My new subs aren't hitting as hard as they used to a week ago...

[hatedonmostly 5,000+ posts]

You are getting use to the loudness //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

Yes, in most cars, the bass will be louder with the windows down instead of up //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

Your lights are dimming because your alt will charge your battery at a lower voltage during the summer, so when you drop, you will drop lower than you were months ago //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 

[ascitiesburn69 10+ year member]

Do you have a trunk car? Because that would be exactly why it doesn't hit as hard with the windows up......My trunk car loses (no exxagerration) at least 6dbs with windows up versus windows down.

 

[Carnivorous18 10+ year member]

SPLaudio, yes, I just noticed that everytime I'm using my AC that's when the bass isn't hitting as hard! I'm usually driving with my windows down which is when it sounds normal, but for the rare times I use AC is starts sounding like crap! So i'm guessing that this big 3 upgrade will solve all of that. Thanks for all the info guys. One more quick question about the big 3. I have some spare cheap 0 gauge wire that I ordered from ebay. Do you suggest that I do the big 3 with some true name brand 0 gauge wire, or it doesn't matter? And also would it be best to take out my cap or should I just leave it in?

Ditch the cap itll only do more harm than help. Id do the big 3 in an at least known brand. I did mine by 0 gauge from Soundquest and it was fine. I got it from wsgs_fortvalley (i think thats how to spell it) on here for like 25bucks and that included the wire, terminals, fuse and fuse holder. And besides the big 3 usually doesnt have to be super long lengths of wire. My batt to chassis was 2ft, engine to chassis was 2ft, and alt to batt + was I think 5 or 6 feet. KnuKonceptz is a good brand too