need more mid bass advice

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My63bug

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My sound system seems like I need more midbass. I listen to a wide variety of music. I dig sound quality. But also like to play them nasty loud Bass songs. but I really wished I had some good snappy mid bass tones.. my current setup is below. But some of that will be changed. I'm adding a second icon (if SSA ever gets it built lol) I also have new amps coming. As far as my component amp I went with this ST-4X P - Zapco 4-Channel 480W RMS Class AB Amplifier

I'm only going to use two of the channels for the hex.. they sound real good on 100 Watts a piece. I do have a set of evil 6.5. I can return them for store credit. I was thinking I could add some mid bass speakers off the other two channels. How do I make that work. Anybody have any other suggestion. Thanks for your help dudes

 
My 6.5 are installed in the kick panels. They're sealed up in there pretty decently. With lots of sound deadening on the inside but there's not much space. I'm wondering if it's not enough
Space makes bass.

If they are designed to be installed IB and you have them in sealed kicks, you're killing them.

 
Whats IB.
Infinite baffle. No enclosure. A lot of airspace like the full inside of a door in the case of a mid. Or in the kicks with it vented into the frame or even better, outside the car.

 

---------- Post added at 09:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:08 PM ----------

 

Infinite baffle or "free air"
Not free air. IB does not have a back wave. Free air is not a good thing

 
cutting into my door panels is not an option... it's carpeted on the other side ofkik panal. Also insulated and sound deadend.. I cpuld..pull the screws from the back of the kick panels. Put longer screws in them with some spacers two open the back of the enclosure up.. at least do it to one side and see how it sounds when I switch from left to right..

 
cutting into my door panels is not an option... could I pull the screws from the back of the kick panels. Put longer screws in them with some spacers two open the back of the enclosure up.. at least do it to one side and see how it sounds when I switch from left to right
If you want real mid bass you need way more then you are wanting to give up.

If that's the case you should look at a sub that can play higher.

A good low inductance woofer can play up to 140hz and still not be localized.

But they are not cheap. And often need airspace. My Q will do it but it needs almost 2 cubes.

Illusion C can do it but they are $500/$700.

 
My sound system seems like I need more midbass. I listen to a wide variety of music. I dig sound quality. But also like to play them nasty loud Bass songs. but I really wished I had some good snappy mid bass tones.. my current setup is below. But some of that will be changed. I'm adding a second icon (if SSA ever gets it built lol) I also have new amps coming. As far as my component amp I went with this ST-4X P - Zapco 4-Channel 480W RMS Class AB Amplifier
I'm only going to use two of the channels for the hex.. they sound real good on 100 Watts a piece. I do have a set of evil 6.5. I can return them for store credit. I was thinking I could add some mid bass speakers off the other two channels. How do I make that work. Anybody have any other suggestion. Thanks for your help dudes
to be honest, Big red flag is your head unit/processing. You have no capability to tune to make things sound good with that head unit along with it having low quality convertors which is pretty crappy sound from the start.

2nd is you using passive crossovers. Run fully active and get more power. If you can, do a 3 way setup so one driver can fully dedicate itself to midbass 50hz to 300hz while the other driver is focused on clean midrange. Your box is tuned rather low so of course there is going to be an extreme gap in the sound spectrum with how things are setup. If you have a 2nd icon coming and want a wider range of music, do 4.5 cubes tuned to 33-35hz instead.

Also if you listen to re-bassed music, there's no midbass in it. A lot of the actual music as in highs, midrange and midbass are sacrificed in order to keep the recording clean.

If you plan on keeping it 2 way. I'd still go active and bridge a 4 channel to the midbass alone and bridge the other amp you have for the tweeters. Power makes a huge difference. Passive components might already have a built in high pass filter crossed high with a light slope just to protect the speakers as well so thats also another reason to go active along with the passive components limiting power to the drivers along with having crossover points not fitting your vehicle acoustics.

 
to be honest, Big red flag is your head unit/processing. You have no capability to tune to make things sound good with that head unit along with it having low quality convertors which is pretty crappy sound from the start.
2nd is you using passive crossovers. Run fully active and get more power. If you can, do a 3 way setup so one driver can fully dedicate itself to midbass 50hz to 300hz while the other driver is focused on clean midrange. Your box is tuned rather low so of course there is going to be an extreme gap in the sound spectrum with how things are setup. If you have a 2nd icon coming and want a wider range of music, do 4.5 cubes tuned to 33-35hz instead.

Also if you listen to re-bassed music, there's no midbass in it. A lot of the actual music as in highs, midrange and midbass are sacrificed in order to keep the recording clean.

If you plan on keeping it 2 way. I'd still go active and bridge a 4 channel to the midbass alone and bridge the other amp you have for the tweeters. Power makes a huge difference. Passive components might already have a built in high pass filter crossed high with a light slope just to protect the speakers as well so thats also another reason to go active along with the passive components limiting power to the drivers along with having crossover points not fitting your vehicle acoustics.
I thougjt i had a solid head unit... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif . New enclosure will be around 5cubes. Tunned 34. Or what ever sounds best. Aeroported with adjustable port length.. perhaps i sell the hex..kimstall tje ssa 6.5 get the ssa evil tweets and a mini dsp??

 
I thougjt i had a solid head unit... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif . New enclosure will be around 5cubes. Tunned 34. Or what ever sounds best. Aeroported with adjustable port length.. perhaps i sell the hex..kimstall tje ssa 6.5 get the ssa evil tweets and a mini dsp??
those evils need A LOT of power to get going FYI. But a DSP will work wonders.

 
The Hex are more then capable. Swapping drivers won't fix anything. That's chasing your tale.
The evil are 4ohm 125 rms. The amp i orderd is 100x4. At 4ohm.. does that give me 200watts per side if i go active?I already have the ssa 6.5s. I wanted to run ssa comps initially anyhow.. ill see what i can do to get the mids the proper airspace. Ill just need to get creative..

 
The Hex are more then capable. Swapping drivers won't fix anything. That's chasing your tale.
The evil are 4ohm 125 rms. The amp i orderd is 100x4. At 4ohm.. does that give me 200watts per side if i go active?I already have the ssa 6.5s. I wanted to run ssa comps initially anyhow.. ill see what i can do to get the mids the proper airspace. Ill just need to get creative..

 
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My63bug

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