Quite a few moons ago, I mentioned that I wanted to install a door lock switch - the reason being that the Valet 712T keyless entry system locks all the doors as soon as you turn the ignition, with the result that if somebody wanted to climb in afterwards, I had to virtually dislocate my shoulder trying to open up the other doors //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif !
Well, I bought a normally horizontal sunroof switch for about $57. I had my first problem, however...the switch uses a fiber optic cable for its illumination, and as far as I could tell, I didn't have any "ports" open for an additional optic cable. So, off to the junk yard I went to buy a rear-door window switch and did some minor transplant surgery between the two switches.
With that sorted, I had to try and figure out how I had to connect the switch with the keyless module. I think I had it sorted for the most part, until I had to connect the window-aka-sunroof-aka-door-lock-switch to the module. I though I knew which connectors on the window switch to use, but I was too lazy to walk the few feet back to my room to double check the wiring diagram. Well, I ended up frying the locking circuit of the keyless module and a few of the door lock motors...another $70 literally up in smoke (and there was quite a bit of smoke, let me tell you!) //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif .
So, I ordered another module from the US, this time triple-checking everything. I also connected the horn-honk output. I have a proper set of horns, and let me tell you, when you press the panic button on the remote, it makes a good few decibels //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif ! In total, I used six relays in addition to the module.
I actually wanted to use insulated crimps for those relay ends, but for some strange reason none of the outlets I tried, had red insulated female crimps in stock. I'll tape those ends shortly!
Well, the switch works great (it's the second one to the left, if you're wondering)...I just wonder whether it was worth all the effort!
P.S. Those crimp connections are SOLID! If you can't pull apart a crimp from its wire with a set of pliers, I believe the connection to be quite solid. I must say that the crimping tool on the left doesn't compare to the one that I use on the right - I think it's the best crimping tool for insulated crimps.
Well, I bought a normally horizontal sunroof switch for about $57. I had my first problem, however...the switch uses a fiber optic cable for its illumination, and as far as I could tell, I didn't have any "ports" open for an additional optic cable. So, off to the junk yard I went to buy a rear-door window switch and did some minor transplant surgery between the two switches.
With that sorted, I had to try and figure out how I had to connect the switch with the keyless module. I think I had it sorted for the most part, until I had to connect the window-aka-sunroof-aka-door-lock-switch to the module. I though I knew which connectors on the window switch to use, but I was too lazy to walk the few feet back to my room to double check the wiring diagram. Well, I ended up frying the locking circuit of the keyless module and a few of the door lock motors...another $70 literally up in smoke (and there was quite a bit of smoke, let me tell you!) //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif .
So, I ordered another module from the US, this time triple-checking everything. I also connected the horn-honk output. I have a proper set of horns, and let me tell you, when you press the panic button on the remote, it makes a good few decibels //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif ! In total, I used six relays in addition to the module.
I actually wanted to use insulated crimps for those relay ends, but for some strange reason none of the outlets I tried, had red insulated female crimps in stock. I'll tape those ends shortly!
Well, the switch works great (it's the second one to the left, if you're wondering)...I just wonder whether it was worth all the effort!
P.S. Those crimp connections are SOLID! If you can't pull apart a crimp from its wire with a set of pliers, I believe the connection to be quite solid. I must say that the crimping tool on the left doesn't compare to the one that I use on the right - I think it's the best crimping tool for insulated crimps.
