New head unit, peak 200watts… what speakers?

[abirdhouseforyou]

I’m upgrading my 2010 Honda fit. I installed a new double din android/CarPlay head unit that says 200watts peak (but I can’t find the rms wattage)

If I want to upgrade my 4 factory 6.5in speakers, possibly with an amp… what speaker wattage and what amp wattage should I be looking for, given this head unit?

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[Firewalker]

RMS is probably closer to 15-22 watts per channel. What amp you buy for the aftermarket speakers is dependent on which speakers you buy. Each brand/model has different rms ratings. Find a component 6.5" set for the front and get a 4 channel to run those and run the rears off the head unit. That is what most of us do.

Check sonicelectronix and crutchfield to see what 6.5" components will work. Both will send you speaker wire adapters as well. Then instead of running new wires to the front component set you run use 9 wire to wire into the aftermarket harness on the car side, NOT the new radio and it has remote wire as well built in. Then you need a 4 gauge ofc kit or 8 gauge ofc 4 channel kit. Some 4 channel amplifiers require 4 gauge so hence that suggestion.

 

[abirdhouseforyou]

RMS is probably closer to 15-22 watts per channel. What amp you buy for the aftermarket speakers is dependent on which speakers you buy. Each brand/model has different rms ratings. Find a component 6.5" set for the front and get a 4 channel to run those and run the rears off the head unit. That is what most of us do.

Check sonicelectronix and crutchfield to see what 6.5" components will work. Both will send you speaker wire adapters as well. Then instead of running new wires to the front component set you run use 9 wire to wire into the aftermarket harness on the car side, NOT the new radio and it has remote wire as well built in. Then you need a 4 gauge ofc kit or 8 gauge ofc 4 channel kit. Some 4 channel amplifiers require 4 gauge so hence that suggestion.

Thank you very much for the help… the suggestion about only replacing the fronts is what I had in mind. Honestly though, you lost me after you said “instead of running new wires to the front component”. I’m guessing you’re saying, rear speakers are connected to head unit via the harness connection, but splice that head unit output to also go to the amp… then go from the amp to the front speakers? But I don’t know what the ofc kit is… can you elaborate? Thanks again

 

[Firewalker]

Okay for the rears the speaker wires would still be connected from the radio to the aftermarket harness you installed. For the fronts you would disconnect the radio speaker wires from that harness. And that aftermarket harness you would run the 9 wire speaker wire to instead then from there the 9 wire would be hidden under the floorboards and what not to the 4 channel amplifier. I'll link it. I did it in mine works so much easier and OEM wiring can handle 100-125 watts easy enough. I was running 150 watts at 2 ohms through my '03 Explorer with no issues. OFC kit is real copper power wire. CCA is Copper Clad Aluminum wire which isn't as good as pure OFC or Welding wire. Personally if you plan on upgrading with a subwoofer down the line then find a 1/0 OFC kit and go from there.

And find a set of components that fit. That will give you the best sound out of the front vs just plain coaxials.

8 Gauge 4 channel OFC kit

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-66498-NVX-XKIT84.html

9 Wire Wire which includes the remote turn on wire for the amplifier which is one less thing to run

Amazon product ASIN B004H1KAMQ
4 Gauge 4 channel OFC Kit

Amazon product ASIN B008UXXIZ8

 

[abirdhouseforyou]

You’re a G, thank you for taking the time to explain and give links.

 

[Firewalker]

Not a problem. What county in Wisconsin? Northern area myself.

 

[abirdhouseforyou]

Not a problem. What county in Wisconsin? Northern area myself.

Dane!

 

[chillin 10+ year member]

I may have missed something, but why are you suggesting a 4ch for the fronts? Are you suggesting he goes active or is this for bridging a sub to? If the rears are run off the deck, why not just buy a 2ch?

 

[Firewalker]

4 channel for components and active if he wants to run new wire for the tweeters. Right now I have the 9 wire wire on the mid-bass and then ran new wire for the tweeters. Otherwise yeah 2 channel as the components should come with the crossover like you are thinking. Good pick up chillin. Messed that up

 

[abirdhouseforyou]

Ok so if I understand, this is what I’m thinking:

Pair of 60 watt 2 way speakers for front

4 channel 60watt amp
2 of the 4 channels get wired to the two new front speakers and 2 get wired to the tweeters? Do you think the improvement here will be a lot better than what the 2 factory speakers are doing?

 

[Firewalker]

A lot better. Most likely you will find a good set of components on one of those two websites. But check them as they have vehicle fit guides to tell you what will fit and what won't. Don't cheap out on them. 4 channel amplifiers you can get at a decent price. Don't buy some boss or some other junk like that from walmart or dual or something. Give us a budget and we can figure out something that will work and fit.

 

[HardofWhoring]

If it says 200watts peak, it's most likely 50w x 4 peak, and probably 22w x 4 RMS. RMS is all you really need to figure out.

