Mixing different brand sub and enclosure?

[LongThrow]

In my last topic I asked how to install a subwoofer into an enclosure (didn't know the simplicity, I'm a newb)

KICKER 10TC104 10" 300W TC104 Loaded Car Audio Subwoofer + Sub Box Enclosure:Amazon:Electronics

This is what I have. Would it be a bad idea to replace this 10 inch sub and put it into this kicker enclosure, with another 10 inch 4 ohm SVC sub maybe a pioneer or a cheap alternative that, surprisingly, I've heard great reviews on. It's a Pyle. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00022OBRE?cache=d580410f116442f091900979c603f83d&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412192158&sr=8-4#ref=mp_s_a_1_4

Click to read more...

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

In my last topic I asked how to install a subwoofer into an enclosure (didn't know the simplicity, I'm a newb)
KICKER 10TC104 10" 300W TC104 Loaded Car Audio Subwoofer + Sub Box Enclosure:Amazon:Electronics

This is what I have. Would it be a bad idea to replace this 10 inch sub and put it into this kicker enclosure, with another 10 inch 4 ohm SVC sub maybe a pioneer or a cheap alternative that, surprisingly, I've heard great reviews on. It's a Pyle. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00022OBRE?cache=d580410f116442f091900979c603f83d&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412192158&sr=8-4#ref=mp_s_a_1_4

You can put any sub into any enclosure. Whether or not it would sound good or get loud totally depends on the subwoofer enclosure specifications.

Complete and utter downgrade man. Pyle subs are garbage. The reviews are from people who've never had a sub before or just people that dont know any better. What do you want out of your system? loud or what?

what amp do you have?

How much space do you want to give up?

Whats the budget?

 

[LongThrow]

I don't really NEED loud bass, 'loud' is a very loose term IMO in car audio. I'm only using a (very old bewt up) sony xm502z. I believe in bridged it only puts out maybe 100-125w RMS into 4 ohms.

I feel I'm more into sq but that doesn't mean I don't enjoy prominent deep bass, like in dubstep or rap.

I'm now t looking for the loudest top of the line wallet burning equipment. Just enough to get me by on a budget entry level set up. I'm using a 1994 ford explorer xlt and space isn't too much of a problem.

I'd say the most I can spend on a new amp would be around 100. I've found some amps that I've been told are ****** for less than 80 bucks on amazon but say they have adequate power for a sub like the kicker I had.

What would sound good in this enclosure, my kicker (found just the sub for 55 bucks) or a different 10 sub? Compared to the low low value of 55 dollars.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

whats missing from your system right now as in what part of the bass are you not happy with?

A lot could be gained with a stronger amp. A fully powered sub with headroom will surprise you.

this would be a decent amp for you, their 4 channel amps have been tested to do proper power so its not junk tier like boss, pyle, pyramid, power acoustik, soundstorm labs/ssl, crunch(avoid these like the plague) Precision Power PPI i450.1 iON 450W Monoblock Class-D Amplifier

If you want deeper lower notes then you'd want to change your enclosure into a properly built PORTED enclosure. You cannot buy a ported enclosure off ebay or amazon and expect it to sound good. Thats why you'll hear people say sealed is better then ported but they cannot be anymore wrong. A proper ported enclosure will amaze you with the sound quality along with output.

For now though, get the amp would be the best choice. use your current amp to power your door speakers because thats what your current amp is actually meant to do.

Regardless of what you think, a different subwoofer wont make much if any impact in your price range if anything it'll be a degradation in sound quality and output. Most of the sound you get is actually from the enclosure, hard to believe but thats where the magic happens.

 

[LongThrow]

That amp is almost double my RMS rating, wouldn't that be overpowering it?

And is it possible to run 4 speakers on the amp I have now? Or do I need a 4 channel?

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

i agree with Jeff. a proper amp is a great investment.

besides changing the sub enclosure you can change the location/orientation of the sub enclosure and see HUGE changes in performance. corner loading a sub yields the best response in most situations - that is achieved by facing the sub towards the farthest corner of the vehicle. i can explain in detail why this works if you want to learn about room modes and phase interference.

a larger enclosure will be more efficient and as noted can really rock. if you look at the build log for this Scion xB you can see a simple system on a budget - but that single 10 was commonly mistaken for a pair of 12's.

KHA 2008 Scion xB - Alpine/Oz Audio/Xtant/ID

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

That amp is almost double my RMS rating, wouldn't that be overpowering it?
And is it possible to run 4 speakers on the amp I have now? Or do I need a 4 channel?

