Newbie needs some help

Casper

Junior Member
Ok, here goes. I am finally throwing some sound into my 2000' F-150 ext. cab. I just upgraded the HU to a JVC Model: KDG700 50W X 4 cd reciever. I just bought 2 pairs of Kenwood 6 x 8's ( KFC-C6889ie) to replace my factory speakers.

Now, here comes the fun part. I am looking into getting an amp for my 4 6 X 8's, 2 10's and an amp to push them as well. I want to install all of this myself, but I am COMPLETLY clueless as to what I will need or even how to go about it.

Also, I can but the subs and amp together, or the amp for my mids and wait a month for the next purchase. What would you do? Amp for mids first or subs first?

I am going to buy a sealed box that fits under the backseat for the subs. I am looking at the audiobahn high excursions and the HIFONICS BX1500D Class D Mono 1500W Subwoofer Amplifier to push them. I am undecided on the amp for the mids.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I know next to nothing about car audio.

Casper

 
I would buy the amp and subs first. The box you will be getting for your truck will not overpower that HU. With this I mean the HU will put out OK power for the amount of bass you will be getting out of that box. I have the same box in on of my trucks and I am using the HU to push my componants.

I would get a good set of componants for your truck. If your into sound quality you cannot beat the way they sound. There are 100's of companies that make an affordable componant system that comes with a 2 6 1/4 and 2 dome tweets as well as 2 crossovers. You can get a decent set for under 100.00. (I mean decent not top of the line) I would mount my 2 dome tweets above my front window support pointing at the driver and passenger. Tweeters are unidirectional which means you cannot hear them very well unless they are pointed at you.

DO NOT get a cheap amp to run the subs, or you will not like the fact you have to go buy a new one in 6 months. They sell amp kits that come with most everything you will need to install the amp. I would buy the amp kit that comes with a 4 gauage (or bigger) power wire. They sell the amp kits based of the watts of the amp. You will want to upgrade down the road, and you would have to buy another amp kit with your next amp purchase if you do not go big off the back. Next is your ground, you can take the ground wire they give you with the amp kit and throw it away. Go to an Audio store and buy another piece of 4 guage wire and use that for your ground. The one that comes in the kit is WAY to small. When you ground the amp DO NOT USE A SEAT BOLT, and ground it to the frame NOT the body. Wire brush the area and make sure the area has no paint or sealer on it. BARE METAL ONLY. You may have to get a long bolt to go through to the frame, but it will be worth the hassel. Use a good connector on the end of the ground and do not do the stripped wire around a bolt method

After you get the money for your mid and high amp you can buy a power distro block and run it off the same power wire you had for your other amp. That is why I said start big with the wire for future upgrades. When you run your RCA's, speaker wire, and power wire, Run the power wire on the driver side of the car, and everything else on the passenger side. This will keep you from getting feedback through your speakers.

 
be careful with putting big subs in a box that will fit under your seat. that box will only fit a sub with a certain depth and a high excursion sub may be too big for the box. check the specs to make sure before you buy.

 
Most of the pre-made box's have speakers already in them. But Worm is right. Mounting depth is a big key. Most truck box's are down fire anyway, with a 1/2 to 3/4 inch area allowed for excursion.

 
Jensen. I am not trying to put them down, but why would you pay the same amount of money for jensen when a set of componants will give you a better sound quality. Crisp clean mids and highs. The problem with Jensen, most if any of there speakers do not come with a crossover, or a bass blocking capasitor. Granted 99% of amps have a LPF/HPF but I still prefer a crossover. along with the LPF/HPF.

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

Similar threads

I'd also recommend that at the very least, you deaden the doors with some sort of mass layer like this Siless Max 120 mil (3mm) 30 sqft Car Sound...
5
1K
That blue wire with the "remote control" sticker on it: It's NOT a remote control wire. Its a remote... control wire. Its a switch that...
11
1K
Wow. That's a nice truck. Where I live there are few cars and trucks that use only one amplifier to power the speakers. So already noticeable...
6
2K
And even then the Demons are a nice subwoofer. Heard a pair of those in the 10" locally Monday afternoon on around 1,200 watts and for a sealed...
9
1K
This is my thought as well. Would be a much better box volume if you could buy the 12" version of those subs.
2
2K

About this thread

Casper

Junior Member
Thread starter
Casper
Joined
Location
N'awlins
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
5
Views
728
Last reply date
Last reply from
pavengmike6
20240723_125956.jpg

Bobbytwonames

    Jul 26, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
20240723_125945.jpg

Bobbytwonames

    Jul 26, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top