Component speakers means the mid and tweeter are separate speakers and there will be a crossover to separate the frequencies that each speaker plays. They can usually be fine tuned (to add a little more mid /little less tweeter (USUALLY)).

If you have (4) 6.5" speakers total, and no tweeters anywhere, then you either need to find a place for them to go, or you don't get components, you get coaxials. Coaxial speakers are tweeters and mids in one speaker in a two and

What they were referring to when they said run a 4 ch amp to just the fronts means get a set of components, then run each midrange and each tweeter on their own channel. It's called BIAMPING. It's not common, and unless you plan on spending at least a couple grand on the overall setup (to include sound deadening, DSP, a second amp, then definitely upgrading your alternator), all because you want just a little bit more fine tuning of your mids and tweeters, then that's just not a relevant or realistic suggestion.

You haven't said your budget.
Your cheapest option is to just buy 4 speakers that fit and play on your head unit's power. You can spend about $100, it will be a little better than your factory was. It won't get too loud, but its the cheapest, quickest and easiest thing to call it a day.

If your budget allows it, (lets call it the $300- under $1000 budget) get a set of components for the front, find a 4 ch amp that has the same RMS, then find a set of coaxial speakers at that same wattage for the back, (you can safely be about 10% off either way).

Then figure out your amperage. Its about 8 amps of draw for every 100watts of power (4x100 =400, which is 32 amps draw). You need to figure out what size alternator you have. For most vehicles this wouldn't be a big deal, but for a honda fit, I think it's a safe bet your alternator is less than 100 amps, and depending on where you go with this, it might be a lot. Then if you ever might want to add a subwoofer, this is where we need to plan and figure out your electrical for your end goals before you start spending money. You might be able to get a 130 amp alt, you need to see what your options are on this, if you chose speakers that can get loud. On top of that $300-$1000 budget you might need a larger alternator and the big 3, and now we've added at least a few hundred more to the bill.

Soooo.. What's your budget, your end goals, do you want a subwoofer, what do you listen to, and do you want it to get LOUD?

 

[HardofWhoring]

A lot better. Most likely you will find a good set of components on one of those two websites. But check them as they have vehicle fit guides to tell you what will fit and what won't. Don't cheap out on them. 4 channel amplifiers you can get at a decent price. Don't buy some boss or some other junk like that from walmart or dual or something. Give us a budget and we can figure out something that will work and fit.

Where would you even put a 2nd amp in a honda fit? Gonna take out the passenger seat, or reduce the cargo area by 30%?

 

[abirdhouseforyou]

Budget is under 400
I don’t need a sub, I’ll consider that later on… I will be happy with even a small improvement from the factory bass. I don’t need it loud, just CLEAR. I listen to all types of music and a lot of audiobooks (speech)…


It seems like 1 front speaker that is coax/2way, only requires 1 single channel from the amp... so I don't need to run a separate channel to the tweeter within the coax speaker right? This presumable renders my in-dash tweeters not-needed?

This is the 2channel amp I'm thinking about:

Infinity Primus 6002A

Compact 2-channel car amplifier — 60 watts RMS x 2

www.crutchfield.com

60watt speakers:

Kicker 43DSC6504

DS Series 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers

www.crutchfield.com

Does this seem like a reasonably humble setup?

 

[HardofWhoring]

If you have tweeters in the dash, go with components up front.


I like focal, and we could play around with numbers, but If you want an easy answer, then go with that amp you picked and these.

Focal RSE-165

Auditor Series 6-1/2" component system

www.crutchfield.com

Or you will not go wrong with

Morel Maximo 6

Maximo Series 6-1/2" component speaker system

www.crutchfield.com

For these I would find a different amp, with just a little more power. 90w RMS. You can go 80-100, and if you go higher you can even dial it down to be 90w.

Maybe

Black Diamond Amplifier 2 Channel Full Range Class AB 1150 Watts DIA-1150.2

Upgrade your sound system with the Black Diamond Amplifier 2 Channel Full Range Class AB 1150 Watts DIA-1150.2. Experience power, efficiency, and versatility like never before.

wccaraudio.com

Jensen JA2B

JA Series compact 2-channel amplifier with digital signal processing — 95 watts RMS x 2

www.crutchfield.com

SOMEONE ELSE: There is a popular amp company on here, with the green and black amps, that I can't think of the name. They might have a better deal, especially with an amp kit.

This leaves you enough room to get an amp kit. Spend the $5-$10 and run new speaker wire from the amp.

120w amplifier is about 10amps and shouldn't effect your electrical, and that's when you are playing it at full volume.

I would intentionally hold off on the rear speakers. Generally the rears are just a filler, unless you have a big vehicle, and want the rear passengers to hear the music as if they were in the front. Get the fronts done, and see what is missing. See if you want a midrange, or if it needs more highs and you can get a coaxial. Just something that is about $50-$60 thats 20-40watts and will play off the head unit.