MDF baffle that important?

[hondarider 10+ year member]

So i just finished deadening and ensoliting my doors. And i still think that it lacks quite a bit of midbass. I did notice a small improvement but i think it's still less than or equal to stock. My front stage is in my sig. The only think i can think of is that the speakers are mounted on the stock plastic baffle type thing. I didn't build one outof wood because the stock piece holds the speaker at an angle and it might be hard to make something that would work and it might not let the door panel fit back on tightly. So do you think that an mdf speaker baffle would help out my midbass very much? What else could be wrong? Am i just expecting too much from them?

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[spoonraker 10+ year member]

The purpose of mounting your speaker on an MDF baffle attached to the door is so that the mounting depth is reduced. The baffles are not designed to give better midbass response, they don't effect sound quality or output at all. Making a baffle will not help you.

 

[starkfu 10+ year member]

actually you can effectively reduce the loss in vibrations through metal and plastic by using a wood baffle, MDF preferably. The wood acts as an absorbant tool and keeps resonance in the form of music, rather then the high pitches of metal or the rattling of the stock plastic. It can improve sound, but unlikely you will notice a stellar difference. I would still do it, because it also helps to isolate the speaker basket from chassis ground.

 

[bikinpunk 10+ year member]

It decouples the speaker from the door panel itself and reduces vibrations.

 

[bikinpunk 10+ year member]

Also, make sure that you have sealed all holes possible, either using silicone, non-hadening modeling clay, or something of the sort. If you have holes, they will rob you of bass response. I spent over 2 weeks trying to find out why I was having my midbasses bottoming out, and realized I had a lot of screw holes from a previous install exposed. I put my finger to them and could feel the air pressure coming out. Once I sealed them up, the difference was very noticeable.

 

[Ignatowski 5,000+ posts]

if you dont need a spacer/baffle any sound deadner will suffice---

or a simple gasket will also work,thats what I use...I got a sheet of

engine gasket and made a circle wallah,vibration B Gone

 

[spoonraker 10+ year member]

the MDF baffle is purely designed to reduce mounting depth. If you are having problems with your door panel its self flexing, an MDF ring will not do anything for you. Invest in some sound deadener, and if the mounting surface its self is too flimsy, maybe put a layer or two of fiberglass on the backside of it

 

[hondarider 10+ year member]

So what else could be my problem? I just deadened my doors with raammat and ensolite and sealed up all the big holes using sheet metal covered with deadener but i avoided all small screw holes because i thought they were used by the pop clips on the door skin. The component set i have supposedly has pretty good midbass but i'm not seeing it.

 

[PatFitz9 10+ year member]

are you running enough power to them? how is your amp tuned?

 

[bikinpunk 10+ year member]

Are you SURE that the panel isn't flexing? I braced up my doors with some pieces of metal laying in my friend's shop. Used some clay between the interfaces to help reduce resonance. That helped a good deal.

 

[hondarider 10+ year member]

I have 125 watts rms going to them. And if i turn them up loud enough on certain songs they will bottom out i think and can feel air moving in front of them. There crossed at 80 hz. Any ideas

 

[hondarider 10+ year member]

Are you SURE that the panel isn't flexing? I braced up my doors with some pieces of metal laying in my friend's shop. Used some clay between the interfaces to help reduce resonance. That helped a good deal.

How would i know if it was flexing? I wouldn't think so it seemed pretty rigid when applying the deadener but i'm not sure.