No Power To Amp!

[tech]

Just wanna confirm something. You said you have 5v at the remote for the amp and at the power for the loc? And 12v at the amp power and the loc remote?

yes, that's correct

 

[tech]

Just looked at the manual for the lc2i and I appear to be right. It's only gonna be able to send out what it gets in through the power. You should have 12v

hmm interesting. So I'm somehow losing about 7 volts on the wire running from my battery to the LOC, and that's why the power at the LOC is only showing 5 volts?

What would cause a partial power loss like this?

 

[noble brown]

Well if only 5v is going into the loc then I'd have to know where the other end of that wire goes to. My best guess is a wire that is very nearly broken

 

[tech]

Well if only 5v is going into the loc then I'd have to know where the other end of that wire goes to. My best guess is a wire that is very nearly broken

I just got in from goofing around with it again. My DMM is now reading 0.5 volts at the power of the LOC. I checked the battery terminal posts under the hood, but they didn't look too corroded or anything. I tried cleaning them with some baking powder and water anyway. No change. I was running out of light so I had to come in for the night. While I was taking voltage readings at the battery terminals, I noticed quite a bit of variation as I drag the positive prong of the DMM across the positive battery post, nut, terminal leads. The voltage was bouncing between 3-12volts. I wonder if my battery is getting ready to go?

 

[noble brown]

I just got in from goofing around with it again. My DMM is now reading 0.5 volts at the power of the LOC. I checked the battery terminal posts under the hood, but they didn't look too corroded or anything. I tried cleaning them with some baking powder and water anyway. No change. I was running out of light so I had to come in for the night. While I was taking voltage readings at the battery terminals, I noticed quite a bit of variation as I drag the positive prong of the DMM across the positive battery post, nut, terminal leads. The voltage was bouncing between 3-12volts. I wonder if my battery is getting ready to go?

Im assuming that the power wire for the loc goes to that battery post. I would check voltage right where the wire comes out of the terminal at the battery. Somewhere along that wire you are losing voltage. What you are describing may be from loose or corroded connections. I doubt it's from a bad battery. I've never seen voltage fluctuate like that from a bad battery. Pull the terminals completely off and clean them thoroughly.

 

[tech]

Im assuming that the power wire for the loc goes to that battery post. I would check voltage right where the wire comes out of the terminal at the battery. Somewhere along that wire you are losing voltage. What you are describing may be from loose or corroded connections. I doubt it's from a bad battery. I've never seen voltage fluctuate like that from a bad battery. Pull the terminals completely off and clean them thoroughly.

Yeah, it must be a break in the power wire for the LOC. I'm going to trace the wire from the battery to the LOC tomorrow and see what I find.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

That may be the problem....the battery. Or alt, which recharges the battery. Ive had this happen to me as well.

if your battery doesn't have enough juice to power your amp and such, that amp ain't gonna make power. Plain and simple.

not to be a jackass about it but those other things I'd look into. Trust me, I've been there and bought ready to pull my hair out when things were going haywire on me as well.

 

[los33 10+ year member]

Yeah, it must be a break in the power wire for the LOC. I'm going to trace the wire from the battery to the LOC tomorrow and see what I find.

Have you done an eld bypass?

Sent from my draconis using Tapatalk

 

[tech]

That may be the problem....the battery. Or alt, which recharges the battery. Ive had this happen to me as well.
if your battery doesn't have enough juice to power your amp and such, that amp ain't gonna make power. Plain and simple.

not to be a jackass about it but those other things I'd look into. Trust me, I've been there and bought ready to pull my hair out when things were going haywire on me as well.

This wouldn't make sense though as the amp power is showing a full 12 volts.

 

---------- Post added at 01:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:43 AM ----------

 

Have you done an eld bypass?
Sent from my draconis using Tapatalk

I'm not sure what this is?

 

[los33 10+ year member]

This wouldn't make sense though as the amp power is showing a full 12 volts. 

---------- Post added at 01:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:43 AM ----------

 

I'm not sure what this is?

Your year and model of honda come with a charging limitation that is good for daily driving, but bad for amplifiers if not stock.

It causes voltage drops due to alternator power being limited by the honda eld.

Sent from my draconis using Tapatalk

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

I had a similar issue. The amp would come on whenever it felt like it. I finally found a day to find out what the problem is. Turns out the guy that had the vehicle before I bought it did a small aftermarket install, small 8 " sub small amp and a LCD inline converter. The remote wire was dangling under the dash and was not twisted or tight to begin with.

 

[tech]

Well if only 5v is going into the loc then I'd have to know where the other end of that wire goes to. My best guess is a wire that is very nearly broken

I started taking the heat shrink tubing off the remote power wire coming off the battery, and one end of the wire came right off butt splice. The copper wire had basically disintegrated. I needed to cut about 6inches of wire off before I could find some clean copper again. I reattached the wire to a new splice and wrapped in heatshrink, and everything is now working great again. I guess the wire shorted out or something.

Thanks for your assistance Noble.

 

[noble brown]

I started taking the heat shrink tubing off the remote power wire coming off the battery, and one end of the wire came right off butt splice. The copper wire had basically disintegrated. I needed to cut about 6inches of wire off before I could find some clean copper again. I reattached the wire to a new splice and wrapped in heatshrink, and everything is now working great again. I guess the wire shorted out or something.
Thanks for your assistance Noble.

Np. Glad I could help.