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Mlang

CarAudio.com Newbie
Good evening all,

My name is Mark and I’m a car audio enthusiast with limited pocket change. My current system consists of:
HU: Kenwood Excelon KDC-X396
Rockford Fosgate P1650 (front doors)
MTX Terminator69 (Rear deck)
Alpine MRP-F300 4 channel amp

I’m looking for some expert advice on options for how I can create a more front stage sound imaging without revamping my entire setup. I look forward to learning from you all.
-m
 
Good evening all,

My name is Mark and I’m a car audio enthusiast with limited pocket change. My current system consists of:
HU: Kenwood Excelon KDC-X396
Rockford Fosgate P1650 (front doors)
MTX Terminator69 (Rear deck)
Alpine MRP-F300 4 channel amp

I’m looking for some expert advice on options for how I can create a more front stage sound imaging without revamping my entire setup. I look forward to learning from you all.
-m

I would suggest that you sell the front speakers and grab a decent set of 6.5" components. Like these JBL. Get the tweeter off the floor for some better imaging.
Screenshot_20191227-185507_Amazon Shopping.jpg
 
I don’t think that hu is active. That said (unless I’m wrong) and your effort not to spend a bunch of money a Comp set us a good option run off your amp bridged. Rears not needed.
 
Oy vey,
I thought this might be the first suggestion. My RF’s are brand new but I can consider this if I could find a buyer. They were about the same price. What is your opinion on adding a DSP or EQ with time alignment ?
 
A good budget dsp like the Dayton is $200 which is more equipment. Kinda moving away from your request to be budget though. To see the benefit of that dsp you will need separate speakers(dedicated midbass and dedicated tweeter vs coaxials set) you just wont need the passive crossovers.

a headunit that is active capable with solid eq and time alignment like below might leave you budget for speakers.


for speakers a pair of silver flute drivers and ct2 tweeters will be about $130 And better than a lot of comp sets south of $300 or more dollars.
 
I don’t think that hu is active. That said (unless I’m wrong) and your effort not to spend a bunch of money a Comp set us a good option run off your amp bridged. Rears not needed.
I’m not sure that I understand completely. What exactly is a active head unit and a Comp set?
I get bridging the amp to power the front. Are you suggesting running the rears on HU power only?
Also, the current fronts couldn’t handle the bridged output. They are only rated at 55w rms.
Sorry for my lack of understanding.
 
Sound deadening, sealed gaps and decoupling with mlv would be a good start.

Thank you,
I have been doing sound deadening. Probably not to the extent that I have seen in my research. IOW, I haven’t gutted the interior to apply the product but doing the best I can.
what do you mean by ‘decoupling with mlv’?
 
I don’t think that hu is active. That said (unless I’m wrong) and your effort not to spend a bunch of money a Comp set us a good option run off your amp bridged. Rears not needed.
After re-reading I think I do get what your saying.
Gdt a set of component speakers to replace the front Fosgate’s and run them from the bridged amp.
correct?
Still running rears off HU power?
 
Thank you,
I have been doing sound deadening. Probably not to the extent that I have seen in my research. IOW, I haven’t gutted the interior to apply the product but doing the best I can.
what do you mean by ‘decoupling with mlv’?

Mlv is mass loaded vinyl, its a heavy vinyl that will absorb vibrations. You use it to seperate the contact of metal to metal surfaces, ie speaker to door.
 
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Mlang

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