Loud components

I moved the wires over to the input. OMG what a difference. Staging is improved 100% and quite a bit more volume. It is about the same maybe slightly more volume at 33 as it was at 40(max) before.

 
You dont need much to sound good and get loud. If you spent just a little money and did a little work, it could sound pretty good and be quite loud.
Just get a little 2ch. Ive used these before, work just fine for a simple setup like this. Will do everything you need and nothing you dont.

Crunch PZA1800.2 1800W, 2-Channel Power Zone Series Amplifier

Id run a pair of 10s per channel. Wouldnt take much to build a pod for them, they are pretty shallow.

Pyle Pro PBW10S 10" Midbass 292-2528

Then, just off the deck power, a single tweeter per door. Cross it around 3khz with a bassblocker.

Pyle Pro PDBT35 1" Titanium Super Tweeter 292-2556

Would sound great (Ive used this equipment before) if properly installed and tuned, and still be plenty loud. You would be at $360 out the door for 4 10s, a pair of tweets and an amp as well. Sounds like an easy decision to me.

it will sound just barely decent enough to be in a car far from great

 
I moved the wires over to the input. OMG what a difference. Staging is improved 100% and quite a bit more volume. It is about the same maybe slightly more volume at 33 as it was at 40(max) before.
not surprising. glad we got that vehicle straightened out.

now onto the new project...

i think running active with a 2-way set using pro audio speakers would give you good volume. you'll get what you pay for.

MCM Audio Select drivers are a budget system option.

Search results for "MCM AUDIO SELECT" in Audio & Video

just ensure the drivers you choose are suitable for the airspace you can give them.

 
It will maybe a little while before I get to it. I just heard about a house that is 20miles closer to my work that I am thinking about buying. This isn't any compitition car. I just want something that I can take to the lake and roll down the windows or open to doors and use it as a juke box and not drowned out by a couple 12's or maybe a 15. I guess it is all in the set up. My buddy has a Nissan truck with cheap 5.25in pioneers from walmart powered off the deck with 2 15in Rockford Punch 1's that scream and blend pretty well for what it is. Although maybe his Eclipse HU helps(can remember the model but it was highend a couple years ago).

From the reviews of the CDT HD's I read, they are pretty quiet. That is why I didn't look into if there was an issue before. Everything said the ES series are very loud and clean but the HD's are very clean but not that loud.

 
The music I listen to is mostly hard rock, grunge, late 90's pop/rock (semisonic, the verve, marcies playground), and some country. Country can really work a sub. I have a pretty decent sq set up in my dd. I do want loud but I don't want it to sound like a walmart boom box.

 
that is the beauty of a free society. An individual has the right and freedom to spend their money on what every they like,destroy it even if it makes another cringe. It is their money to do with as they see fit. It can be said about anything. I know guys that daily carry $500 pocket knives that most just buy to put in a case, or carry $1000 antique gun in their feed pick ups just in case they see a skunk or coyote. All of them get messed up and depreciate the value of said item. If they have no intension of getting rid of or reselling the item how does it matter.

 
that is the beauty of a free society. An individual has the right and freedom to spend their money on what every they like,destroy it even if it makes another cringe. It is their money to do with as they see fit. It can be said about anything. I know guys that daily carry $500 pocket knives that most just buy to put in a case, or carry $1000 antique gun in their feed pick ups just in case they see a skunk or coyote. All of them get messed up and depreciate the value of said item. If they have no intension of getting rid of or reselling the item how does it matter.
Because I can would have been a better reponse...

And...

Doing-it-wrong.jpg


 
being loud outside the car requires a different approach than trying to be loud inside the car. it may not seem obvious at first, but it's all about phase interference.

shortly after high school, i had a car that was very loud outside the car. it shook the rear view mirrors of cars within a 100ft radius. it shook the suspended ceilings of the buildings i drove by to the point they audibly buzzed (not just windows). vocals and music was actually clear and clean for blocks. i could pull up to a field, roll down the windows, and play for a party. and not because of thousands of watts, but because what left the vehicle was coherent and in-phase. i didn't understand it then, but looking back, i know why it did what it did. pretty simple really, just replace the back seat and build a line array.

3808500002_large.jpg


This isn't any compitition car. I just want something that I can take to the lake and roll down the windows or open to doors and use it as a juke box and not drowned out by a couple 12's or maybe a 15.
 
in order for music to leave the car, it needs a direct path out of the car. high frequencies will be gobbled up by the interior. if you can't directly see a tweeter cone/dome from outside the car, you won't hear it as well. this path could also be through the rear hatch/trunk. you could have a "B" system in the trunk/hatch that was for outside gatherings. i've done that before as well. just use some relays to switch between the two systems. open the rear, kill the fronts, and play out the back.

 
my original response was
"cause I am n----- rich and I can" but thought that it my go over like a turd in punch bowl so I edited it.
I was being sarcastic and I dont think your buddys take thier antique large bore rifle, cut the stock off throw it in the back seat, take some shots then ask why they cant hit ****..

 
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