New amp blew my sub, don’t know why

I didn't read through the posts, so maybe this was said before but was this while everything was operating/powered on? If so, the pop happens when the reserve power is opened up to the closing of the circuit and boom. All at once. Best thing to do to avoid this is to disconnect the negative on the battery before installing/removing any electrical components from the vehicle.

Turn everything on once its all connected. Never work on electrical components when charged. Many bad things can happen....even though many times it doesn't either. Better safe than sorry.

 
Brooklynjoy did you miss this post, was before your " everyones friggin dumb " post.

Thanks for your input:rolleyes: But if you were >than reading you would see that I also said most times it is easier to install a fuse than a battery terminal. I know this from experience.

 
Okay so IQ> than you. Yes I read the whole thing and at no time did anyone tell him that he should remove his fuse at the battery before he connects his equipment. This is the first thing you teach someone when you do this, it's easier to replace a fuse if something is wrong than your equipment. If you are going to help new people do not teach them the wrong way to do things.
Reading pwns your dumba55 again. You will notice here in post # 10, I wrote:

Not necessarily, the question is was everything powered up at the actual time of hookup?
BTW, for future reference, here is the correct path:

Speakers, rca, remote, batt +, ground. The last three are somewhat interchangeable with each other, but the first two should be like I said. Ground is usually last in case you accidentally hit the chassis of the amp with the Batt+ cable you wont make sparks and shorts.
So you can take your knowitall 15 year old self back home to mommy. Stupid people, I swear...

 
remove fuse or neg battery terminal. Both work just as well. For the sake of safety though, fuse within 18 inches of your battery and amp.

 
Okay so IQ> than you. Yes I read the whole thing and at no time did anyone tell him that he should remove his fuse at the battery before he connects his equipment. This is the first thing you teach someone when you do this, it's easier to replace a fuse if something is wrong than your equipment. If you are going to help new people do not teach them the wrong way to do things.
I think we all agreed that the freaking power cable shouldn't even be connected. If the power cable isn't connected, there is no point in pulling the fuse.

 
so the way everyones talking, repeatally lol, make sure no power is on to the amp when hooking up everything, battery/power should always be last and disconnect the main fuse (the one near my battery) before doing all of this, once everythings hooked up, then connect my fuse back and everything should work

 
so the way everyones talking, repeatally lol, make sure no power is on to the amp when hooking up everything, battery/power should always be last and disconnect the main fuse (the one near my battery) before doing all of this, once everythings hooked up, then connect my fuse back and everything should work
Almost yes with batt+(fat red one) being the very last thing hooked up. Here's the almost: If you hook up all your amps, and leave the main fuse out until the very end, when you put that fuse in you are going to get some nasty arcing due to the caps in the amps filling up. This is why ol' brooklyndouches idea was never brought up by me, because doing that can cause the fuse to possibly pop. At the very least, it's scary( a little) and can ugly up your fancydancy new fuse holder. If you instead put the fuse in, THEN hook up the batt+ terminal on the batt, the sparking will happen there instead and it will be less noticeable. Warning!! If you have been charging the batt for some reason, there may be some gases around the area of the batt which could explode. Just make sure the area is well ventilated and you will be fine.

To answer the possible question coming up: to be able to hook up the positive without any sparking you need a large resistor in line between the batt and the wire. This will cause the caps in the amps to slowly fill up thereby stopping the arcing.

This is an example of such a resistor:

photobucket-4833-1329416235520.jpg


This particular one came with a Lightning Audio 50 farad hybrid capacitor. They are available through any electronics supply type store ( think Radio Shack and the like) or your local electronics repair guy will have them or be able to order them.

 
I also said most times it is easier to install a fuse than a battery terminal. I know this from experience.
Well what I know from experience is that it's much easier to pull my neg terminal on and off, than try to gingerly slide my ANL fuse back into place without any sparking. When you make positive connections with an otherwise completed circuit, there's a good chance for sparking. That's why I started just pulling my negative terminal. Super simple, no sparks. Either method will ensure the same protection, I guess it just comes down to personal preference.

 
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