Need help choosing Tweeters!?

[JW266]

I've got a Phoenix Gold Ti5 comp set in my doors minus the tweeters... ? I picked up some cheap Sound Stream tweeters from Frys but they're just not blending right. From what I've read I think I'm in need of a silk dome tweeter to get away from the harsh and piercing sound. But which ones would go well with the PG 5.25" mids? Id like to stay around the $50 mark, if I have to go up a bit to get a much better speaker I will but no more than $100 tops. Also some tweeters come with small crossovers and some dont. Should I run the small crossover even though it's coming off the big PG crossover? Or do I just wire straight to the PG crossover? Thanks!

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I've got a Phoenix Gold Ti5 comp set in my doors minus the tweeters... ? I picked up some cheap Sound Stream tweeters from Frys but they're just not blending right. From what I've read I think I'm in need of a silk dome tweeter to get away from the harsh and piercing sound. But which ones would go well with the PG 5.25" mids? Id like to stay around the $50 mark, if I have to go up a bit to get a much better speaker I will but no more than $100 tops. Also some tweeters come with small crossovers and some dont. Should I run the small crossover even though it's coming off the big PG crossover? Or do I just wire straight to the PG crossover? Thanks!

image dynamics XS 28 would be a good match. Should be okay with the pg crossover but if you want proper sound you'll need a good head unit that can run active and has 13 or more bands of EQ if you want any halfway decent results.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

Mixing and matching tweeter brands with component systems like yours is not a great idea, but for ~$100 these are the best I've heard: CDT Audio DRT-25

Very nice midrange and smooth treble.

 

[JW266]

image dynamics XS 28 would be a good match. Should be okay with the pg crossover but if you want proper sound you'll need a good head unit that can run active and has 13 or more bands of EQ if you want any halfway decent results.

What do you mean by running active? I've got a Pioneer DEH-6700BS. The new amp I just hooked up (NVX JAD900.5) has a BPF (Bandpass Filter) that is selectable for the front channels (full, HPF, BPF) the manual just says that it's to run component systems as active and let's the electronic crossovers in the amp take over? But doesn't say anything about how to wire the speakers for it? Also I'm running everything through a Massive Audio EQ7 that I picked up for cheap, really just wanted the remote bass control and it was like $10 more than any of the sub controllers I could find.

 

[JW266]

Mixing and matching tweeter brands with component systems like yours is not a great idea, but for ~$100 these are the best I've heard: CDT Audio DRT-25Very nice midrange and smooth treble.

Definitely not my first choice. But I got the comp set for free along with some subs and an amp which sparked my interest in building the system in my moto van in the first place. It already sounds a million times better than it did with the cheap SSL 5x7 running off the HU that I had originally put in. The real problem is the music... METAL METAL METAL. Which is already harsh by nature. Rap or hip hop or pop all sounds great. Eminem is pretty harsh on his "S's" but I can just EQ it out. Do that with a 6 man band and you lose an entire instrument!

 

[slikrider20 10+ year member]

What do you mean by running active? I've got a Pioneer DEH-6700BS. The new amp I just hooked up (NVX JAD900.5) has a BPF (Bandpass Filter) that is selectable for the front channels (full, HPF, BPF) the manual just says that it's to run component systems as active and let's the electronic crossovers in the amp take over? But doesn't say anything about how to wire the speakers for it? Also I'm running everything through a Massive Audio EQ7 that I picked up for cheap, really just wanted the remote bass control and it was like $10 more than any of the sub controllers I could find.

It means getting a 4 channel amp and running your tweets/mids on separate channels and ditching the passive crossover. Get a HU like the Pioneer 80PRS and you can make all the adjustments you could possibly want to.

 

[JW266]

It means getting a 4 channel amp and running your tweets/mids on separate channels and ditching the passive crossover. Get a HU like the Pioneer 80PRS and you can make all the adjustments you could possibly want to.

That HU won't fit. I've only got a single DIN opening inmy 95 E150 and I'm not tryna get into cutting up the dash. Is that what that bandpass setting is for? I would run the tweeters on the rear channels HPF and the Mids on the front channels bandpass which let's me set both a LPF and HPF?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

That HU won't fit. I've only got a single DIN opening inmy 95 E150 and I'm not tryna get into cutting up the dash. Is that what that bandpass setting is for? I would run the tweeters on the rear channels HPF and the Mids on the front channels bandpass which let's me set both a LPF and HPF?

the 80 prs is a single din head unit and if your 6700bs fits, the 80 prs will fit right in just fine. Your current head unit is not a good head unit. The internal DAC and circuitry is weak(which means poor quality sound from the start) and has basically zero Real sound tuning capabilities especially with only a 5 band EQ and no time alignment.

