new project has commenced

[thylantyr 10+ year member]

http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/sr.cgi?1130472632_24971+33
muy bien?

Any Whiteside router bit is ranked high. I have their beefy 1.5" roundover

bit {3" wide bit} that has big azz carbide tips and I did a roundover on 1.5" thick

MDF in one pass, it just ate the MDF like butter. This was so cool. Cost me

$125 for that bit though but it did the job without flaw.

pics;

http://home.pacbell.net/lordpk/port/

I made custom 6" flared ports, 6" hole, 9" flare, 12" flange. Gonna use one of these

for each 15" woofer I have. The black port is a Precision Port 4" flared for size reference.

In all, I have almost $1000 in Whiteside bits as I've collected them over the years.

Always use common sense when cutting and use a variable speed router if you

have that luxury.

My next big tool purchase --> 12" sliding compound miter saw [$600] ... /ouch

sometimes I want to build something with 4x4 wood and the 10" saw won't cut it in one pass,

too short. You need the 12" blade. Sliding is very cool, you can cut more wood vs. fixed, but it cost

more for a sliding saw.

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

For the final touch, use a scroll saw and cut out an intricate design out of walnut, make it 1/2" thick, round all edges, and use Tougne Oil, it will make the walnut stand out like night and day, the mellow natural color of the ply, with the deep dark color of the walnut. Dang, I love the look of walnut, (prob why I use it so much with my projects).
*Edit*

Doesen't have to be that intricitue, just don't overdo it, but have something going from almost top to bottom, in about the center 1/3 of it.

what are you talkin about man? what should i make out of walnut?

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

Any Whiteside router bit is ranked high. I have their beefy 1.5" roundoverbit {3" wide bit} that has big azz carbide tips and I did a roundover on 1.5" thick

MDF in one pass, it just ate the MDF like butter. This was so cool. Cost me

$125 for that bit though but it did the job without flaw.

pics;

http://home.pacbell.net/lordpk/port/

I made custom 6" flared ports, 6" hole, 9" flare, 12" flange. Gonna use one of these

for each 15" woofer I have. The black port is a Precision Port 4" flared for size reference.

In all, I have almost $1000 in Whiteside bits as I've collected them over the years.

Always use common sense when cutting and use a variable speed router if you

have that luxury.

My next big tool purchase --> 12" sliding compound miter saw [$600] ... /ouch

sometimes I want to build something with 4x4 wood and the 10" saw won't cut it in one pass,

too short. You need the 12" blade. Sliding is very cool, you can cut more wood vs. fixed, but it cost

more for a sliding saw.

i went into lowes knowing that i am not going to replace this router for as long as i'm home and though college. it aint gonna be a 4 week router. thus, i purchased this.

going to lowes to get the rest of my wood cut (i'm so //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/redface.gif.62fdbfe1a101588a808c4cff71bcb942.gif but lowes cutting it vs me getting green paint burned into the wood is a tradeoff that i'll take) so i need to pick up the rest of the stuff. i'll check back during per.5 today to see if u responded.

 

[thylantyr 10+ year member]

What circular saw blades do you use?

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

I have a skil blade that is somehow bent (i'm finished with skil after my router incident) and am using a replacement stock blade. it is a hitachi blade and saw, and the blade is painted green.

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

oh and i found out that i DO indeed have a 45 degree chamfer bit from my router pack. i'll use that for now.

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

i still require tips on finishing the wood. i got cited by my school's parking lot "guard" for having "potentially dangerous material" in my car. consisted of a 4x3 sheet of the plywood and some screws //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

just goes to show u how stuck up suburban indianapolis is.

 

[thylantyr 10+ year member]

Get a better circular saw blade, I have some ideas if you have $$$

suburban indianapolis is.

Blame it on the Colts

 

[ballstothewall 10+ year member]

You oughta live in hickvill Kansas...No one cares what you have in your vehicle, guns, knives, tools, its all the norm here, and I like it that way.

And I was talking about cutting a design out of walnut and gluing it onto the side of the box, I didn't specify that as well as I should have. cause Walnut on Oak or whatever type of plywood that is looks frickin cool when you put tonuge oil or polyurthane on it.

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

pics;

http://home.pacbell.net/lordpk/port/

I made custom 6" flared ports, 6" hole, 9" flare, 12" flange. Gonna use one of these

for each 15" woofer I have. The black port is a Precision Port 4" flared for size reference.

Wow. How much for some?

NG

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

k i went and picked up the minwax polyurethane, and got my pieces cut //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/redface.gif.62fdbfe1a101588a808c4cff71bcb942.gif

should i stain with the danish oil and then polyurethane?

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

great so now i have to do community service from 1-5 tomorrow so i'll get next to NO work done on them.

 

[ballstothewall 10+ year member]

uhh...5pm to 3am...What else is there to do other than work on the project???

 

[ballstothewall 10+ year member]

Oh an be careful with that polyurthane, its easy to get to much on and get runs, its hard to get a perfect finish with it. Yea, put the danish oil on first then the poly...make it nice and shiny. If you want it smooth as glass, you can get some steel wool and some wax and that sucker, it will take some of the shine out of it, but dang it will be smooth!

 

[thylantyr 10+ year member]

Polyurethane - Minwax is good because it's 'thinned' as opposed to other brands,

in liquid form it's best used if you wipe it on thin with a lint free rag. One coat,

then do another the next day. You can try more coats depending on what look

you are going for. I found that course woods like oak just look better with less

coats of poly. You gotta try a scrap piece of wood. I prefer to wait a few days

after staining before poly to ensure the stain has dried out. Depends on temperature.

Thick polyurethanes are cool too but too thick and it sorta svcks, those are best

for doing floors where you require a hard/thick finish.

Alot of it is personal taste, no substitute for the experiment.

There is another type called McGloskey 'Gymseal', goes on thick, it's glossy

and it just takes months to harden, but it's pretty cool.. gym floor effect.

Also, the thinner poly's also require months to harden. Curing time is fast,

but hardening time is long especially if it goes on thick.