wouldn't completely detect. You may see it dip in the 12s when you know it should stay in the 13s.
If you search here you'll see how you can take a DMM and test the ohm resistance between the battery negative and the ground spot at your amp. Or just try picking another spot to ground.

Where exactly is your current ground and what steps did you take to prep/install the ground wire? Also, what gauge is the ground and power wire and have you done the big three?

The ground is screwed in with the rear driver side seat belt anchor (i wasn't aware that their where steps to take to prepare the ground i just screwed it down) and the power wire is a 4 gauge and i think the ground is an 8 gauge and what is " the big three"?

 

[jrwalte 10+ year member]

The ground is your problem. The ground has to be at least the same size as the power - never smaller. You're also supposed to sand any metal surface. It usually has paint/rust protectant on it and you need to get to the bare metal. You're probably actually grounding through the bolt that screws into the metal and not the metal itself.

Also look at how that metal at the seat is attached to the main metal frame of your car. It may not be the main frame, but a metal bracket that then bolts to the frame. You want to select a bolt that's on that frame. It's easy to notice. Just find the large piece of metal that is covering the entire floor/trunk of your car.

The big three is upgrading the main power/ground wires under your hood to get less resistance in your electrical system and increase current throughput (Almost like doing a mini upgrade on an alternator but it only costs you wire). It's usually done in 1/0 gauge wire, but you'd be fine doing it in 4 gauge. You can search big three here to figure out exactly what to do. I believe it's even a sticky thread in this forum.