Mono amp Help

528hz
10+ year member

Everything'sMiscellaneous
Newbie here......

But not new to stereos. I used to be into the audio scene back in what I would call the good old days (late 90s). I always was an Orion, JL and Rockford guy, but coming onto this forum I've been finding out about other brands I never knew were of such quality. I do know how to search and have done so quite a bit. Now to my dilema.....

I currently have a 12w3 running off a piece of s&*%t Audiobahn amp, and now it's time to go big again. I want to do either a MMATS Pro-Cast, Treo TE or 12w6 in a ported box that is already tuned to 33hz. This is in a Mercedes CLk by the way. I want to know what amp you all would suggest even maybe a different sub. I tried to get a PPI PCX-1500 off Ebay, but lost the auction. Any suggestions? I want a sub and amp match up that will maximize SPL, but still have good SQ. Thanks in advance.

 
Anyone want to help me start studying to get my bachalor's in "good" brand recognition? I'm just now starting to learn about all these quality brands such as MMATS, TREO and all the others. Although I did have one DD 12" at one point and loved it ported.

I've got to start somewhere...

 
Thanks for the reply. Well, I would like to run anywhere from 1000-1500. I pretty

much want to run the biggest thing I can with out having to up grade the electrical

system or add batteries. I do understand the difference in the A,B and D class amps

and figure I might could get away with an A/B for cleanliness.

I know I've read and heard from people (and not sure if it's true) "a watt is a watt"

no matter the components or processing method within the amp itself. I don't really believe that

philosophy ( and not sure if I could electrically back that up in an argument), but maybe I'm wrong. Any

suggestions?

 
Hifonics BXi-1206D or -1606D, Kicker 1000.1 or 1500.1

Anything along those lines maybe..? Might want to find your final impediance as well before you go spendin' money. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

-Bill-

 
Thanks for the reply. Well, I would like to run anywhere from 1000-1500. I pretty
much want to run the biggest thing I can with out having to up grade the electrical

system or add batteries. I do understand the difference in the A,B and D class amps

and figure I might could get away with an A/B for cleanliness.

I know I've read and heard from people (and not sure if it's true) "a watt is a watt"

no matter the components or processing method within the amp itself. I don't really believe that

philosophy ( and not sure if I could electrically back that up in an argument), but maybe I'm wrong. Any

suggestions?


If you want to run stock electrical, you would be better off sticking with a class D for your sub. Class a/b will pull more current than a mono D amp. MMats and Treo subs have great reputations for SPL and SQ depending on which model you were looking at. You could put a kicker 1500.1 on a treo SSI and that would be a great sounding system with a lot of umpff.

edit: what size sub were you looking at?

 
fi, mmats, re, dd, treo all have great subs how many ft^3 of air space u got in the mercedes will factor in as well u said 33hz tuned but how much space ya got

imo stick w/ a class d amp if your concerned with power concerns

find an amp that has good efficency and see how amps they pull to see how much strain u will have on ur factory charging system,

find an older mmats amp d50hc, d100hc,d200hc or d300hc 1400.1, .2 depending on ur sub impendence these are all great class d old schools that have round 90% EFF that wont kill ur electrical

i just say these cause ive owned all of them including new mmats d2200.05 x2 (thought these arent as good or efficent os the older ones)

sure someone else could tell you some other good amps

 
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