New to subwoofers, please help!

I doubt a 1 layer will take 750 watts, pls dont troll if you dont know what your talking about. ( you should watch the videos about this sub before you comment like this)
Any coil will take any amount of power, reliability is a different story. Please don't suggest stupid **** if you don't know what you're talking about.

 
Any coil will take any amount of power, reliability is a different story. Please don't suggest stupid **** if you don't know what you're talking about.
you also think this sub only has 1 layer? reliability? i own the sub its still working, i just tested it on brz 1700.1d @ 2 ohm 1200 watts at full tilt and the cone never got warm. I dont think this sub is stupid, whoever thinks a 300 watt 2 inch voice coil sub is better than a 700watt 3 inch voice coil is who you need to talk to.

 
you also think this sub only has 1 layer? reliability? i own the sub its still working, i just tested it on brz 1700.1d @ 2 ohm 1200 watts at full tilt and the cone never got warm. I dont think this sub is stupid, whoever thinks a 300 watt 2 inch voice coil sub is better than a 700watt 3 inch voice coil is who you need to talk to.
Louder =/= Better

I have seen videos, on the first run one guy's sub was already coming apart, so don't preach to me about quality.

Just because you've got a crappy 60$ sub in a flea market box doesn't mean that this guy should. I don't think you've convinced anyone here that sub is better, except yourself of course.

 
Do yourself a favor and do some research on power requirements for whatever you plan on doing. Unfortunately I didn't do my power research and I'm now shelling out an extra $400 for new wiring, Big 3 upgrade, new battery, possibly new alternator, etc. Don't run into the same problems I did....
Keep in mind if you add a lot of amps (wattage, amperage, voltage, whatever), you're going to have electrical problems. You will most likely need to double-ground your battery and your alternator depending on what you're getting. Also, alternator positive to battery positive via a fuse. From what I've gathered through my research, your car's stock electrical system was designed to handle ONLY what the car and its electronics pull, and not for any aftermarket audio equipment. I've run up to 600rms without grounding my battery or alternator, but anything over that you should consider it. You may not neccesarily hear a differnence once you do your big 3, but it should help your alternator last longer if you're pulling more power than necessary. Also make sure you buy a Digital Multimeter to set your gains properly because it will assure correct power draw and you won't blow your expensive equipment.

I learned my lesson: post threads before buying equipment....

Also: if you're going sealed, you can build/box a pre-fab box. If you're going ported, BUILD YOUR OWN BOX, or pay someone over $150 to build one for you properly, there is no easy way around this. How good your ported sub sounds depends almost 100% on the quality, size, weight, thickness, and porting of the enclosure. Good luck!
Setting your gains with a DMM will get you relatively close. Best way would be to use an O-scope.

Never go prefab, even if it's a standard sealed enclosure.

 
Louder =/= Better
I have seen videos, on the first run one guy's sub was already coming apart, so don't preach to me about quality.

Just because you've got a crappy 60$ sub in a flea market box doesn't mean that this guy should. I don't think you've convinced anyone here that sub is better, except yourself of course.
I'm waiting for you to say that a 300 watt 2 inch voice coil is better than a 750watt 3 inch voice coil. which is the discussion you butted in

what you saw was gasket which is crappy to change gasket is $1.50 and my gasket is still intact.

 
I'm waiting for you to say that a 300 watt 2 inch voice coil is better than a 750watt 3 inch voice coil. which is the discussion you butted in
what you saw was gasket which is crappy to change gasket is $1.50 and my gasket is still intact.
The Dcon is clearly a better sub than whatever the hell you want to call that thing.

I can name a lot of ways.

Think of when the OP wants to change up his system. The Dcon will still be worth 70% of what he paid for it to someone. Who is gonna buy some second hand ebay crap?

I'm still waiting for you to come up with something besides it being louder?

Dcon -

Sounds better

Built better

Name Brand with customer service backing

Better Looking

More Reliable

Made in the USA

Full T/S Parameters and exact specs available

Resale Value

Ebay sub-

Louder

 
I doubt a 1 layer will take 750 watts, pls dont troll if you dont know what your talking about. ( you should watch the videos about this sub before you comment like this)
so now we are using vids to pass judgement on these subs you are referring to?

ok, let's drop it a bit to an even cheaper sub than the DCON...here are two $100.00 Sundown E-12's with 2" coils and stamped steel baskets balls to the wall on a SAZ2500 knocking down a 150.4 @ 40hz USACi 0-1000, and 147 on music at the dash sealed....one more time...I love this vid..


