Loud components

[sam_b03 10+ year member]

I live in a rural area and do have much access to sampling good audio. I installed a 3 way component CDT HD 642 powered buy an avionixx amp bridged for 220rms/side in my 370z with a IDQ 12for the low end. I really like it but while it sounds really clear it isn't very loud. I bought it this way on purpose but I want a LOUD system in my other car. It is completely gutted 95 Nissan 240sx. It was a former drag car with a chevy 350 in it. I won't be able to drown out the engine noise but I would like to be able to hear some music.

Right now I am thinking about a Sundown SA-12 where the back seat used to be possibly a 15. I will have to build the box inside the car because of the 10 point roll cage. I don't know just how stong the alt. is so I am going 1000rms for the hole system. I don't think I can justify much over $250 for a set but cheaper wouldn't hurt my feelings. I was looking at some the prices on woofersetc and there is still quite a selection.

Click to read more...

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

You might be able to do something about that engine noise if you use MLV and CCF to help deaden the vehicle. Granted it won't do you much if you open the window, though. If you have an SQ setup now and just want a louder version of that look into the SSA Icon, though I think they are/have gone out of stock and will be for a month or so.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

also if you mat the doors you should get louder with the comps

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

also if you mat the doors you should get louder with the comps

 

[06goat 10+ year member]

From the reading, it seems like this 240 is built for speed. Why in the hell would you weigh it down with a big box/sub? Loud set of components I can understand, but why add the extra 150lbs for bass?

 

[UnderFire 10+ year member]

From the reading, it seems like this 240 is built for speed. Why in the hell would you weigh it down with a big box/sub? Loud set of components I can understand, but why add the extra 150lbs for bass?

Sounds like it used to be a drag car but he's trying to make it drivable daily.

 

[galacticmonkey 5,000+ posts]

If this is something where you're just trying to get some loud highs, go for pro audio. You could get some real nice stuff for $300.

 

[sam_b03 10+ year member]

Underfire is right. I wanted a V8 converted 240, but couldn't justify spending 6K to wind up with a $4500 car. So I bought another guys lose. I didn't build it so it is what the other guy wanted. I have to change it to make it meet my needs. It is just a toy more of a go to bar or when I want to melt some tires. It ran hot and got the head gasket so I have some new better heads being built. It should be in the 400hp range when done. I am going to use the rest of the RAMMAT that I have left over from the 370 and have alot of the adhesive foam. It rattles bad. I did have some Infinity 693's and the IDQ sub in it to start but it was pretty washed out by the engine. I do have pipes out the back instead of dumping them out under the seats like in the first video. That made a HUGE difference. It will be a little while before I state making the stereo purchases. I need to see that the motor is lined out first. I am doing the research and figuring out what I want right now.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

pics of their installation will help. you have a $800 component set with a lot of power available - properly installed and set up it should be plenty loud. but this isn't about that car...

maybe try to get a used set of ID HLCD's. If you want loud, look to horn speakers. car audio horn speakers are assymetric. pro audio horns are symmetric and aiming is important and difficult to achieve in a standard vehicle. If the car is gutted and you can build a new dash, incorporating horns shouldn't be much of a challenge. Another option that was suggested is looking to pro audio speakers. There are a few issues to this, but you can get some fairly efficient drivers that have high power handling capability.

JBL and B&C makes some very nice pro audio stuff that can sound really good if properly implemented. Eminence and Pyle Pro have some affordable horns and cone midrange drivers. They won't sound as good as your CDT components, but you're spending 1/3 the price. you won't have the space for a horn midrange, so looking for a cone midrange driver with high efficiency that is suitable for a smaller, sealed enclosure is one approach.

Here are some affordable efficient midrange drivers:

Eminence Alpha-6C 6" Midrange 4 Ohm 290-399

Pyle Pro PNDW6 6.5" Midbass 292-2584

while i've never liked the sound of a bullet tweeter in a car, it is certainly an option for high output and more compact than a standard horn

Selenium ST300-SLF Super Tweeter Aluminum Housing 264-355

or try to fit these in your kicks on-axis

Eminence Beta-8CX 8" Coaxial Driver 290-500

Image Dynamics had some 2 ohm components in their CX-62 that get pretty **** loud, just in your price range. Usually some for sale in our classifieds or DIYMA. Pair up the CX-62 woofer with an HLCD and you got a loud combination (1/3 oct EQ recommended).

