non reference Daton products

[BLD 25 10+ year member]

Hey, i read alot on here, and it seems that many people agree the dayton reference products are pretty good. I am not wanting to spend quite that much, and i was wondering if the rest of their lines are any good. The t/s parameters look good for some of their classic series stuff, and they also have some nice 7" aluminum drivers that look good for around $15 apeice.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-335

The tweets i was looking at:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=275-070&raid=46&rak=275-070

Also, i have an intrepid with "sail" tweeters that house a 3inch paper cone. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crying.gif.ec0ebefe590df0251476573bc49e46d8.gif Would this be a decent replacement just to get started to run off the HU until i can make my comps?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=297-426&dotd=021607&orefer=dotd

thanks, i have become fairly knowledgeable in subs, but am still new to making comps, etc. Any other PE brands in the same price range that are good? I assume the goldwood stuff is crap. Any advice is appriciated.

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[JimJ 5,000+ posts]

Fill the tweet spots with real tweeters, not full range drivers...

As for those mids, I'd be worried about aluminum cone speakers having a breakup node too soon...unless you can find tweets that will go down to 1.8kHz solidly (larger-flange Morels come to mind), I'd go with a paper cone driver instead. Whole lot easier to integrate with most tweeters...

 

[Thieroff 10+ year member]

Hey, i read alot on here, and it seems that many people agree the dayton reference products are pretty good. I am not wanting to spend quite that much, and i was wondering if the rest of their lines are any good. The t/s parameters look good for some of their classic series stuff, and they also have some nice 7" aluminum drivers that look good for around $15 apeice.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-335

The tweets i was looking at:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=275-070&raid=46&rak=275-070

Also, i have an intrepid with "sail" tweeters that house a 3inch paper cone. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crying.gif.ec0ebefe590df0251476573bc49e46d8.gif Would this be a decent replacement just to get started to run off the HU until i can make my comps?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=297-426&dotd=021607&orefer=dotd

thanks, i have become fairly knowledgeable in subs, but am still new to making comps, etc. Any other PE brands in the same price range that are good? I assume the goldwood stuff is crap. Any advice is appriciated.

I have the Dayton DA 175 aluminum mids.

They aren't a bad midrange driver, and sound pretty good, although midbass duty is really where they would shine at.

CT

 

[LoudCrownVic 5,000+ posts]

ive got the refs... The classics can't be too far behind... DO it!

 

[BLD 25 10+ year member]

Thanks, so could the aluminum 7" match up with the classic silk tweeter without a midrange?

 

[///M5 10+ year member]

If you go that route, I'd at least build a notch.

 

[dragonrage 10+ year member]

Don't touch those aluminums... The breakup isn't the problem, but the low Xmax is. And the impedance is 8 ohms.

 

[expo5.0 10+ year member]

i definitely like my rs daytons

they are like $30 new- just don't eat a couple meals?

 

[BLD 25 10+ year member]

Don't touch those aluminums... The breakup isn't the problem, but the low Xmax is. And the impedance is 8 ohms.

xmax is 4.25mm compared to 6 in the reference. Thats not that huge of a difference.

 

[stuckinok 5,000+ posts]

if you can just save up for the RS it would be alot better.....

 

[nismos14 5,000+ posts]

I have the 7's they sound pretty good even with the small xmax. hardly used if you want them I'd sell'em to ya.

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

xmax is 4.25mm compared to 6 in the reference. Thats not that huge of a difference.

it's about a 30% difference. Not insignificant

 

[///M5 10+ year member]

it's about a 30% difference. Not insignificant

Jesus man, have you used both? That is one heck of a blanket statement. Specs on paper don't mean a whole lot. What happens if the driver that has more xmax has a suspension that locks it up way before it can get there? That is sort of like assuming that since one sub models better than the other it is going to work better in your car, not at all the case 100% of the time.

 

[ENDER_XVICM 10+ year member]

I looked at the links in the oroginal post and saw the price of these speakers and so I have to ask. I have been looking at the new Alpine Type Rs, the 110 RMS models. Considering the price difference and that I want to stay as cheap as possible. How well will these compare to Alpine Type Rs?

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

Jesus man, have you used both? That is one heck of a blanket statement. Specs on paper don't mean a whole lot. What happens if the driver that has more xmax has a suspension that locks it up way before it can get there? That is sort of like assuming that since one sub models better than the other it is going to work better in your car, not at all the case 100% of the time.

I wasn't saying that the one spec meant that one was necessarily better than the other. I was simply saying that what seems like a small difference (2mm) is actually a 30% difference. Not saying that specs mean everything. My point was that a difference like that shouldn't be ignored. I never once said one was better than the other. I simply said that the difference in Xmax is more substantial than it may seem because of the small values.