More likely to dim on 2ohm vs 4ohm? or no matter.

[silenkiller 10+ year member]

I'm trying to figure out if the reason my lights don't dim is based on that I have a JL 1000/1v2 thats supposed to be really efficient. I want to sell it and get a different amp thats still 1000 rms, but I'm nervous that it will draw more power or something than my 1000/1v2. Is this dumb for me to think?

Same with the title, are you more likely to dim running 2 ohms than 4 ohms with the same wattage?

Click to read more...

 

[qkassidyw 10+ year member]

If its the same wattage then it will pull the same amount of current.

If you went from a 4 ohm sub pulling 300 RMS to a 2 Ohm sub pulling 600 RMS then you would have more draw on the electrical system...but in your case it will be the same current.

P=V*I

P=Power (In watts)

V=Voltage

I=Current

If voltage and power stay the same then current has to stay the same, its ohms law mutha sucka!

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

Wattage is wattage. The ohm load is not even a factor at all. If you have one amp that is rated to make 1000W RMS at 2 ohms and another that is rated to make 1000W RMS at 4 ohms, they are identical as far as electrical loads are concerned. They both make 1000W RMS.

Now if you have two amps that are identical and you run one amp at 4 ohm and the other at 2 ohm, you most likely will see a difference in electrical load, but that is because amps usually make more power (watts) with a lower ohm load. That amp might make 500W RMS @ 4 ohm and 1000W RMS @ 2 ohm.

There are some amps that make the same rated power at 2 and 4 ohms. Some of the Alpine amps I have seen make the same power either way. It all depends on the amp.

 

[silenkiller 10+ year member]

Thanks. I was concerned that I may be kicking my electrical in the balls if I go to 1000 watts 2ohms (different subs) than my current 1000 on 4 ohms.

 

[germandark 10+ year member]

the only thing you need to know or worry about is a change in current and voltage. wattage and ohm load (impendence) are usually not suspects for dimming.

 

[PioneerSPL1990 10+ year member]

get a 5 farad cap that should be enough to stop it. it worked on my old car. oh and BTW i have 2 for sale. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=389649

 

[loopkiller 10+ year member]

get a 5 farad cap that should be enough to stop it. it worked on my old car. oh and BTW i have 2 for sale. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=389649

If they work for you, why are you selling them. Why is it only people who are selling caps are recommending them? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

 

[badvlvo 10+ year member]

I only use caps on old cars with mechanical voltage regulators or Mopars into the late 80's as a buffer so that the voltage regulators don't cook. Other than that caps are worthless in my opinion. I use one in my 1980 Volvo 240 as it has the mechanical regulator and the system has cooked 2 of them. Installed the cap and no more cooking the regulator. Same situation in my former Mopar vehicles. If you have dimming lights you need more alternator, more battery, better wiring or a combination of any of these.

If your lights DON'T dim when the bass hits then what is the problem?