Mono Block amp question

[SicAudio 5,000+ posts]

the correct math you need to figure it is this:

ohm resistance per coil ® / loads or coils (L) = final impedance

so 4 / 6 (he has 6 - 4 ohm coils) = .666666666666666666666 or more easily said .67 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

or 2 / 3 = .66666666666

hope that helps you.

series is very simply:

r1 + r2 + r3 ect.....

and dont worry we all have to learn sometime. so dont be offended at all. I like to help educate ppl but come off a lil bit strong sometimes, so I hope you were not offended by it.

 

[UrbanSounds 10+ year member]

I thought that the L7s 15" were 1000 watts rms and not 750.

So if i install the 2600watt brutus to the three Type Rs 12" using the stock battery and alt. would I have problems. Its going in an 04 tahoe. Or am I better off using the 2000 watt brutus.

Thanks

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

3 DVC 4's

Each set of 4 goes to 2

3 2's as I learned it

is 1 divided by 2 or .5 + .5 + .5 = 1.5 take the inverse = .75 for your final load.

But I am old and could be wrong.

The actual formula for parallel resistances is

1/(1/r1 + 1/r2 +1/r3...) = Rt

Or 1/(1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4 + 1/4) = 1/(6/4) or 4/6 or 2/3 or .67 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif See, wasn't that easy? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

But when all the loads are equal, like multiple subs/coils usually are it's just R of the load/# of loads --- 4/6 = 2/3 = .67

 

[SicAudio 5,000+ posts]

yeah i used the shortcut version for him to understand easier, and because they say never to mix ohm ratings so i get used to doing it that way //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 

[SicAudio 5,000+ posts]

I thought that the L7s 15" were 1000 watts rms and not 750.
So if i install the 2600watt brutus to the three Type Rs 12" using the stock battery and alt. would I have problems. Its going in an 04 tahoe. Or am I better off using the 2000 watt brutus.

Thanks

my bad sorry i thought it said 12" L7. but a 2600 is still pushing almost 300 watts morethan the subs rated rms power .

the 2010d is a better amp for stock electrical, and you should still get at least an hc600 or for bt20 agm type battery to help out.

the 2010d draws upto 200 amps the 2600 draws upto 250

I have a bnib 2010d for 330 shipped on the classifieds you can buy an hc600 at sonicelectronix really cheap : about 120 plus shipping, they retail at 190+

 

[SicAudio 5,000+ posts]

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=401479

 

[bigbangtheory 5,000+ posts]

doesn't matter what positive or negative you use, they are connected to each other inside the amp. whoever told you that is an idiot.as far as the sub blowing the amp, I find that pretty impossible, but why would you connect a 750 watt sub up at 2600 watts? even at 2 ohms that amp is way too much for an L7 sub, the biggest we use for the L7's is the 2000 watt brutus and they have never "fried" an amp.

you really need to educate yourself before you try to do this on your own. no offense.

and just so you know that amp will fry unless you have a very beefy electrical system. it requires 250 amps of current all by itself. if the amp blew before at 1 ohm it is because it was dropping voltage extremely low.

2-4 hc 600 batteries ( or equivilent ) and at least a 200 amp alternator.

that amp is not for the uneducated at all. it also requires at least o guage wire and an external 250 amp fuse as well. it has no internal fuses.

I am running a BXi 2608d with 0g wiring through out on a redtup up front and a powermaster 5100 with 2 in-line 250a fuses and no big 3 or H/0 alty and my lights don't dim whatsoever and I don't have huge voltage drops. Why is that? Amp is running 2-ohms, so maybe that is why.