New Member, need help picking out speakers

[KotnmthKng 10+ year member]

I have a 97 Mustang Cobra convertible with the Mach 460. The speaker sizes are 6x8 in the door, with 2.5 inch tweets, and 5.25 rear with separate 2.5 inch tweets. Im looking for good set of components for the front and back. I am by no means an audiophile, but I am looking for good SQ. I want something that will be loud enough to hear it good with the top down on the freeway, without needing an amp. I mostly listen to rock and rap, but if it makes a big difference on speakers I would go with rap. My first system I had was in an 88 hatchback Mustang with Kenwood Exelon all around and I was very happy with it. I was also looking at the JL XR series after my friend recommended them. But if theres something better out there around the same price as these two Id like to find out. Im looking to spend $500 or less for both sets.

Thanks guys.

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[Frankensuby 10+ year member]

Question, what are the specs on your stock system output? Preferably by channel.

That way, we can recommend a component set that fits your power needs perfectly. It can easily be done under 500$. For loudness, you want to try and get a component set that has 90+ sensitivity.

Anyways, please, try to find out your system's specifications.

 

[Frankensuby 10+ year member]

Mach 460 Soundystem:

Technical Specifications

One high-pass amplifier with 60 watts C.A.P./120 watts peak power at 2 percent total harmonic distortion

Two low-pass subwoofer amplifiers with 85 watts C.A.P./170 watts peak power

Four 5.5 inch x 7.5 inch subwoofers

Two rear-seat woofers

Two front-door woofers

Four 2.5 inch midrange/tweeters

Works with existing factory head unit

I'm confused as to where they are powering 4 woofers and 4 tweeters with 3 amps. I need to do some more research.

 

[KotnmthKng 10+ year member]

From what Ive read the Mach 460 is set up really odd. I am replacing everything though. Im getting a new head unit and ditching the factory amps. The HU Im looking at is the Kenwood KDC-X990

This is the website I got all my info from on the Mach 460 system

http://www.flemworld.com/Mach460/Mach.html

 

[Frankensuby 10+ year member]

Ya, I'd ditch the amps. A THD of 2% is pretty ugly these days.

I'd say 2 - 2 channel amps, probably want about 50-75 RMS by each @ 4 ohms, with a S/N of 100db and a THD of less than .03%. That would cover a good 2 sets of mids and tweeters.

With what I am reading, you can just substitute everything where it sits. Set the 2 amps in the same place, etc...

Let's see, you need

4 - 2.5" high frequency drivers

2 - 5.5x7.5" midranges

2 - 5.25 Midranges

And I don't know if your looking for a sub or not.

2.5" tweeters... haha that is a big one to replace.

 

[KotnmthKng 10+ year member]

I'd like to do it without amps, for now at least. I'll be doing 1 sub at the same time, JL 12w6v2 in a sealed box. As for the 2.5" tweets, Im just going to have those replaced with whatever is in the component set, 3/4" or 1"

 

[Frankensuby 10+ year member]

Unfortunately, I don't think you can just 'ditch' the amps. You either need the stockers or to get new ones. What I'd do is keep the stockers until you are ready for the aftermatket ones.

The reason why I don't believe you can just ditch the amps, is that your head unit was designed to run signal to the external amps before it went to the speakers. I doubt there is existing wires to run straight from the deck to the speakers like in most normal car audio systems. I could be wrong, as I do not own or have worked with this system, but normally this is the case with your type of system.

Ya, I cannot find any 2.5" speakers or tweeters that are not in a home audio system haha.

My system would be as follows:

Front 5.5x7.5 components = Infinity Reference 6810cs (90 RMS) Components (150$)

Rear 5.25" components = Polk DB5250 (100 RMS) Components (170$)

Front Amp = Power Acoustik A520-2HP (100 RMS @ 4ohms x 2) (100$)

Rear amp = Power Acoustik A520-2HP (100 RMS @ 4ohms x 2) (100$)

Total = 520$ altogether shipped. A bit above your budget, but you will get 100x better results.

The other problem is how the signal is sent from the deck to your stock amplifiers. Most aftermarket amps do not accept speaker wire signal, they use low level inputs known as RCA's.

If this is the case, I only know of Power Acoustik having this sort of input style, and I'm not sure how many of their amps even have that ability.

Edit: remodeling //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[KotnmthKng 10+ year member]

Sorry should have mentioned it will be getting all new wiring also

 

[Frankensuby 10+ year member]

Sorry should have mentioned it will be getting all new wiring also

Where is the wiring going in? I'd be interested to know if the deck can support straight to speaker power. It could be a 'deadhead', or a deck without internal amplification, because it sends the signal to the external amplifiers.

Are you a member at a Mustang forum? If so, I'd ask about the deck.

Edit:It says the front amp (directly under the deck) powers the tweeters and sends the signal to the rear deck amplifiers. So I'm confident in saying that your deck is a deadhead. You're going to use the stock 460 deck, right?

 

[KotnmthKng 10+ year member]

No im getting the Kenwood KDC-X990

 

[KotnmthKng 10+ year member]

What about the CDT speakers? I never heard of them before but I see a lot of people talking about them here.

 

[PremierAudio 10+ year member]

If you had an amp, you could get two sets of CDT Hd-52s for under 500.00

 

[KotnmthKng 10+ year member]

Frankensuby, since I'll be getting a new deck and new wiring, would you still reccommend the same thing? Im not against running the amps, I just didnt think it could be done that cheap.

 

[Frankensuby 10+ year member]

The amps I suggested aren't my favorites, but my experience with Power Acoustik leads me to believe they are decent, just not greatly built. Basically, the way to approach Power Acoustik products is this: If it says 125 watts RMS, it really is only 100 watts RMS, and so on. Only an RMS meter can tell you the truth though.

I'd rather have gone with the Pioneers I showed you earlier. They are a tad more expensive, but I'd trust them 100% more and they had better stats. They are probably a bit more bulky though.

But yes, my entire current audio system was alot of bargain shopping, I like to find flatline prices on stuff. Paying off a new car, insurance, engagements rings, etc. tends to make a person frugal with their funds //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

As for the wiring, you can sort of save a bit of time and money by running signal straight to the amps instead of running wire to each door. If you wire from the deck to the doors, and then decide to run amps later, it's just doubling your chores in the long run. The speakers I suggested sound best off of amps, with their rated power. The reason i suggested those amps were also because they look identical, and similar to your stock amps (in looks atleast). That way you can install them symetrically and it'll look nice and clean.

 

[KotnmthKng 10+ year member]

So you would recommend those speakers with the pioneer amps then? What was the part number for the amps again? What would be the best place to get everything from?