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adulbrich
5,000+ posts
Olive oil un-virginer
With only one battery, i wouldn't play that too long (if at all) with your car off.
I would also recommend a HO alt, like you mentioned.
I would also recommend a HO alt, like you mentioned.
Jeffdachef
5,000+ posts
Gunz That Turn on Nunz
cut off the factory sub completely. Get the signal before the amp. To be honest, stock head unit signals arent very clean at all. I'd seriously work on the signal aspect of your setup if you have to gain up that high. Dont use bass boost either man. If its a stock battery, there is no way it'll support a 3k amp. You'll need one under the hood and one in the back by the amp. For alternators, DC power, Singer, Mechman, ohio generator, js ultimate alts, excessive amperage is where you can find good alts. You are seriously underestimating the amount of electrical upgrades and clean signal needed to get the most out of that amp. Even more so if you think a single battery can help you play the sub loud with the car off.
- Thread Starter
- #4
Correct me if I'm wrong. First looked into a capacitor but most people didn't recommend it. Then adding another battery but it only helps if the engine is off. Plus they need to be same age and power sof need 2 or more. After that, high output alternator but need to look and call around because this particular vehicle. Going to stick with factory head unit because of features. Some people said get signal before some after amp depending on car. Just wasn't sure if a high to low converter would make signal lower if it was hooked to factory subwoofer instead or rear speakers. Factory bose system with 13 speakers and the sundown system. As for right now, it sounds ok. Just need to make improvements to make that $2000 system more worth it.
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- #5
What about the front factory subwoofer? That one is louder than the rear. I left it on because I know I will be taking the sundown out at times for grocery shopping etc. I would still want some decent bass. This car is full with electrical components and don't want to mess up anything. It's a family car and I didn't want to go all out with it but just want something good when I need it. Considering it an upgrade from a alpine type r in a honda element.
Jeffdachef
5,000+ posts
Gunz That Turn on Nunz
You are getting misinformed with some your research.
You dont want multiple different subwoofers inside the car, it causes cancellation and other phase issues aka bass waves fighting each other and cancelling eachother out. You want the signal to be pure at the source, not a reprocessed signal from a factory amp because factory amps have their own built in eq curve which will mess with the bass. Its better to go off a subwoofer line than a rear speaker line because stock head units have a built in high pass filter to protect the speakers from playing too low so that will directly affect your bass signal strength.
Batteries will help with the car on or off, its necessary reserve power for the amps. You can add the battery in anytime you want unless you know your current battery is old and dying via testing it at auto shops, at that point just replace the battery under the hood.
- Thread Starter
- #7
I do have a optima blue top on my boat that I can test if it makes a difference. The one on the car is stock infiniti battery. 675 cca and 160 rc. Wouldn't they drain each other if not equivalent and cause more work load for alternator to charge? I couldn't find anything about alternator amps vs wattage. I just scratch my head if I see too much math and numbers. Will the 240 amp mechman alternator on sonix electronic supply enough? Really looking into that and trying to find signal before amp but there's a lot of wires and panels to open.
Jeffdachef
5,000+ posts
Gunz That Turn on Nunz
You can just add it on, People will say stuff on paper but a lot of people mixed lead acid under the hood and agm batts as 2ndary batts with no issues for years. A 240 amp alt should suffice for a 3k amp.
- Thread Starter
- #9
Ordered a mechman 320 amp alternator instead. Saw some videos of other sundowns hitting hard with plenty power. Was thinking about getting a secondary battery but not sure if I need it or how big including the high output alternator. I was also looking for some quality line output converters too since I bought a cheap $13 one just to get it going. Saw some stingers but there's a few depending on setups. Haven't got to getting the signal before amp and haven't disconnect the other stock woofers yet. Kinda want see if I can get better sound.
Jeffdachef
5,000+ posts
Gunz That Turn on Nunz
digital sound processor Would the be best bet. You'll have the option to get much better sounding door speakers along with getting an amzing soundstage. Way cleaner signal too since they override the head unit's processing.
You're moving in the right direction with the HO alt. You should see a difference right off the bat. Additionally, your LPF is way too high. Set it to 80 and perhaps even work your way down to 60, see what sounds best for your sub stage and music taste. Also, it's better to have the sub level on the HU turned up as that will provide a better signal to the amp - you can then turn the gain down on the amp. I'd take Jeff's advice and tap into the source before the factory amp. If you're still not happy with the output with all these changes, look into audiocontrol LC7i, which offers bass restoration among other features.
- Thread Starter
- #12
As for right now, I'm not really concern about the bose speakers. Sounds pretty clean and not bad for factory. They do sound like it's filtered where the bass won't go too low or the trebble won't go too high causing the speakers to distort no matter the volume or song. Use to have an equalizer with amp powering pioneer speakers and it will have distortion if played loud. The stock head unit doesn't have a subwoofer level option. Just bass, trebble, fade, etc. with bose surround and centerpoint options. I will update once I get more work done to it but I appreciate the advices so far.
- Thread Starter
- #13
Got to the amp but couldn't find any wire diagrams. Is it possible that I could get help from Infiniti or bose support? Is there a way to test manually to see which wires is which? I'm guessing the white connector with more and smaller wires are the input and the 2 black are the output to speakers. Is there a processor or av unit (don't know if there's a difference) between this and the head unit? Thinking it might have diagram like some of those decks. When I find out which wire, is it better to tap off the input and let it go into amp still or disconnect completely? Sorry for all the questions. Haven't work on new cars.
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