New toys wanted to share my excitement

yischrax
10+ year member

mobile dynamics grad MECP
I have recently decided to overhaul my audio system. The only thing staying is my CDT M6 mids and DRT26 aluminum dome tweeters on a braxial set up .

My first thing was to swap out my old clarion dxz-835mp deck I love it to death but recently decided not to spit out discs and freaks out from time to time and doesn't turn on or something. I decided to put a alpine 9887 in its place.

I must say the sound of the Clarion seemed to be warmer than the clarion that is very crisp. I also love that I have the ability to not just have a hp and lp x over on it but the ability to go fully active 2 way with it . Not that it matters do to using a Rockford Fosgate 360.2 in this system I am going to pick up a M audio fast track and a Behringer ECM-8000 and have a guy on DIY forum calibrate it for me.

As for my amps I use to have a us amps 1000x going to my passive x over component set with about 325w to each side. This got switched out to a active set up using a Exile audio XI 800.4 I have a issue with my driver side tweeter not playing properly right now haven't got to diagnose it yet I hope it isn't the new deck with a bad rca but we will see.

For my subs and amp I was running a Memphis 1000 to a pair of DD 1508 dvc subs in a PWK t-Box Sounded great was a little lacking on kick drums with such stuff as Chimera and Slip Knot but for being 8's they slammed. This combo is in the works of being swapped out as I have a Exile Audio 2500.1 I put in a week or two ago and the little 1508's love it taking about 1800 watts but thats about all they can do. So I purchased a DD 9512G carbon fiber cone and Dust cap and will once again be going with a PWK Design box. I know this thing will take all the power I have and some I am hopping it will sound as good and be as loud or louder than my previous system in my past vehicle (Re xxx 15 old one with a US Amps 2000x on it) we will see.

I have done a lot of work on the Electrical I will be running a Power master D3100 in the rear to go with the Power master stock size Honda battery that has been under the hood for some time now. I will be switching the single run of 0 gauge wire to 2 runs for power and 2 runs for ground I need to make some custom distribution Blocks out of brass stock do to them not making a distribution block that has 4 0 gauge a 4 gauge and some small 10-12 gauge for random accessories. I still need to buy a new alt plan on going with a 250 or 320 amp alt from DC Power.

I just got the Sub in today and am excited can't wait to get the design back from Pete and get the box built.

I still need to do some body work to the vehicle so I haven't got to deaden it yet do to my friend that will be doing it said he wont do the work if I deaden it do to making it a pain to pound the dents out from the inside if I do so.

I'm planning to put all this into my 93 Honda civic hatch back and then build a amp rack where the rear seat use to be.

I will try to get some pictures up soon as I have all the products and get the box built then I will take some pictures as I re wire everything. Ohh yeah I am using knukonceptz wire and rca's except for the left over kicker 0 gauge I have left from my accommodation from working at Circuit City.

 
good for you don't really care thanks for deciding to comment "thats sarcasm"

I only put this up here because I am proud of my new set up and how it is coming together if you read it or not doesn't really matter to me.

I will get pictures up when I get to doing something not just taking pictures of stuff sitting in a room if you want to see pictures of products there all over on the internet. When I start installing them I will get pictures up.

 
Sounds like a fun project //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I will be switching the single run of 0 gauge wire to 2 runs for power and 2 runs for ground I need to make some custom distribution Blocks out of brass stock do to them not making a distribution block that has 4 0 gauge a 4 gauge and some small 10-12 gauge for random accessories. I still need to buy a new alt plan on going with a 250 or 320 amp alt from DC Power.
You can use 1/0 ring terminals and connect the wires directly to the alternator charge bolt for positive, and there should be a bolt on the alternator that is a ground point that you could connect the grounds to. Or if you insist on connecting them to the battery there should be a way that you can connect the wires with ring terminals as well so that it would be cheaper and easier.

Why do you need a block that accepts 4 1/0 wires if you're only doing two to each post? I'm sure you can find one that has two 1/0 and a 4awg wire..

 
Did I misinterpret this? Are you talking about a block to put near the amps to split the wire? I thought you were talking about to connect wires under the hood..

 
no I will be using a block under the hood hooking to the front battery (4 gauge) to the alt. (0 gauge) and then have 2 runs going to the back (0 gauge) in the back I will have a block hooking both coming from up front (0 gauge) going the the battery (0 gauge) going to the 2500.1 (0 gauge) and to the 800.4 (4 gauge) and to the 360.2 and maybe a screen or led's or such down the line (10-12 gauge) I could buy multiple blocks and bat terminals to connect everything but it will only cost me 120 bucks or so for all 4 blocks and be cleaner and I can have some one I know machine the blocks for me.

so figuring it is only going to be 25-30 for each block it isn't a bad price and will look cleaner just take a little more work.

 
How about this?

Use 1/0 from the alt to front battery, and do the rest of the "big 3" using 1/0.

Connect two 1/0 power to the alternator charging post and run them to the back battery.

Connect two shorter ground wires directly to the frame and drill a hole in the trunk, use a grommet and ground the batteries (you will use less than half the wire than you planned on using)

If you really want to do the runs from the front for negatives, ground them directly to the front battery or the alternator.

Connect all amps and accessories to back battery.

Use ring terminals to do all of this.

Simple, effective, cheap.

 
Thanks for the heads up but I have already decided how I'm going to go about running the power and grounds it may not be the cheapest or easiest way but will be the way it is done in my vehicles. If I an help it I will not ground in maltiple places to decrease the chance of getting a ground loop. Don't ask me why nut I just hate ring terminals so if I can do a install avoiding the use of them I will. Thanks for the information and heads up.

 
I just hate ring terminals so if I can do a install avoiding the use of them I will. Thanks for the information and heads up.
Lol fair enough.. At one point in my life I hated the things as well, now they just seem to make installing so much easier and cheaper :p. Good luck with the install though.

 
21onexz.gif
 
Can yo make a distro out of copper I have a friend at a shop that said he can get the stock for free and mill it. Just want to make sure it will work without problems.

 
Can yo make a distro out of copper I have a friend at a shop that said he can get the stock for free and mill it. Just want to make sure it will work without problems.
Copper is always a good choice when making something that's supposed to conduct electricity through it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
That's not really sharing it with us now is it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

Picturez!

 
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yischrax

10+ year member
mobile dynamics grad MECP
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