LC6i install help

[C1500martin 10+ year member]

So I'm about to install my new setup in my 2006 mazda 6 non bose factory system. I'm using an LC6i to get 6 channels, component set upfront, coaxial out back, and sub. amps are SQ Q4-90, and

Q1-1200. Jbl p660 comp set, SQ QX-652 coaxials, and a dayton HO 12. In the front doors theres a comp set, with tweeter and mid, and rear coaxial. where do i get my signals from? the lc6i has main input, ch 2, and ch 3. i want main to be the components ch 1&2 on the amp and ch2 the coaxials on ch 3&4, and ch 3, to be my sub channel? i know i get it from the speaker wire but if which one do i use? the tweeters, the kids and the coax all 3?

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[C1500martin 10+ year member]

Anyone?

 

[fasfocus00 5,000+ posts]

front tweeter L&R to main channels, front mids L&R to channel 2, sub to both channel 3 inputs. than just use the main output which will be a summed signal.

 

[C1500martin 10+ year member]

front tweeter L&R to main channels, front mids L&R to channel 2, sub to both channel 3 inputs. than just use the main output which will be a summed signal.

So i would only use the main output, and 3 sets of y splitters

 

[fasfocus00 5,000+ posts]

So i would only use the main output, and 3 sets of y splitters

i wouldn't use splitters, i'd use a Audiocontrol Matrix or an EQ that accepts one pair of RCAs in and puts 3 pairs out.

 

[C1500martin 10+ year member]

**** theres no way of just using the lc6i? I really dont want to spend anymore as i already doubled my budget for this...?

 

[jeepguylv]

here is the way I understand it, you have 2 amps right, one 4 ch. one mono, so that is 6 ch. total, your lc6i is 6 ch., so I would use the front left and right speaker wires to main input, then the rear left and right to ch2 , then I would use jumper wires from ch.2 to ch.3

 

[AudioControl 10+ year member]

First you'll need to identify the signals at your factory amplifier. For a non-Bose system, you may have full range front and rear or in some instances you may have separate signals for tweeters and mids for front, full range for rear and sometimes a sub.

If you have separate factory signals for tweeters and mids in front, connect the tweeters to channel 1, the mids to channel 3 and the rear to channel 2. Sum channel 3 to main and leave channel 2 separate. On the output side, channel 1 is your front signal (summed from channel 1 and 3), channel 2 is your rear signal (remains separate) and channel 3 is your sub signal (using the front door woofer signal). Alternatively, If you have a factory sub and want to use that and are OK with losing F/R fade, then remove the rear signals, move the front doors to channel 2 (sum channel 2 to main), connect the sub signal to channel 3 (separate from main). Now channel 1 is front/rear (use a splitter or 2 channel mode on your amp) and channel 3 is sub.

If your factory signals are simply full range front/rear and no sub, then connect front to channel 1, rear to channel 2 and let the LC6i automatically create a sub signal for you on channel 3. Channel 3 uses a feature called AutoMode to look for signal; if there is no signal present on channel 3, it looks to channel 2 (your rear signal in this case). You'll end up with channel 1 for fronts, channel 2 for rears and channel 3 for sub.

Hope this helps.

 

[jeepguylv]

First you'll need to identify the signals at your factory amplifier. For a non-Bose system, you may have full range front and rear or in some instances you may have separate signals for tweeters and mids for front, full range for rear and sometimes a sub.
If you have separate factory signals for tweeters and mids in front, connect the tweeters to channel 1, the mids to channel 3 and the rear to channel 2. Sum channel 3 to main and leave channel 2 separate. On the output side, channel 1 is your front signal (summed from channel 1 and 3), channel 2 is your rear signal (remains separate) and channel 3 is your sub signal (using the front door woofer signal). Alternatively, If you have a factory sub and want to use that and are OK with losing F/R fade, then remove the rear signals, move the front doors to channel 2 (sum channel 2 to main), connect the sub signal to channel 3 (separate from main). Now channel 1 is front/rear (use a splitter or 2 channel mode on your amp) and channel 3 is sub.

If your factory signals are simply full range front/rear and no sub, then connect front to channel 1, rear to channel 2 and let the LC6i automatically create a sub signal for you on channel 3. Channel 3 uses a feature called AutoMode to look for signal; if there is no signal present on channel 3, it looks to channel 2 (your rear signal in this case). You'll end up with channel 1 for fronts, channel 2 for rears and channel 3 for sub.

Hope this helps.

that's cool, didn't know about that feature

 

[C1500martin 10+ year member]

First you'll need to identify the signals at your factory amplifier. For a non-Bose system, you may have full range front and rear or in some instances you may have separate signals for tweeters and mids for front, full range for rear and sometimes a sub.
If you have separate factory signals for tweeters and mids in front, connect the tweeters to channel 1, the mids to channel 3 and the rear to channel 2. Sum channel 3 to main and leave channel 2 separate. On the output side, channel 1 is your front signal (summed from channel 1 and 3), channel 2 is your rear signal (remains separate) and channel 3 is your sub signal (using the front door woofer signal). Alternatively, If you have a factory sub and want to use that and are OK with losing F/R fade, then remove the rear signals, move the front doors to channel 2 (sum channel 2 to main), connect the sub signal to channel 3 (separate from main). Now channel 1 is front/rear (use a splitter or 2 channel mode on your amp) and channel 3 is sub.

If your factory signals are simply full range front/rear and no sub, then connect front to channel 1, rear to channel 2 and let the LC6i automatically create a sub signal for you on channel 3. Channel 3 uses a feature called AutoMode to look for signal; if there is no signal present on channel 3, it looks to channel 2 (your rear signal in this case). You'll end up with channel 1 for fronts, channel 2 for rears and channel 3 for sub.

Hope this helps.

JUST the person or people i was hoping came in with their expertise! The second paragraph is EXACTLY what i needed thanks! My system does consist of actively ran tweeters and mids in the front and then coaxials out back with NO subwoofer. So to sum channel 3 to main i would need to move the jumper on ch 3 to the summed portion and leave the jumper on separate for channel 2?

 

[AudioControl 10+ year member]

That is correct - move the summing jumper to "Summed" on channel 3 and leave the channel 2 jumper set to "Separate".

Here is an example of how this will look (LCQ-1 in this case):

 

[C1500martin 10+ year member]

That is correct - move the summing jumper to "Summed" on channel 3 and leave the channel 2 jumper set to "Separate".
Here is an example of how this will look (LCQ-1 in this case):

ok cool thanks! i was just confused because in all the visual diagrams such as the one you posted it shows, Factory radio to Factory amp to unit. in my case there is no Factory amp but i guess its the same thing as long as channel 3 and "main" are summed together to create one complete or "full range" output. Once again THANK YOU!!!

 

[AudioControl 10+ year member]

Yes, the factory amp will either be external or built into the factory head unit (powered deck) as in your case.