New Alt, Low Voltage issues

Idk if you'd want to do this, you probably either need to raise your engine idle or get a slightly smaller pulley. I would contact the alt manufacturer and see what they recommend. 

---------- Post added at 11:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:29 AM ----------

 

You don't want to overspin your alt at higher rpms
They recommend a 1/2 smaller belt, it already has a smaller pulley than my stock did. I'm not entirely sure what "overspinning" an alt is.

Red tops are starting only batteries and aren't designed for sustained current draw. Sounds like the alt is defective tho.
I mean, it's still an AGM though, isn't an AGM an AGM or am I mistaken?

 
I've looked it up, I can't find something definitive between say the redtop and the yellowtop other than it says its meant for starting applications.. but why? do you happen to know?
In a nutshell- Starting batteries are meant to give a short burst of high current to supply a starter for the purpose of turning over an engine. Deep cycle batteries are meant for running high powered electronics and are designed for sustained current draw and many discharge and recharge cycles. Pulling constant high current from a starting battery will overheat the thin plates inside which hurts immediate performance (insufficient voltage because it can't supply the current) as well as a shortened overall life of the battery.

You shouldn't even be using an Optima battery in the first place, they are absolute garbage to begin with.

 
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Thought everybody knew by now how crappy Optima batteries are nowadays? Not to mention the inflated pricing on them. And don't last as long as they used to.

 
Thought everybody knew by now how crappy Optima batteries are nowadays? Not to mention the inflated pricing on them. And don't last as long as they used to.
bbbbbbbutttt my neighbor's friend knows someone that works at Autozone so I can get them discounted
:rolleyes:
:rolleyes:
:rolleyes:
:rolleyes:

 
In a nutshell- Starting batteries are meant to give a short burst of high current to supply a starter for the purpose of turning over an engine. Deep cycle batteries are meant for running high powered electronics and are designed for sustained current draw and many discharge and recharge cycles. Pulling constant high current from a starting battery will overheat the thin plates inside which hurts immediate performance (insufficient voltage because it can't supply the current) as well as a shortened overall life of the battery.
You shouldn't even be using an Optima battery in the first place, they are absolute garbage to begin with.
Right, I thought I understood the difference between a starting vs deep cycle, apparently not. I thought starting batts where lead acid. So, not all AGM are deep-cycle?


Thought everybody knew by now how crappy Optima batteries are nowadays? Not to mention the inflated pricing on them. And don't last as long as they used to.
Yeah Yeah Ik, I f'd up by getting it, you told me that back when I originally got it, but its like I've got it now so I gotta use it while I can. Might as well get somewhat of my monies worth out of it.

bbbbbbbutttt my neighbor's friend knows someone that works at Autozone so I can get them discounted
:rolleyes:
:rolleyes:
:rolleyes:
:rolleyes:
Lame-o

 
bbbbbbbutttt my neighbor's friend knows someone that works at Autozone so I can get them discounted
:rolleyes:
:rolleyes:
:rolleyes:
:rolleyes:
Yeah usually the case....I can get them for 50 bucks so why not. Oh sure, go ahead and throw $$ away.

 
Right, I thought I understood the difference between a starting vs deep cycle, apparently not. I thought starting batts where lead acid. So, not all AGM are deep-cycle?



Yeah Yeah Ik, I f'd up by getting it, you told me that back when I originally got it, but its like I've got it now so I gotta use it while I can. Might as well get somewhat of my monies worth out of it.

Lame-o
Didn't see it mentioned but does your vehicle come with a PCM, where it controls voltages between alt/battery? I know some newer cars have this and you have to bypass it to prevent situations like this.

 
Didn't see it mentioned but does your vehicle come with a PCM, where it controls voltages between alt/battery? I know some newer cars have this and you have to bypass it to prevent situations like this.
I believe so, I got my codes ran today because my check engine has been on. What came up was..

P0332: Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low

P0430: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 2

 
Bottom line here is; Bump your idle speed up to 700 rpm, and possibly get a different main battery. You will be golden ...Optima batteries are not that great these days ...

OH, and AGM batteries are lead acid batteries also .... just different internal build from a flooded cell lead acid battery

 
I had a similar issue with my mechman 270 and it had to go back for a tweak. My big block idles at 700 in park which was fine but 650 in gear didn't provide enough rotor speed to turn the rectifier on. I wouldn't change the alt pulley to a smaller one cause chances are it already has a smaller one on it to begin with. Any smaller and you run the risk of exceeding the max rotor speed at high rpm when driving.

 
Bottom line here is; Bump your idle speed up to 700 rpm, and possibly get a different main battery. You will be golden ...Optima batteries are not that great these days ...

OH, and AGM batteries are lead acid batteries also .... just different internal build from a flooded cell lead acid battery
I dunno how I would increase my idle, that would dope. I wasn't aware that agms were lead acid, tells you how much I know about batteries.

 
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