My first box pics

Is that wood bowed or is it just the camera? i'd suggest carpeting it instead of painting, to cover up gaps and such....
Yeah, sorry its the camera I am using a webcam so its not great on quality at all, and the box has dark pencil markings, gotta go and get rid of those markings

push it with the rated power.. u dont want to blow a sub that expensive..whats that box tuned to?
yeah hehe, The box will be tuned around 35hz

Yes but i do believe a 12w7 is dual 1.5ohm coils (the 13 is so im assuming the 12 is too) so he will be pushing a 3 ohm load. The hifonics bx1000d does 350 at 4 ohms and 700 at 2 ohms so it will be getting about 525. On JL's website they recommend a 1000/1 which will definatly put out about twice the hifonics if not more. Not trying to be a dick just giving my 2 cents because the 1000/1 on my 13w7 doesn't push it to xmax i do have the gains relativly low though.
thanks for the input //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsupwink.gif.129404938effda6ad9cca39e7f4b58a3.gif

u mentioned that your amp was coming in the mail. if i were you i wouldnt open it. i forget what the ikesound.com return policy is, but i'm sure they'd be fine with an exchange for a 1500 or 1800 hifonics. one of those should give you the wattage you need. W7s have that funky 3 ohm dvc, and its hard to find a reasonably priced amp for it.
No I did not order my amp yet, and thanks for the input, I think I will get the 1500 HiFonics amp so, how much power I will be running to the W7 if I get the 1500 HiFonics amp?

I had the exact set and broke the exact same bits............then I went out and bought the same set again, lol......... then broke 4 of them
btw, nice box

lol aw that sucks man, now I know what bits to buy.. = The expensive ones,

thanks, Ive spent all week on this box

The hole is quite off-center, and the top piece looks warped.
Yeah I know, shoots, I hope this doesn't effect how it sounds and I hope it doesn't change the tuning:uhoh:

well you can see his problem look in the second pic, on the right side its higher than the middle and the port side is also higher, creating a bow in the wood. wont matter much i dont think but looks bad
Yeah there was a small gap on the right side of the box opposite from the port, I have a really hard time keeping the jigsaw straight when I cut the boards so it ended up like that, thank goodness the gap dissapeared when I screwed the top together, I just put some extra silicone inside the box in that area and put some wood glue on the outside area, hope it holds:crap: thanks for saying that my box looks bad //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

can anyone recommend a good #6 countersink. dont mean to ruin the thread but the topic of crap bits was brought up alot.
Thanks for the input, I was going to buy the countersink bit but I wasn't sure what it does at the time, but now I know what it does, it sinks the screws so they are even with the wood

Looks good for a first box. I built a W7 box to JL spec for my friend only I did it with a fiberglass face. It is going to pound pretty good in there but your amp if def. too small. I know a few people with W7's and they need a lot of power. The JL amps are a perfect match for the subs, they are a bit pricey but if you can afford it go with the 1000/1. My boy did a 144.4 dbs in competiton with that setup and it sounded crystal clear as well. I have even seen a 500/1 pushing a 12 W7 but the amp heated up a lot. Check out my sounddomain page there are some pics of the W7 box that I made on there. My Sounddomain Page
Thanks man, Your box is nicer though:thumbupw:, after you primered the box, what black glossy paint is that?, looks nutz, nice pics at sounddomain, your boy hit 144.4DBs? dang, thats pretty **** loud
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Yeah there was a small gap on the right side of the box opposite from the port, I have a really hard time keeping the jigsaw straight when I cut the boards so it ended up like that, thank goodness the gap dissapeared when I screwed the top together, I just put some extra silicone inside the box in that area and put some wood glue on the outside area, hope it holds:crap: thanks for saying that my box looks bad //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
You should use a circular saw for long straight cuts...but regardless of the type of saw, there's an easy way to get a straight cut every time. Get your cut lines marked up, then take your saw and measure the gap between the blade and the edge of the saw. Make another line this distance from your original cut line; make sure you put it on the correct side. If you measured from the blade to the right edge of the saw, mark the new line on the right side of your cut line and vice versa. Then clamp a level or a long piece of MDF or what have you (all that matters is that it's rigid and straight) along your new line. Now you have a guide for your saw to follow to get a straight cut every time.

Or you could get a tablesaw. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
You should use a circular saw for long straight cuts...but regardless of the type of saw, there's an easy way to get a straight cut every time. Get your cut lines marked up, then take your saw and measure the gap between the blade and the edge of the saw. Make another line this distance from your original cut line; make sure you put it on the correct side. If you measured from the blade to the right edge of the saw, mark the new line on the right side of your cut line and vice versa. Then clamp a level or a long piece of MDF or what have you (all that matters is that it's rigid and straight) along your new line. Now you have a guide for your saw to follow to get a straight cut every time.
Or you could get a tablesaw. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Oh, okay thanks for the tip man:thumbsup:

 
Yes but i do believe a 12w7 is dual 1.5ohm coils (the 13 is so im assuming the 12 is too) so he will be pushing a 3 ohm load. The hifonics bx1000d does 350 at 4 ohms and 700 at 2 ohms so it will be getting about 525. On JL's website they recommend a 1000/1 which will definatly put out about twice the hifonics if not more. Not trying to be a dick just giving my 2 cents because the 1000/1 on my 13w7 doesn't push it to xmax i do have the gains relativly low though.

The 12w7 is a svc 3 ohm sub not dvc 3 like the 13w7.

 
lol gauntlet... now that jmacs away, are you the dream killer now?? :p
btw wat are the specs of that box??
The box is built to the JLs 12" W7

boxspec23go.png


still thinking about the off center hole though, is it going to screw the sound up?

 
Thats perfect! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsup.gif.3287b36ca96645a13a43aff531f37f02.gif thanks alot by the way

It's cute that you think the hifonics amps do rated power lol.

W7s are underrated, you have to be pretty stupid to blow one with rated power or a little over.

I say save up for a better amp.........

 
It's cute that you think the hifonics amps do rated power lol.

W7s are underrated, you have to be pretty stupid to blow one with rated power or a little over.

I say save up for a better amp.........
lol yeah, I know they are overrated amps and for the W7s, this guy at our car audio shop has a 13.5" W7 in a huge ported box running off a Viper Audio d2500.1 amp to 1.5 ohms, and it sounds soft

 
lol yeah, I know they are overrated amps and for the W7s, this guy at our car audio shop has a 13.5" W7 in a huge ported box running off a Viper Audio d2500.1 amp to 1.5 ohms, and it sounds soft

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/hilarious.gif.02a037aad04aa96f19982b298a3d70a8.gif sorry peeps, I ment LOUD not soft

 
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