Monoblock Amp Issues. PLEASE HELP ME!

LaidD3athl0rd
10+ year member

Member
Hello there,

I am in desperate need of any answers that may help!

First of all, I have had an audio system completely installed for over 2 years now. I have not changed, tinkered or mucked around with anything to disturb operations.

I have a SoundStream Rubicon 2500D Amp that runs (3) SoundStream T7 10" woofers. The woofers are wired to a 1.3ohm load and its always been fine nothing wrong there.

However, about a week ago my bass knob light turned off and in conjunction the amplifier will not produce any sound to my woofers.

All the fuses are checked and fine, the amp is on, the protection light is off so its hard to trouble shoot for problems considering it doesn't seem to think it has a problem.

I have checked the voltage at the amp and its stable 12-14.4 on/off.

I have also tried multiple different rca leads and tried input signals from alternate headunits and my phone and i get nothing....

I literally have no idea whats wrong???

The amp even gets to operating temperature as if its doing something..

Please Help. Thank you.

 
Since I have the same amp, I'd say that bassknob went caput....no longer working would be my guess.

Imo, get rid of the bassknob. Is your speaker wires from the amp to the subs hooked up? Silly question but sometimes and have heard of them falling off or even disconnected.

Mine aslo came with the bassknob but left mine in the box.

 
Thank you for your replies.

I tested the terminals with a multi meter and unfortunately i have no power //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

What can i do? I am savvy with a soldering iron and electronics but i couldn't see anything on the internals that looked damaged/fried.

Do you know what it is?

Thank you. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
Sorry, the amp is on 100%.

I mean i tested the speaker terminals like you said and i received nothing //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
I have opened it up again. If you have had a look into your own 2500D then you can see the speaker terminals are very heavy duty and i cant imagine anything would have come loose?

i dont know where to start, it all looks pretty fine?.

 
Id say it sounds like you dont have a whole lot of experience with amps at this point,and you may mess something up or damage the amp.Do yourself a favor and YANK it and take it to a local car audio shop and have them bench test it@2/4 and 1 ohm loads for operation.It may cost you $20-50 bucks..some will test it for free if they have the time.If you have some experience, then you should be able to yank it and set up a testing bench yourself without any problems.We can throw all kinds of HOW TOs at you, but may never really know the actual cause/issue without being present.Saving time and trying to figure out whats going on,its best to yank it from the car and bench test it to find out if its the amp itself, or an issue with your vehicle wiring or subs.Subs can be checked with a dmm easily by ohm load disconnected from the amp.It could be as simple as the connection from the subs came loose in the box to the terminals that go to the amp from vibration/poorly connected.

 
I have already tested for all of these possibilities, the woofers have a combined resistance of 1.6 which is aimed at 1.3 ohm load but you'll always get a bit of play over the space of wiring 3 woofers. i have made a test bench up using completely new wiring, a new head unit and new speakers. I think its quite clear its something to do with the speaker terminals.

Because when i measure the terminals i receive nothing, the resistance also stays the same which should vary with the music and power output.

Also i cant even purposely get it to go into protect mode, i tried purposely shorting the speaker terminals by connecting a wiring from one to the other and even then the protect light wouldn't come on.

It must be something with the speaker terminal electronics, its as if they are not connected to the rest of the circuit.

The protect light should come on under thermal, short and voltage issues. its not getting hot so it cant be thermal, the voltage on the test bench is a consistent supply from a charger at 13.8v, and like i said i purposely cant even get the protect light to come on under shorting the speaker terminals. very odd.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
Terminals must have gotten too hot on the board and the solder joint can unattatched.Prob just need to resolder back to the board sounds like.You can take a small flat tip screwdriver or a pick and see if the connection moves freely from the board.It shouldnt move at all or even slightly.Id check that out.Im sure the amp isnt under warranty since you have cracked it open an broken the seal.

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

About this thread

LaidD3athl0rd

10+ year member
Member
Thread starter
LaidD3athl0rd
Joined
Location
South Australia
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
13
Views
1,133
Last reply date
Last reply from
CSCStang
1778578257023.png

Glen Rodgers

    May 12, 2026
  • 0
  • 0
Screenshot_20260511_212804_Amazon Shopping.jpg

Blackout67

    May 11, 2026
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top