Need help plz picking a sub for my pick up truck

Not sure where the .25 ohms load you are reffering to as posted, 1 dvc4 you can run at 2ohms,8ohms, and one coil 4ohms(1/2 power,and not recommended), and a pair at 1ohms,4ohms,16ohms. Really? so 4ohms sounds the same as running at 1ohms? Id like to hear that side by side:eyebrow:I really dont believe ther is any really SQ in bass ?

Whats ohms would you like to be at will determine the kind/ciols subs you will need to buy as well as the amp can stabilize at

 
I just put a DVC4ohm 10 in a SAS Bazooka bass tube at a 2ohm load behind the pass seat for the sub, and placed the amps behind the drivers seat, and worked out GREAT.I put that 10 on an old school Autotek BTS 7050/44watt amp at 2ohms, and an Old school Alpine Duo-b 3522 on a pair of Infinity 6.5Kappas components, and the sub sounde GREAT! And Mids n highs as well.Pretty loud for a simple set-up.The truck was a single cab, and the bass was felt outside the truck, inside my brick home from the drive way and was set at 1"oclock position 0 bass boost ,and 3 on treble knob:D

 
Not sure where the .25 ohms load you are reffering to as posted, 1 dvc4 you can run at 2ohms,8ohms, and one coil 4ohms(1/2 power,and not recommended), and a pair at 1ohms,4ohms,16ohms. Really? so 4ohms sounds the same as running at 1ohms? Id like to hear that side by side:eyebrow:I really dont believe ther is any really SQ in bass ?Whats ohms would you like to be at will determine the kind/ciols subs you will need to buy as well as the amp can stabilize at
i beg to differ.stop messing with audiobaun and get some real quality subs and you will hear some sq with hard hitting bass. seems to me everytime i see you post something 8 out of 10 times your talking out of your ***. i shouldnt be surprised as your user name is audiobaun

 
Not sure where the .25 ohms load you are reffering to as posted, 1 dvc4 you can run at 2ohms,8ohms, and one coil 4ohms(1/2 power,and not recommended), and a pair at 1ohms,4ohms,16ohms. Really? so 4ohms sounds the same as running at 1ohms? Id like to hear that side by side:eyebrow:I really dont believe ther is any really SQ in bass ?Whats ohms would you like to be at will determine the kind/ciols subs you will need to buy as well as the amp can stabilize at
Whoops, I misread your post as 1/4 ohm since that's pretty much how you wrote it. And there is definitely SQ in bass, I heard a noticeable difference going from my CVRs to my TC9 15, there was no comparison. The TC9 **** all over them on SQ. Heard a solo X setup and it was pretty loud, but the SQ wasn't too great. I think your system actually sounds like crap as do all your friends and to you it sounds good, and you've just never heard a good sounding system.

He should just find an amp that does its power at 1 ohm. It will save him time and money than trying to find an amp that does it's power at another load. Either get 2 dual 4 ohm subs or 1 dual 2 ohm sub.

I just put a DVC4ohm 10 in a SAS Bazooka bass tube at a 2ohm load behind the pass seat for the sub, and placed the amps behind the drivers seat, and worked out GREAT.I put that 10 on an old school Autotek BTS 7050/44watt amp at 2ohms, and an Old school Alpine Duo-b 3522 on a pair of Infinity 6.5Kappas components, and the sub sounde GREAT! And Mids n highs as well.Pretty loud for a simple set-up.The truck was a single cab, and the bass was felt outside the truck, inside my brick home from the drive way and was set at 1"oclock position 0 bass boost ,and 3 on treble knob:D
After reading this, it makes me think my first assumption about you is true. I don't see a 10" sub in a bazooka tube on 44 watts being remotely close to getting loud or even sounding that good either. And listing what your treble/bass boost was is completely pointless as you shouldn't use bass boost to begin with anyway nor will adjusting the treble affect the subwoofer.

OP I suggest you disregard anything else audiobaun says as he really has no clue to what he's saying.

 
That 44 watt amplifier happens to be a cheater amp /Zed Amp, and will produce an enormus amount of power than todays amplifiers, along with Quality/tdh, and db ratings.It will, and has pushed a pair of 400rms 15s with authority at 2ohms bridged...I have 2 of those amps for sale if youd like to buy one and try it out for yourselves.Or do some home work on Steze Mantz/Zed Audio, and find out just really where true power lyes, along with SQ.That subs sounds BA in that truck ,and hits beyond 135db, as my meter goes into error after 135.Not too shabby for 44 watts, and 1 ten in a simple Bazooka space saving/light weight enstallement, at a 2ohms load.And only 8.ga power supply was all needed to supply the old school SQ amps,As for my system/systems, they sound GREAT!ALL old school Zed Made amps, and discontinued power house (4,1000rms 2ooopk subs on 200watts slaved).My S h i t sounds just fine.Does everyone need to run at a 1ohm load these Days?And spend a Crap load on upgrading theyre electrical to achieve the true rms ,or stay stock and retrieve only a portion of the amplifiers rms power???//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/awesome.gif.4430a219d9aaaa6cadc75e9290979dfb.gif I have been in car audio since 89, and have done just fine with all my systems, and even get complimented on my own installs, as well as doing others, and car audio shops have always asked who installed it, and how the hell can that amp be pushing those, and sound this FKN loud???//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/boink.gif.91933e72f927f2cefc79aff02573090c.gif

