Motorhome transformation

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Hey folks,

With festival season just around the corner I've decided to finally get a sound system so we can bump tunes in the campsite and have a little after party area. I've never had one before so it's all new to me I've been doing research for the past month or so, just kind of figuring out the basics.

I've got a 1990 Dodge Islander motorhome which I have a solar panel rig going in soon so I'm hoping to get both installed at the same time. I came here for some guidance.

I'm able to get most things at cost but here is what I am thinking.

H/U - Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS

Front and Rear Speakers- Pioneer TS-D1720C 6.75

Subwoofer- 10W3v3-2

Amplifer- Apline MRX-V70

I don't have time to install it myself so I was hoping to buy the above and head to a shop. I've been told I need an amp kit, dash kit, speaker wires, etc so I will be looking into those. I was hoping to get the shop to make an enclosure for my sub and keep the price of equipment, custom enclosure and installation for under $2000. I've heard $50 a piece is a fair price for installation but the front tweeters will have to be custom mount so I can see it being a bit extra.

Sound deadening I'm not too familiar with, thinking the front speakers in the doors will need some, rear speakers are in wood book like cabinets.

I'm not sure how power works but I have my main cranking battery for ignition/charging the house batteries and with the solar unit I will have 2x AGM 6v batteries wired in series to make a 12V. Lifeline Batteries - Marine & RV Deep Cycle Batteries

If anyone has any suggestions, both my ears are open.

So with the equipment I have listed I think I can get iot all for under $1000

Then the custom enclosure and installation price, and he gear I haven't looked into as I'm still not sure what I need (dash kit, wiring harness, amp kit, etc) I'm hoping to keep that under $1000 as well.

Sound possible?

 
Space will be at a premium inside the motorhome and i have no idea where you would stuff the enclosure that 10w3 needs to rest in, me thinking more like a couple of free air subwoofers like the Kicker 10C104's mounted in the kick panels under the bench seats..

Kicker 10C104 Comp 10" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com $140 for 2 of them..

MEASURE FIRST AND MAKE SURE THEY WILL FIT.

NVX-JAD900 5-channel class D full-range

NVX JAD900.5 (JAD9005) 900W RMS Full Range Class D 5-Channel Car Amplifier

2 pairs of the same speakers at half the price

Pioneer TS-D1720C 6.75" D-Series Component Car Speakers

 
I wouldn't go with powered subwoofers. You'll be dissapointed for the amount of money you paid. How much room are you willing to dedicate? I figured there is plenty of room in a motorhome. As for the price, it should be well under $2k. Hopefully the shop doesn't charge you too much...

If you plan on playing music with the engine off on a cloudy day, you may need another battery. Not sure if the electrical system would be able to charge another battery though. An efficient amp will be key for this setup.

What kind of music is going to be played on the system?

I've gtg, but quote me if you want another response. It'll show up on my notifications.

 
I wouldn't go with powered subwoofers. You'll be disappointed for the amount of money you paid. How much room are you willing to dedicate? I figured there is plenty of room in a motorhome. As for the price, it should be well under $2k. Hopefully the shop doesn't charge you too much...
If you plan on playing music with the engine off on a cloudy day, you may need another battery. Not sure if the electrical system would be able to charge another battery though. An efficient amp will be key for this setup.
Here is a link to the interior of his motorhome, it is cramp city and absolutely no room for a standard sub enclosure, any enclosure will have to be integrated into the existing structure, hence the suggestion for free air subwoofers. And yes, full-range class D amplifier design to minimize current draw.

Used Dodge Islander for sale in Parksville, Vancouver Island

 
An idea I have is to take the door off a big cabinet, seal it up good, screw a sheet of MDF on it, and mount your sub in that. I don't know how important the cabinets are to you, but I think that would be a good spot.

 
What kind of music is going to be played on the system?

I've gtg, but quote me if you want another response. It'll show up on my notifications.
Thanks for the replies guys.

It's a real shame there isn't a system that plays both jazz and dubstep well. I'm jazz kinda guy on the way home from work but I am really getting the system for electronic dubstep, hip hop. The vision is to take the rig to music festivals, and have a little oasis where I cook pancakes for neighbours in the morning and have a little after hours party camp at night.

Solar Elite Charging System (320 watts) | GPElectric

2x Lifeline Batteries - Marine & RV Deep Cycle Batteries wired in series to create a 12v will be my house batteries.

That's the electrical system I am looking at. So I will have the main 12v cranking battery and the two 6v house batteries.

I'll look into the subs you posted gstokes. There's a few options. I don't think I can seal up the big cabinet because I need that space. There is however the kick panels under the seats, unfortunately only the one side is available due to the water tank being under the other side. However what about subs in the back door panels? I haven't really taken a close look.

The other idea that is going through my head now is there's a small vertical space between the big cabinet and the back doors where I could possibly stack a few subs? I'll post a picture, as there isn't much width. (The basket gives you an idea)

View attachment 26548739

 
Space will be at a premium inside the motorhome and i have no idea where you would stuff the enclosure that 10w3 needs to rest in, me thinking more like a couple of free air subwoofers like the Kicker 10C104's mounted in the kick panels under the bench seats..Kicker 10C104 Comp 10" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com $140 for 2 of them..

