Need help with fi btl 18n specs

so AQ a relaible brand? How come they list 2200 instead of 2200 RMS, kinda confusing since you cant tell if they are talking about peak or RMS and the amp is so cheap haha.

and i dont have the subwoofer yet im trying to plan everything out before i buy this stuff.

 
companies that put out peak ratings and then rms ratings are just BSing you...

and are you buying the woofer directly from FI? if so you can choose what coil configuration you want because they def give you a few options.

 
companies that put out peak ratings and then rms ratings are just BSing you...
and are you buying the woofer directly from FI? if so you can choose what coil configuration you want because they def give you a few options.
So DD is bsing everyone? Peak ratings are just marketing. I guarantee a company that puts peak ratings sells more than a company that doesn't.

 
companies that put out peak ratings and then rms ratings are just BSing you...
and are you buying the woofer directly from FI? if so you can choose what coil configuration you want because they def give you a few options.
So DD is bsing everyone? Peak ratings are just marketing. I guarantee a company that puts peak ratings sells more than a company that doesn't.

 
BSing as in its just extra information to sell a product, yes. im not saying they're lying about how much the power the amp will actually put out... either way it comes down to knowing your **** so you can short through the BS.

 
it depends on the stock electrical system. if you have a 120 amp stock alternator and run an extra battery in the back you may be fine. run 1/0 wire. or you can do what some idiots on here say to do and and add a bank of 20 caps to the trunk that are useless.

simplest way to get over power issues is ad a decent battery in the trunk with a battery isolator, and upgrade to a high output alternator.

 
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