My only hope for bass - Any ideas for how I can run subs in this location?

Joey Link
10+ year member

Junior Member
I have a 1980 International Scout which I'm in the process of upgrading. One of the 'must haves' this summer is a decent stereo setup, and I'd like some bass to round out the system. Considering the top will be off for a few months, security is obviously a bit of an issue. Lack of space is also a problem, I'd rather have camping gear or more friends in the back than a sub box. My idea to kill both of these birds with one stone is to somehow come up with a custom install inside the bucket seat pedestals. Since these bolt to the floor and can be secured with security bolts, they'd be difficult to steal and they wouldn't be taking up any space in the cabin. My goal with this system is sound quality, though I do like the music loud for listening when we're out on the beach or camping.

My experience with car audio is beginner at best. I've installed head units and speakers with factory wiring but that's about it. No amps, no subs, never built a box, etc. However, I have a few friends who are into it, so whatever we come up with they can help me implement. For those of you who are asking why I don't just ask them; I always like to get a wide consensus, especially considering most of them are partial to one brand or type of setup. For one reason or another I'm partial to 'boutique' brands rather than the major brands, don't ask me why //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

The dimensions of each pedestal in the shortest spots are 6" tall, 14" wide, and 13" long. Below are photos of each seat pedestal to help you guys get an idea. I've also included a photo of the Scout, in case you guys are wondering. I'd appreciate any and all ideas you guys have as to what type of setup would be best as well as which specific subs I should look into running.

ssp01.jpg


ssp02.jpg


ssp03.jpg


ssp04.jpg


I already have the 4" Suspension Lift, 1" Body Lift, Polyurethane Body Bushings, 33" BFG Mud Terrain Tires, Round Headlight Conversion, and much more sitting in my garage waiting for install //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

1980%20International%20Scout%20001%20%28Medium%29.JPG


 
I'd be looking for some 10s with soft suspensions (that will work in a small box)... I'd probably also consider getting creative and down firing the subs rather then have them fire into the seat which will kill output...

A little MDF and some fiberglass should turn those seat boxes into bass cabinets in no time !

 
6" x 13" x 14" is definitely big enough for a small sealed box and a 10" shallow-mount subwoofer. I'd suggest Pioneer TS-SW2501 since its mounting depth is only 3" and it doesn't protrude on either side. Not sure if you have two or four of those seat anchors but even just two of those 10s and at least 300 watts going to each of them should sound really good. JL Audio just came out with a tiny 600 watt subwoofer amp that's about the size of a bible book so you can tuck it out of the away.

As far as building the box... you can probably get away with using 5/8" MDF to save some space(just make sure all the joints are glued and screwed) and stuff the sealed box with as much polyfill(pillow stuffing) as possible to increase the internal box volume that the woofer "sees."

 
There is such a thing as too much polyfill. I would definitely use some but not as much as you could possibly fit in the box. At a certain point it starts to have a negative effect on your sound.

 
There is such a thing as too much polyfill. I would definitely use some but not as much as you could possibly fit in the box. At a certain point it starts to have a negative effect on your sound.
I thought that's only true for ported boxes, that it may end up blocking the vents? I guess I didn't mean it like stuff it until it becomes rock hard but ya know, enough to make a difference.

One pillow from walmart should fill up two of those boxes.

 
Man guys, I'm really excited now. I think the biggest challenge is going to be constructing the box and the fact that the bases are actually slanted. I'm not sure if the degree of the slant is going to prevent me from running 10" subs due to the magnet hitting one of the slopes, but if I have to run 8" subs that's fine with me. What are the best 8" and 10" subs currently available that don't require much space?

 
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Joey Link

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