 
The Dcon is clearly a better sub than whatever the hell you want to call that thing.
I can name a lot of ways.

Think of when the OP wants to change up his system. The Dcon will still be worth 70% of what he paid for it to someone. Who is gonna buy some second hand ebay crap?

I'm still waiting for you to come up with something besides it being louder?

Dcon -

Sounds better

Built better

Name Brand with customer service backing

Better Looking

More Reliable

Made in the USA

Full T/S Parameters and exact specs available

Resale Value

Ebay sub-

Louder
why do you buy a sub? to sell, to look pretty, to talk to customer service or to get loud?

you are contradicting your self its so funny

 
so now we are using vids to pass judgement on these subs you are referring to?ok, let's drop it a bit to an even cheaper sub than the DCON...here are two $100.00 Sundown E-12's with 2" coils and stamped steel baskets balls to the wall on a SAZ2500 knocking down a 150.4 @ 40hz USACi 0-1000, and 147 on music at the dash sealed....one more time...I love this vid..


not sure where sundown came in to this conversation, with you it always ends up with sundown

 
I'm waiting for you to say that a 300 watt 2 inch voice coil is better than a 750watt 3 inch voice coil. which is the discussion you butted in
what you saw was gasket which is crappy to change gasket is $1.50 and my gasket is still intact.
You are the one saying they are better, I am just trying to get you to reveal the TS data so I can accurately model the damn thing. I figured you might have had that info shipped with the sub, since it not to be found readily online. And no, I would not waste my time and effort on buying one...I refuse to deal with fleabay anyways for past reasons.

 
You are the one saying they are better, I am just trying to get you to reveal the TS data so I can accurately model the damn thing. I figured you might have had that info shipped with the sub, since it not to be found readily online. And no, I would not waste my time and effort on buying one...I refuse to deal with fleabay anyways for past reasons.
If you were closer i would not hesitate to lend you the sub, and unfortunately no T\S came with the sub.

 
why do you buy a sub? to sell, to look pretty, to talk to customer service or to get loud?
you are contradicting your self its so funny
You *******, Why do people buy 50,000$ Cadillacs when the Geo Metro exists? because they are smart enough to realize that the metro is a turd.

I've never bought a sub just to get loud. I buy my subs to play music, not sure about you.

 
You *******, Why do people buy 50,000$ Cadillacs when the Geo Metro exists? because they are smart enough to realize that the metro is a turd.
I've never bought a sub just to get loud. I buy my subs to play music, not sure about you.
you sound really mad lol, if my geo has double the engine as your cadillac I will race your cadillac any day and gurantee you the only thing you will see is the geo sign on my trunk if you can even keep up.

I think you are the only one that ever bought a sub not to get loud you are so f****** hilarioous

read what you wrote --- i wanna buy a sub but i dont want to get loud, i just want to play music

what i would say here's a harmonica and sit on the corner and play your music hahahahaha

 
If you were closer i would not hesitate to lend you the sub, and unfortunately no T\S came with the sub.
Thank you. geez. I suggested two E12's from the start, someone else suggested the DCON's, you suggested the ebay subs...and then you said two of them would be louder than 1 dcon....blah blah blah. I still stand behind the E series subs after watching the vids on the Tubs and my personal experiences with the Sa's I expect they will be very musical on a wide range of power. The DCON is not a bad sub either. I do like their stacked motors vs the E's single mag. The Ebay subs, judging by what is available, appears to be not a Metro, but a Delorean..a pretty turd.

 
you sound really mad lol, if my geo has double the engine as your cadillac I will race your cadillac any day and gurantee you the only thing you will see is the geo sign on my trunk if you can even keep up.
I think you are the only one that ever bought a sub not to get loud you are so f****** hilarioous

read what you wrote --- i wanna buy a sub but i dont want to get loud, i just want to play music

what i would say here's a harmonica and sit on the corner and play your music hahahahaha
Did you know that SPL is not the only part of the car audio community, there is a whole nother magical thing called Sound Quality. Look deeper into it and you'll see that I'm nowhere near as picky as them.

Why buy this when an SA-12 will handle the same power and be as loud?

WoofersEtc.com - Ultimo 12 - Morel 12" SQ/SPL 2 Ohm 1000 Watt Subwoofer

 
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