Need help with Crossovers - Silver Flute's Vifa tweets

[smgreen20 10+ year member]

I'm not certain, but I'm sure he knows. I do know that he's trying not to spend a whole lot, so buying the RCA filters is cheaper then buying a .new 3 way xover.

 

[fasfocus00 5,000+ posts]

I need the woofer to cut out at 3500hz so it plays 80-3500hz. I can set a high pass so it does not play below 80 but i dont see how i can set a low pass at 3500hz

i have an Audiocontrol 2XS that is crossed at 3.6kHz. you could use this and on the low pass side set your amp to high pass at 80hz and this would accomplish what you're looking to do.

 

[vaiboy 10+ year member]

Just replace the Soundstorm crossover. This Lanzar will do what you want and it's not too expensive.

Lanzar OPTIX3B

Blue light illuminated control panel

Removable covers for power and in/output ports.

Rotary control knobs

12dB per octave crossover slopes

PWM power supply

Subwoofer mode switch

Remote bass boost (0-+18dB) and level controls

Variable subwoofer frequency control 40-400 Hz

Variable high-pass frequency control (mid-range) 40-800Hz

Variable low-pass frequency control (mid-range) 2k-7 kHz

Variable high-pass frequency control (40-8 kHz)

X1, X10 high pass frequency multiplier-switch

Parametric "Q" control (0-20)

Left and right mid range phase shift control (0-180)

Variable bass boost frequency control 25-250 Hz

Band pass/ high pass mid range control switch

Subwoofer stereo/mono mode control

Mid/high & sub RCA inputs

High, mid & sub RCA outputs

Variable output level controls, 8 volts

Dimensions : 6"W x 1.75"H x 12.75"L

$79 at OnlineCarStereo

 

[Drummer65 10+ year member]

I might just go with the Lanzar OPTIX3B, i didn't think i could find a 3 way crossover that cheap. The Lanzar only has a Sub input and Mid/high input not separate inputs for mids and highs. Will splitting that 2 channel's into 4 channels affect sound quality?

 

[vaiboy 10+ year member]

It shouldn't have any effect on the sound quality. Technically the source is only two channels (CD, Radio, MP3), even if the head unit has 6 or 8 channels of output it is just splitting the original two-channel (stereo) source. In your case, the Clarion EQ only has a 2 channel input so everything after that is split anyway. The fader on your EQ wont do anything, but you will be able to control the subwoofer level from the EQ. The only way it would cause a problem is if your head unit had time alignment, but it doesn't look like you have a head unit with T/A, so you should be all set.

 

[Drummer65 10+ year member]

That makes perfect sense; didn't even think about the original stereo source being split in the first place. Just ordered it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Drummer65 10+ year member]

Hey guys got my Optix-3B and I can tell my front stage is sounding a lot better. There were a few controls however that I needed some help with. I have a dedicated Sub input so the Sub mode switch should be selected to "Direct" not "Mix" correct? Also the Q selector ranges from 2-20, what does that do and what should it be set at? Finally I can tell that my left side speakers are louder then my right. The crossover has Phase Shift for separate Left and right controls ranging from 0 to 180 degrees. What should those be set at if I can tell the left side is louder and reaching my ear first?

Thanks for the help guys

 

[vaiboy 10+ year member]

Hey guys got my Optix-3B and I can tell my front stage is sounding a lot better. There were a few controls however that I needed some help with. I have a dedicated Sub input so the Sub mode switch should be selected to "Direct" not "Mix" correct? Also the Q selector ranges from 2-20, what does that do and what should it be set at? Finally I can tell that my left side speakers are louder then my right. The crossover has Phase Shift for separate Left and right controls ranging from 0 to 180 degrees. What should those be set at if I can tell the left side is louder and reaching my ear first?
Thanks for the help guys

Use "Direct" for the sub.

The crossover has a parametric bass boost, if you aren't using the remote bass boost just ignore the "Q" and "Bass Freq." Your amp and subs will probably last longer without the bass boost anyway.

The phase shift is just something you will have to play with, start them both at 0 and try adjusting one at a time until it sounds good.

 

[Drummer65 10+ year member]

Oh i see the Q is just for bass boost and how wide or narrow the cut off freq is, I thought it was for regular cut off freq as well.

I will mess around with the phase settings but can someone explain to me what im actually doing when im moving the degree from 0 to 180?

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

Honestly, the easiest way to do all this is to just buy an active HU, then you don't have to worry about all of this other BS. If you don't care about iPod connectivity, there's an Eclipse 8053 in the classifieds for under $200. It has better SQ than the deck you're using now, and will do all of the crossover, eq, and t/s work that you'll need for a 2-way + sub system. You won't have to mess with anything on your amps. Just set your gain where you need it and let the HU do all of the processing for you.

 

[vaiboy 10+ year member]

Oh i see the Q is just for bass boost and how wide or narrow the cut off freq is, I thought it was for regular cut off freq as well.
I will mess around with the phase settings but can someone explain to me what im actually doing when im moving the degree from 0 to 180?

This image should help you understand phase shift.

Say the image represents a 1Khz sound wave, the blue line has 0º of phase shift the pink line has 180º of phase shift. If you decrease the degrees of the phase shift on the pink line it will shift to the left of the graph, the peaks of the blue and pink lines will move closer together. Phase shift really isn't the best way to fix timing issues but it might help, and can reduce cancellation.

You might also consider raising the high-pass filter for your tweeters to 5khz, above that level it isn't as easy to localize. Then the only timing issues will be from the mids and it should be a little easier to deal with.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

I'd go with the 3500 Hz.
Those Flutes play very well into the upper end for mids that size. Protection of the tweeter too is a plus.

Wow! I just looked up the freq resp on those tweeters, 777-25k Hz. You shouldn't have any issues with the 2500 Hz filters. It's really your call. We all prefer different sound and have different budgets. I really don't think that the tweets will play that low, but ???

Just because a tweeter says it is rated for 777hz doesn't mean its a good idea to run them that low. With tweeters, the lower the freqs its demanded to play, the less output you can sustain before risking blowing them. In other words, if the tweets are run at 3500hz+ you could play them louder than if you run them at 2500hz+. Technically just about any tweeter could play 20hz, but it wont play it very loudly before damage occurs. I dont know of any standard round diaphragm tweeter that can realistically play below 1khz with any authority. Even most horn tweeters wont play that low.

 

[Drummer65 10+ year member]

So in theory I should leave the right side at 0 degrees and start increasing the left side till they are in phase? or should i leave the left side at 0 degrees and increase the right

 

[vaiboy 10+ year member]

You want to delay the speaker that is the closest to you.

 

[Drummer65 10+ year member]

Okay, generally for a car would you delay the left side closer to 90 degrees or 180? The adjuster on the Lanzar seem's like it has a variable adjuster from 0 to 180. Also Should the subwoofer be shifted 0 or 180 degrees