The amp is actually just right for your subwoofer. Your subwoofer is single voice coil 4 ohms rated for 300 watts. The amp makes 260 watts rms at 4 ohms which it will see from the subwoofer. You can always add another of the same sub and run 2 10s in the future if you so wish and it'll adequately power both subs with 225 watts going to each sub at 2 ohms.

its possible to run all 4 speakers on your amp right now, each speaker will receive 25ish watts(yeah those sony amps do not make the power they state at all. Most likely the reason why you dont like your current setup right now). Run the front left + rear left parallel on one channel and front right + rear right parallel on the other channel.

wiring diagram: Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams, Two 4 ohm Single Voice Coil (SVC) Speakers

 

[LongThrow]

Thanks for the info and advice! But my sub is 300 peak not RMS. And having two 4 ohms SVC sub's wired parallel will turn it into 2 ogm load instead of 4? Meaning I'll draw power on 2 ohms instead of 4?

IE; amp sending 300 watts into a 2 ohm load or 150watts into a 4 ohm load?

And go in depth about sub placement

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Thanks for the info and advice! But my sub is 300 peak not RMS. And having two 4 ohms SVC sub's wired parallel will turn it into 2 ogm load instead of 4? Meaning I'll draw power on 2 ohms instead of 4?IE; amp sending 300 watts into a 2 ohm load or 150watts into a 4 ohm load?

correct. you prefer to have more power than you need so the amp gains are left low and you have dynamic range.

And go in depth about sub placement

where you place the sub in a vehicle is vital. we hear sound directly from the sub and then all of the reflections off the walls/floor/ceiling/rear/etc. bass frequencies have wavelengths measured in feet (100Hz is about 10' long). when you have a reflection that is about 1/4 wavelength away (or 2.5ft at 100Hz) then the result is a cancellation (wave travels 2.5 feet to the surface than 2.5 feet back to the box - a total of 5 feet or half 10 feet). so that reflection perfectly cancels at 100Hz. this problem occurs several times in the trunk/rear of a vehicle. by placing the sub in the corner you eliminate two of those cancellations. you still get a reflection off both side and rear but they are so close it is as if you have two more sources.

it's easy to test for yourself. get some sine sweeps (20-200Hz) and play them with various sub positions. the corner will appear to be the same volume throughout the sweep while other locations will get louder and quieter in certain spots.

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

Ive known people to run subs in different enclousures to get a wider band width...They run one sealed and one tuned and ported...it didnt sound bad....

 

[mrpep]

pyles were really popular in the early 90s . I'm sure they still pound like they did back then. People just dont like them cause their is so much better out there but Im sure PYLE has some good stuff out there.

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

pyles were really popular in the early 90s . I'm sure they still pound like they did back then. People just dont like them cause their is so much better out there but Im sure PYLE has some good stuff out there.

most brands have upper and lower end stuff...and unfortunaly the brands usually get their opinions based on the low end product because thats all most can afford...but since all people cant afford the better stuff they have to offer basic low end to keep their buisnesses afloat.....

 

[mrpep]

just found this , PYLES been making woofers since the 60s.

PyleAudio.com - About Pyle

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

just found this , PYLES been making woofers since the 60s. PyleAudio.com - About Pyle

their home audio and pro audio stuff is still halfway decent. Anything related to the car though, either breaks apart, dead on arrival or goes up in smoke prematurely. Their technology, research and development is falling ages behind current companies, they see that and they cheap everything down to appeal to the masses. Absolutely poor quality control along with horror RMA stories.

There is always adequate reason why the majority trash on a particular brand.

What was good yesterday might be utter crap tomorrow, you cannot judge a company based on what it was like 10-20 years ago, that company is long dead, the new age modern day version of it is what you should base your judgements on.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Thanks for the info and advice! But my sub is 300 peak not RMS. And having two 4 ohms SVC sub's wired parallel will turn it into 2 ogm load instead of 4? Meaning I'll draw power on 2 ohms instead of 4?

IE; amp sending 300 watts into a 2 ohm load or 150watts into a 4 ohm load?

And go in depth about sub placement

Read up on how to set gains with a digital multi-meter. You can actually adjust how much power you are giving your subs with your gain/input sensitivity knob. How to Adjust Amplifier Gains Using a Digital Multi-Meter - Sonic Electronix Knowledge BaseSonic Electronix Knowledge Base

Its always better to have an amp that does more power because your sub will get clean power, perform to its fullest and the amp does not have to work that hard resulting it staying cool and efficient. Vs a weak amp struggling to power a sub getting overworked, hot and turning the signal into distortion which in turns blows subs and fails.