Lights still dim, time for second battery?

plyer3
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
I've asked this before but want to make sure if I really need a second battery.

My setup:

Type-R 6.5 Components 110rms

Kicker 6x9s 100rms

Both powered by an MTX Thunder 3404, running 50x4 @ 4ohm into all the speakers.

2 Type-R 12s

powered by an Orion 1200D

so that's around 1400RMS power going into the speakers

My electrical system consists of a 165AMP Alto, Kinetik HC1400, and the Big 3 Upgrade. I may have to clean the ground more, but I don't know if that'll affect the system.

So if I do need a new battery, what the best to get? I prefer a smaller one since I need the trunk space and don't really like having a battery in the trunk. If I can get another battery under the hood, what should I get? I have a friend with the same car(honda accord) and he has 2 batteries next to each other. They had to make a tight fit though, and he replaced his airfilter in order to have space next to the battery.

 
Yeah the 2400 is a good battery, it's just so f*cking huge. Still though I love mine, does me good. But to answer your question I would get an hc 800 in the back and maybe put a 2400 up front if you can.

 
Yeah the 2400 is a good battery, it's just so f*cking huge. Still though I love mine, does me good. But to answer your question I would get an hc 800 in the back and maybe put a 2400 up front if you can.
i doubt the hc2400 fit in the front, if it did, it might've stopped my dimming by itself. im planning to fit another battery next to my front battery by replacing my air filter with an intake airfilter. hopefully the batcap 2000 will fit, if not, it's going in the back.

 
A battery is ONLY going to help play time while the engine is off.

Where do you think the batt gets it's charge from? (Admitted the batteries chemical reaction increases it's charge slowly)

BUT....

the Alternator is still the issue here. You can have it re-wound to put out more.

It has three windings that pass by a stator, technically it is an 3 phase AC Generator, then the diodes convert it to single phase DC. Thusly, why upgrading the internals you will acheive a higher DC output, even at idle.

 
A battery is ONLY going to help play time while the engine is off.
Where do you think the batt gets it's charge from? (Admitted the batteries chemical reaction increases it's charge slowly)

BUT....

the Alternator is still the issue here. You can have it re-wound to put out more.

It has three windings that pass by a stator, technically it is an 3 phase AC Generator, then the diodes convert it to single phase DC. Thusly, why upgrading the internals you will acheive a higher DC output, even at idle.
The battery(s) are what pick up the change on big power surges. In big systems, the alternator typically serves as a high current battery charger, not as the primary source of power for the amps. Adding more battery power means more reserve power and maximum current draw, which means voltage stays more stable during big bass hits.

An upgraded alternator is always good, but a battery can be much cheaper and more convenient and in many cases do the job.

 
The battery(s) are what pick up the change on big power surges. In big systems, the alternator typically serves as a high current battery charger, not as the primary source of power for the amps. Adding more battery power means more reserve power and maximum current draw, which means voltage stays more stable during big bass hits.
An upgraded alternator is always good, but a battery can be much cheaper and more convenient and in many cases do the job.
Not to mention he should have more than enough alternator to handle the power he is running assuming it is in fact working correctly.

 
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plyer3

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