MEASURE FIRST AND MAKE SURE THEY WILL FIT.

NVX-JAD900 5-channel class D full-range

NVX JAD900.5 (JAD9005) 900W RMS Full Range Class D 5-Channel Car Amplifier

2 pairs of the same speakers at half the price

Pioneer TS-D1720C 6.75" D-Series Component Car Speakers
That's another question I have for you. I've heard mixed reviews of buying off non authorized dealers as the factory warren you is void if you do. It's a risk I'm willing to take to save the extra cash. I can get most home audio brands at cost (pioneer, kenwood) but JL and stuff I'm out of luck so I'll be searching for good deals.

 
Thanks for the replies guys.
It's a real shame there isn't a system that plays both jazz and dubstep well. I'm jazz kinda guy on the way home from work but I am really getting the system for electronic dubstep, hip hop. The vision is to take the rig to music festivals, and have a little oasis where I cook pancakes for neighbours in the morning and have a little after hours party camp at night.

Solar Elite Charging System (320 watts) | GPElectric

2x Lifeline Batteries - Marine & RV Deep Cycle Batteries wired in series to create a 12v will be my house batteries.

That's the electrical system I am looking at. So I will have the main 12v cranking battery and the two 6v house batteries.

I'll look into the subs you posted gstokes. There's a few options. I don't think I can seal up the big cabinet because I need that space. There is however the kick panels under the seats, unfortunately only the one side is available due to the water tank being under the other side. However what about subs in the back door panels? I haven't really taken a close look.

The other idea that is going through my head now is there's a small vertical space between the big cabinet and the back doors where I could possibly stack a few subs? I'll post a picture, as there isn't much width. (The basket gives you an idea)

View attachment 26548739
You could put a few decent 12's between the big cabinet and back door. Make sure the mounting depth is short enough on them. Facing them towards the back door would be the best setup. The closer you can get the cone to a solid wall, while not allowing it to touch will give you the best bass response. You chose if you want a sealed or ported box. I think sealed would be best for this.

Another good setup would be an inverted mount subwoofer on the back door. I don't know how big it is, but get the biggest sub you can fit on it (15 or 18). First, take the existing trim off. Mount a sheet of MDF with a cutout for the sub and door handle.. Seal the inside really good to prevent air leaks. Cover the outside with felt if you want. Put a bunch of Polyfill or similar synthetic pillow stuffing in the enclosure (its pretty cheap). Mount the driver with the magnet facing out and be sure to reverse the polarity of your wiring.

Add or subtract polyfill on either enclosure until desired response is achieved. Either one of those would be pretty good.

The power situation is something I'm still worried about. You may need to add an extra battery if you plan to play music a lot when the system is not charging. A simple voltage meter and switch off ebay may be a good idea too. Mount it somewhere you can easily see. When you play your system, turn it on and make sure the voltage doesn't get too low. If it does, charge it or turn the music off. You could fry your amp...

 
You could put a few decent 12's between the big cabinet and back door. Make sure the mounting depth is short enough on them. Facing them towards the back door would be the best setup. The closer you can get the cone to a solid wall, while not allowing it to touch will give you the best bass response. You chose if you want a sealed or ported box. I think sealed would be best for this.
Another good setup would be an inverted mount subwoofer on the back door. I don't know how big it is, but get the biggest sub you can fit on it (15 or 18). First, take the existing trim off. Mount a sheet of MDF with a cutout for the sub and door handle.. Seal the inside really good to prevent air leaks. Cover the outside with felt if you want. Put a bunch of Polyfill or similar synthetic pillow stuffing in the enclosure (its pretty cheap). Mount the driver with the magnet facing out and be sure to reverse the polarity of your wiring.

Add or subtract polyfill on either enclosure until desired response is achieved. Either one of those would be pretty good.

The power situation is something I'm still worried about. You may need to add an extra battery if you plan to play music a lot when the system is not charging. A simple voltage meter and switch off ebay may be a good idea too. Mount it somewhere you can easily see. When you play your system, turn it on and make sure the voltage doesn't get too low. If it does, charge it or turn the music off. You could fry your amp...
I wish I wasn't in too much of a time crunch as I have just over a month before we take off to the music festival and I feel there is so much I need to learn. I'll look into the battery options, These batteries I'm looking at don't come cheap ($300 a 6volt). I do have a 12v deep cycle I'm using now for a house battery so there might be a way to include that I'm just not very knowledgable when it comes to if I'm able to wire in a 12v with the 6volts. Something for me to look into.

I'll have to measure the space between the cabinet and back door but I do like the idea of having them there. The enclosure could be built using the existing wood?

Now keeping my $2000 budget in mind, now I'm wondering if I could fit three 12's back there. Other then that now I should be looking for a 4channel amp for my front and rear speakers and a separate amp for the subs.

Doing some quick budgeting and I think I have around $700-800 for the subs, and the two amplifiers needed. You guys have already been such a big help, if you have recommendations I'm open. Otherwise I'll post when I get a chance to sit down and search a few options.

 
700-800 bucks is doable. Yes, you could use the existing wood as one of your box sides.

As for the battery, get a cheap 12v and wire it in parallel with a fuse

 
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