You can run active with your nvx amp but you'll need to ditch the crossover however you'll still have poor time alignment issues and nothing to do about it. Also, doing the crossover with the amp, you cannot be precise and accurate because you dont know if you are at a specific frequency on a knob or not, its all guestimation while going active crossovers with an active capable head unit will have precise crossover points and you can change the slopes as well while the amp only has a fixed crossover point which is extremely limited.

I listen to metal and i know exactly what you've experienced. Its mainly tuning. I've done loads of speaker swaps and never completely solved the issue however I swapped the head unit to an 80 prs and it made garbage speakers sound good, and good speakers sound amazing. The head unit makes the biggest difference in sound quality because it actually allows you to do a proper tune with your current gear.

 

[JW266]

the 80 prs is a single din head unit and if your 6700bs fits, the 80 prs will fit right in just fine. Your current head unit is not a good head unit. The internal DAC and circuitry is weak(which means poor quality sound from the start) and has basically zero Real sound tuning capabilities especially with only a 5 band EQ and no time alignment.
You can run active with your nvx amp but you'll need to ditch the crossover however you'll still have poor time alignment issues and nothing to do about it. Also, doing the crossover with the amp, you cannot be precise and accurate because you dont know if you are at a specific frequency on a knob or not, its all guestimation while going active crossovers with an active capable head unit will have precise crossover points and you can change the slopes as well while the amp only has a fixed crossover point which is extremely limited.

I listen to metal and i know exactly what you've experienced. Its mainly tuning. I've done loads of speaker swaps and never completely solved the issue however I swapped the head unit to an 80 prs and it made garbage speakers sound good, and good speakers sound amazing. The head unit makes the biggest difference in sound quality because it actually allows you to do a proper tune with your current gear.

It looked like a single. But the site I looked it up on said double. Sooo.. what yall are saying is there isn't a similar tweeter that could complete this set? And to make a different tweeter work I have to add even more adjustments to spend hours upon hours tinkering with? Maybe I'll just steal the Polk coaxial out of my truck. I just wanna bang my head!

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

It looked like a single. But the site I looked it up on said double. Sooo.. what yall are saying is there isn't a similar tweeter that could complete this set? And to make a different tweeter work I have to add even more adjustments to spend hours upon hours tinkering with? Maybe I'll just steal the Polk coaxial out of my truck. I just wanna bang my head!

the site is utterly stupid then. Its a single din and always has been.

What you are talking about with praying and choosing a tweeter to fit that particular set is not feasible. EVERY tweeter on the market needs different crossover points and are WAY too different. You dont even know the crossover point of the passive crossover in your set either so you have ZERO clue on how to find the proper tweeter and niether does anyone else. Instead of Trying to make stuff fit in places it wont. You are better off doing things THE PROPER WAY. Where you can buy whatever tweeter you want, Ditch the passive crossover and choose your own crossover points to match your vehicle's acoustics and get things sounding GREAT and avoid these headaches from overthinking and overstressing about the wrong methods.

 

[JW266]

the site is utterly stupid then. Its a single din and always has been.
What you are talking about with praying and choosing a tweeter to fit that particular set is not feasible. EVERY tweeter on the market needs different crossover points and are WAY too different. You dont even know the crossover point of the passive crossover in your set either so you have ZERO clue on how to find the proper tweeter and niether does anyone else. Instead of Trying to make stuff fit in places it wont. You are better off doing things THE PROPER WAY. Where you can buy whatever tweeter you want, Ditch the passive crossover and choose your own crossover points to match your vehicle's acoustics and get things sounding GREAT and avoid these headaches from overthinking and overstressing about the wrong methods.

I found something onine that says the "seperation frequency is 3khz w/24dB crossover? I'm sure I'll pickup a 80prs in the offseason or after I sell off some of this other stuff I'm not gonna use. But today I grabbed the kicker 6x9s in small sealed boxes from behind the seat in my truck and tossed em in the van just behind where the rear seat would be and it definitely chilled out the knife in the ear drum from the crash cymbals. I'm wondering if there's some weirdness with having the 5x7s in the rear doors so far away? Or just the added size of the 6x9 masking it?

New question... if I hookup my other 4 ch. And bridge the 6x9s (they want 150w each, my Kenwood 4 ch. Is rated at like 75 or something lame) will it sound garbage since I'll lose the stereo in the rear? I'd like to keep the rear door speakers going for when the rear doors are open and I need to have a mosh pit in the pits.

 

[JW266]

Also noticed that with the volume on the EQ all the way down to where no sound is coming from speakers the tweeters are hissing. Might dump the eq now that this NVX amp has seemed to clean things up a bit?