Memphis

Project: Malibu
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16-PRD500.. Would this power two Memphis PR10D4 or should I expect a purchase of two?

:veryhapp:Just learning(many years have past), so far I found out Caps and Sony Xplod shouldn't have been purchased, little late on my part though... So time to redo it all!

 
i ran those same subs on a prd 1.1000 and they took it well, way too much power but they never blew, smelled a little burning once in a while but they are still running happily in someone elses car with the same amp

 
Im awaiting on my amp!!! Cant wait to hear this things go at it.

And a pic...

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My only gripe against the PR amplifier series is that Memphis had a sub-par method of mounting the circuit board to the heat sink, and the transistor legs work their way loose over time. I had a 75.2 replaced under warranty at the 6 month mark , only to have it ruined in a car accident. I purchased a 1.5KD on another forum and it looked liked the Samsonite gorilla got a hold of the shipping box. It had some transistors that worked their way loose too....

As for the PR subs, I like them. I had a 10" PR sub that was also in ruined in my car accident, and I will have to agree that it was one of the best subs for the $$!

 
I was prepping them for when the amp came in, but with the sealed chambers not sure how im going to wire them into one Ohm... Noob to DVCs, any advise on how I can get the 2 mated together?

 
On sub 1, go + to + AND - to -; then take one of the free + tabs and run it to the RED terminal cup; finally take a free - tab and run it to your black terminal cup. At the terminal cup, you should have a 2 ohm load for the subwoofer you just connected (assuming dual 4 here).

On sub 2, repeat the same process: + to + AND - to - on the sub, then free + tab to red terminal and free - tab to black terminal. If connected properly, this speaker will have a 2 ohm load at the terminal cup that you can test with a multi meter.

Now here is the kicker... both positives on the terminal cup to the amplifier's positive and both negatives from the terminal cups to the amps negatives. Now you have a 1 ohm mono load.

ETA: if you are the visual type, click here!

 
On sub 1, go + to + AND - to -; then take one of the free + tabs and run it to the RED terminal cup; finally take a free - tab and run it to your black terminal cup. At the terminal cup, you should have a 2 ohm load for the subwoofer you just connected (assuming dual 4 here).
On sub 2, repeat the same process: + to + AND - to - on the sub, then free + tab to red terminal and free - tab to black terminal. If connected properly, this speaker will have a 2 ohm load at the terminal cup that you can test with a multi meter.

Now here is the kicker... both positives on the terminal cup to the amplifier's positive and both negatives from the terminal cups to the amps negatives. Now you have a 1 ohm mono load.

ETA: if you are the visual type, click here!

So I can wire them up one sub to one terminal cup, then the other sub to its terminal cup, then run two sets of wires from the amp(mono) to each terminal, and im right where I want to be! Thanks, exampled good enough the visual wasnt needed lol.

Now time to find a place to tune the amps, and once again time to disassemble and locate a better place to ground(amp still goes into protective mode after X volume level, turn Pioneer off and then back on and amp is working again... **** Malibu, never had this issue in the older rides lol

 
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Project: Malibu

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