 

[sam_b03 10+ year member]

pics of their installation will help. you have a $800 component set with a lot of power available - properly installed and set up it should be plenty loud. but this isn't about that car...

I Rammatted the door skinbehind the speaker used a 3/4 or 1 in spacer in the factory hole for the mids. I installed the tweeters (not shown) in the door panels infront of the door handles. Its about arm pit level and about a foot infront of your of our ears in a normal riding position. I didn't have room for the 4in speakers in the doors and I didn't want to them get damaged by a foot in the kick panel. My car doesn't have large foot wells to begin with. They already had mud and scuffs on them when I started the project with less than 3 thousand miles. I wound up installing them behind the front seats at about shoulder level. It is the factory location for some speakers if you spring for the Bose stereo. I know this really jacks up the staging but I didn't want try my first time with fiber on a new car.

driver's door

passenger's door

4in behind seat

and sub in Z enclosure box

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Do not run the front woofers through the passive crossover then. Run the front woofers full range (or just with the HPF that corresponds with the sub LPF). That mid plays the majority of the music you hear, being behind you is a problem if you are just using the passive crossover that came with the set. you can still run the mid through the crossover, but since you have no fader, it won't perform the way it could. You could just now run the rear mid or get it on separate amp channels and attenuate it. I would vote for not bridging the set and getting some 2-way crossovers that are made to go with the front woofer and tweeter to run ofmthe front amp channels, then running the rear mids through the 3-way crossover mid output on the rear amp channels. While you will have less power, it should sound a lot better, and louder.

 

[galacticmonkey 5,000+ posts]

You dont need much to sound good and get loud. If you spent just a little money and did a little work, it could sound pretty good and be quite loud.

Just get a little 2ch. Ive used these before, work just fine for a simple setup like this. Will do everything you need and nothing you dont.

Crunch PZA1800.2 1800W, 2-Channel Power Zone Series Amplifier

Id run a pair of 10s per channel. Wouldnt take much to build a pod for them, they are pretty shallow.

Pyle Pro PBW10S 10" Midbass 292-2528

Then, just off the deck power, a single tweeter per door. Cross it around 3khz with a bassblocker.

Pyle Pro PDBT35 1" Titanium Super Tweeter 292-2556

Would sound great (Ive used this equipment before) if properly installed and tuned, and still be plenty loud. You would be at $360 out the door for 4 10s, a pair of tweets and an amp as well. Sounds like an easy decision to me.

 

[sam_b03 10+ year member]

To get this correct. I could unbridge my amp. run the passive crossovers (4in and tweet off the rear channels) then run my 6in off the front channels and use the cross overs from my reciever on them. I think the passive are set at 55hz not sure of the highend I think it was around 3K. I know I don't get much sound out of them right now. I could get RCA splitters so I would still have stereo.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

you want front/rear fader in order to attenuate the rear mids. you installed a 2-way front component set and a mid rear fill. you just don't have it wired correctly for that configuration.

you don't get much sound out of the woofers because of the crossover. step one to more output is to simply wire the woofers full range (move the woofer wires to the crossover input terminals). that will instantly give you more output. try this first without un-bridging the amp.

to better control front/rear information, you would un-bridge the amp, get a 2-way crossover from CDT that is made for the 6.5" woofers and tweeters (i'm sure one exists already as CDT will mix and match drivers for different sets). the bandpass filter on the midrange output of the 3-way crossover is adequate for rear fill, you just need to turn down the level.

i recommend you try this: front HU output feeds the front woofer and tweeter amp channels, rear HU output feeds the rear midrange amp channels. new crossover for front woofer and tweeter. reuse existing crossover for rear fill mids.

 

[sam_b03 10+ year member]

awesome that is an easy enough fix for now. Just moving a couple wires and see how it sounds.