Loud POP sound when turning ignition off.HELP

OP, you shouldn't need an upgraded alternator if you have a good battery up front and an additional battery in the rear.
Melted wire around a distro of fuse holder is a sign that you have a poor connection there.

As far as the pop, I'd also suggest looking towards the head unit, I've seen plenty of slash series amps and I've never heard of turn off pop issues from that amp.
Is a battery in the rear going to keep it over 14v? Even JL recommends alternators for the 1000/1.

 
Thanks to everyone for all the input.I think my next search may be on the Pioneer HU popping issues.

How about the green power light on the JL amp dimming with heavy bass notes.I have Stinger 4ga. Running to my additional battery and 4 ga. Feeding the 1000/1.

Does that 1000/1 draw so much as to tax the 4ga. Enough to not only dim the green power light, but occasionally clip the amp.Maybe there again a gounding issue.4 ga. Ground within say 12-18" of amp/battery.

 
Thanks to everyone for all the input.I think my next search may be on the Pioneer HU popping issues.How about the green power light on the JL amp dimming with heavy bass notes.I have Stinger 4ga. Running to my additional battery and 4 ga. Feeding the 1000/1.

Does that 1000/1 draw so much as to tax the 4ga. Enough to not only dim the green power light, but occasionally clip the amp.Maybe there again a gounding issue.4 ga. Ground within say 12-18" of amp/battery.
Yes they draw that much. It's the price you pay for RIPS. They changed the manual to show a 1/0 run to a 4awg block.

 
Because its a lot better wire.. wouldn't you want the best quality for your audio?. . . . And gives you room to upgrade. I dont think you should have the bare minimum for audio
I'm saying if he doesn't have the money to pay for OFC, CCA is not going to hinder him any for what he is using. Still leaving a lot of room to upgrade.

He is not running 3K watts burping/continuous play... give me a break.

 
I'm running OFC. Yet there are plenty of tests done on youtube and by other members on this forum that prove, CCA is no different under 250 amps.
I'm not saying it will be much different with what he is running. I just like to suggest the best. . Iv seen in person cca wire melt easyer and also seen it pretty much disintegrate when exposed to weather and stuff. . . . I just think when it comes to car audio you should always "overkill" or whatever you would say

 
I'm not saying it will be much different with what he is running. I just like to suggest the best. . Iv seen in person cca wire melt easyer and also seen it pretty much disintegrate when exposed to weather and stuff. . . . I just think when it comes to car audio you should always "overkill" or whatever you would say
There is no doubt its 'better', but for the price with his setup I would say not worth it. That's just my opinion.

 
I'm not saying it will be much different with what he is running. I just like to suggest the best. . Iv seen in person cca wire melt easyer and also seen it pretty much disintegrate when exposed to weather and stuff. . . . I just think when it comes to car audio you should always "overkill" or whatever you would say
OFC would oxidize and continue to oxidize when expose to the oxygenated elements compared to CCA. I'd also say if you're melting your primary wire you are having a major car fire in a few seconds.

 
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