 
That 44 watt amplifier happens to be a cheater amp /Zed Amp, and will produce an enormus amount of power than todays amplifiers, along with Quality/tdh, and db ratings.It will, and has pushed a pair of 400rms 15s with authority at 2ohms bridged...I have 2 of those amps for sale if youd like to buy one and try it out for yourselves.Or do some home work on Steze Mantz/Zed Audio, and find out just really where true power lyes, along with SQ.That subs sounds BA in that truck ,and hits beyond 135db, as my meter goes into error after 135.Not too shabby for 44 watts, and 1 ten in a simple Bazooka space saving/light weight enstallement, at a 2ohms load.And only 8.ga power supply was all needed to supply the old school SQ amps,As for my system/systems, they sound GREAT!ALL old school Zed Made amps, and discontinued power house (4,1000rms 2ooopk subs on 200watts slaved).My S h i t sounds just fine.Does everyone need to run at a 1ohm load these Days?And spend a Crap load on upgrading theyre electrical to achieve the true rms ,or stay stock and retrieve only a portion of the amplifiers rms power???//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/awesome.gif.4430a219d9aaaa6cadc75e9290979dfb.gif I have been in car audio since 89, and have done just fine with all my systems, and even get complimented on my own installs, as well as doing others, and car audio shops have always asked who installed it, and how the hell can that amp be pushing those, and sound this FKN loud???//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/boink.gif.91933e72f927f2cefc79aff02573090c.gif
I find it hard to belive you've been in car audio that long. You post some of the stupidest things ever. And you must fail at reading. The dude probably isn't going to run much power so why he would have to spend a ton on electrical makes no sense. I'm sure 20 feet of 1/0 gauage wire would be all he needs for the big 3 and thats not even much money. Even going by your logic, if he were to run a lot of power, say 2500 watts, you're saying he would be fine at 2500 watts if it was at a 2 ohm load but he would have to upgrade his electrical if he was running 2500 watts @ 1 ohm. Either way at 2500 watts he'd have to upgrade his electrical.

Like I said, you post stupid *** things that make no sense whatsoever. I've only been in car audio since like 2005 and I don't say the stupid things you do.

 
Audiobaun, If you are using a cheater amp, why would you say you are pushing your sub with 44 watts. First off, its probably 44x2 at 4ohms (not real clear on the amp), then bridge it and run at 2 and you are most likely lookind at 200+. Then its a cheater and under rated, yet you claim its so loud with 44 watts. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif

When i ran my orion hcca250 (50 watt amp by your logic) bridged at 1ohm I would say i am running 800watts, because thats what the amp puts out bridged at 1 ohm.

 
I find it hard to belive you've been in car audio that long. You post some of the stupidest things ever. And you must fail at reading. The dude probably isn't going to run much power so why he would have to spend a ton on electrical makes no sense. I'm sure 20 feet of 1/0 gauage wire would be all he needs for the big 3 and thats not even much money. Even going by your logic, if he were to run a lot of power, say 2500 watts, you're saying he would be fine at 2500 watts if it was at a 2 ohm load but he would have to upgrade his electrical if he was running 2500 watts @ 1 ohm. Either way at 2500 watts he'd have to upgrade his electrical.
Like I said, you post stupid *** things that make no sense whatsoever. I've only been in car audio since like 2005 and I don't say the stupid things you do.
every time he posts stupid ****. every time i see his name i say great what did this dip **** say now? i know i dont know everything but i read and i am learning as much as i can. i dont say 99% of the stupid **** he says

 
I drive a reg cab, if i were you ide go one 10 ported or one 12 sealed. Get a SA10 ported or a SD12 sealed. port noise is driving me crazy so ide go sealed. Also look at the Dayton HO 12, 700wrms great sealed sub gets loud. It would fit

 
View attachment 26528996 The blue and silver one,at the right.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif Whats wrong with 4ga run?Why would he have to go to the expense of running 0ga??MOOOOOORE MONEY spent.??05 huh? LOL! Says it all rt there..Have you even Experienced what I have?Ive used every amp in my pics, and Have installed several systems, as well as had more than you guys could spend you lunch money on in the next decade.I post what works, and has worked for me even the cheapest simplistic ways that alot of people have not experienced,and blows/analyzes to an extreme, as though only putting in a couple of systems(maybe)make them Ienstien/Experts.I learned by experiencing, as there were no Forums to ask questions about this or that, as car audio was just becoming a new Experience for all, and learned by experiencing/doing/that you guys have never done.Car audio was a new trend/becoming an uprising , as the computor world has, and I am happy to say that, I was one of those that experienced Legendary Power/USA made Power and still have the collection that of True Power of some of the most BA amps that made car audio what it is today rather than the Cheap China mde crap that is being used withing todays Overpriced /Goughed money pits that Are within the Purchased market of today.S trash me as you may, yet,I know that I will be just fine at the end of my day grinning at those whom run Trash/Jap Crap in your vehicles today, and need to Spend a S h i t load of money on to achieve the power that old school legendary power exceeds upon.I can take my Autotek Mean Machine 99, and out perform that 15 , that that POS Onyx Crap being ran on, prob in a hatch without the proper airspace, that a pair of tens could out perform, within the same.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif So Go Fu yourselves, and do some home work, and actually experience something on your own without question, with what you think you know that you are telling others without having experienced yourselves:boink:

 
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