Maze port box design

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Sub/port forward won't be as loud as sub up port side or up.

I can't do this design until later, but if you know how to, do a side firing @ ~34 hz.

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

It looks like the corner is close enough to the port that it's going to lengthen the actual port length and change the tuning...Unless that was intended

 

[Frito11 10+ year member]

Sub/port forward won't be as loud as sub up port side or up.
I can't do this design until later, but if you know how to, do a side firing @ ~34 hz.

will do.

It looks like the corner is close enough to the port that it's going to lengthen the actual port length and change the tuning...Unless that was intended

the area between the wall and the end of the port is greater than the port but you are right it could effect the tuning but if anything it would bring it lower and that is fine in my book because its currently higher than i want anyways.

either way im back to autocad to relocate the port to the side as buck recommended and in my past experience with a previous box/sub setup that had front firing subs with a up firing port it probably will be louder that way as he says it will be

 

[Frito11 10+ year member]

Sub/port forward won't be as loud as sub up port side or up.
I can't do this design until later, but if you know how to, do a side firing @ ~34 hz.

wait just to clarify your saying i should make the box with the sub firing up and the port also firing up or to the side correct?

if thats the case i need to adjust the box dimensions slightly and make it a little deeper as the external dim of my current box is 12.74" at the depth of the top and the woofer is 13.31" with its trim ring.

my current box for it is actually firing up as well port and sub both and its pretty loud for what it is so i'm with you

 

[Frito11 10+ year member]

ok basic design is done, still need to round the port edges and add 45's to the port turns and round those points but otherwise good to go i think.

specs are 1.8 cu ft after deducting driver port is tuned to 34.26 hz

 

[kmanian 5,000+ posts]

45's, round overs, and scoot the sub as close to the port exit as possible

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I would recommend side firing. I've gotten pretty loud in pickups doing side firing.

 

[Frito11 10+ year member]

45's, round overs, and scoot the sub as close to the port exit as possible

i intend to do the round overs and 45's just didnt feel up to modeling it atm.

I would recommend side firing. I've gotten pretty loud in pickups doing side firing.

really? idk i kind of think that up firing may be better in my truck as my entire roof is dynomatted to hell due to my previous subs i had that i told you about (reallly bad resonance hehe) the roof of my truck now acts like a sound wave reflector bouncing the waves off it back down at your head from what i could tell from the before and after when i did the dynomatting, it was a major db increase at the time with the 15's

 

[Frito11 10+ year member]

oh yeah the other problem i see with side firing is that i would have to make the port smaller and thus have more port noise due to the fact that i will loose like 10~ inches of port length

 

[iamamp3pimp 5,000+ posts]

with your original design, sidefiring would be best. perhaps make the port a little shorter, heightwise, thats why your port is so long, because the area is large.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

oh yeah the other problem i see with side firing is that i would have to make the port smaller and thus have more port noise due to the fact that i will loose like 10~ inches of port length

Actually it would be the opposite. Usually side firing means the port is more square shaped than rectangular because it can't be as wide. A port where the width and height are closer to the same value will have less port noise vs. the same inches^2 of a rectangular port due to the fact there is less surface area.

 

[Frito11 10+ year member]

Actually it would be the opposite. Usually side firing means the port is more square shaped than rectangular because it can't be as wide. A port where the width and height are closer to the same value will have less port noise vs. the same inches^2 of a rectangular port due to the fact there is less surface area.

i kinda get what your saying but the same square inches is the same thing as as having the same surface area. i think you mean to say that having a bigger dimensional ratio like say 8:1 will have more noise than a smaller ratio like 3:1 or 2:1 dimensionally even though the surface area of the port is equal

i know i can get away with a smaller port if i flare it and that is what will reduce port noise on a port that is too small. i unfortunately do not have a router but a buddy of mine does so i probably will end up doing a standard 3/4" radius flare on at least the port exit no matter what

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

What about using a 4 inch aeroport? In 1.8 cubes you'd need about 15.3inches. You could make it side firing with that. Plus you can change the tuning just by swapping in different length tubes.

 

[Frito11 10+ year member]

that is also an option, where do i buy aeroports though?

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

parts express or elemental designs.