Kryptonitewhite's PICS and VIDS build log Fi IB3 18" and 22"

[Kryptonitewhite 10+ year member]

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif I was thinking the same thing... I havent seen a single pic/vid with a shirt

well here then... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif

 

[Kryptonitewhite 10+ year member]

oh, you mean me.... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[mklett33 10+ year member]

Looks interesting, I hate the look of the aztec though

 

[Kryptonitewhite 10+ year member]

Looks interesting, I hate the look of the aztec though

EVERY one does except 1 so far

 

[Kryptonitewhite 10+ year member]

As of yet, every box I have built was constructed out of car. This one is going to be along these lines, and I am struggling with caulk/glue and screw. I am OCD and anal when it comes to this.... so I am hoping for a bunch of links with different pics like these showing how best to put front/back/top/sides together securely. I'm hoping I don't just glue/caulk the hell out of it and set them together.... I am used to flush ands butted up together and putting 2 1/2" screws in.... but when it's the entire height/width/depth, you can't get in there to drill.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

On to the updates. As usally there's not to much, I'm an extremely busy person. And there's not enough hours in the day.
well I finished both side walls. And close to finishing their second layer.

I got a max width of 44" at the bottom, and around 42"- 40" at the top.

 

[bigbangtheory 5,000+ posts]

Yes, man bobbies, just what I want to see.

I loath Azteks, but should get loud for what you are trying to accomplish. I wish my wife was more into the audioz! Then again she keeps me grounded for more important things.

 

[sikcavy 10+ year member]

use L brackets then fiberglass and resin the inside of the box after your done to seal everything up.

 

[Kryptonitewhite 10+ year member]

use L brackets then fiberglass and resin the inside of the box after your done to seal everything up.

My first fiberglass box: normally cost less than 50 to build, but 2 cans of fiberglass added 100:

 

[mendon mafia 10+ year member]

red tops?

 

[Kryptonitewhite 10+ year member]

red tops?

6 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[Kryptonitewhite 10+ year member]

so I couldn't wait anymore, I decided to use the wood I have to build a quick box to get us through so we could take our time and do the final box as good as we can. so we re-took some measurements so we could build as big as we could outside and slide it in. I didn't calculate anything, just got the max dimensions and made the port go all the way back less 1 port diameter.... I just did it and what a trip, it's right where we were aiming for anyway... we might just keep this box as is unless we do get a 22".... I put the port close to the sub to get more wall clearance, making this box obsolete for a 22"...cuz it is ... was... just a temp sloppy box to get by... well check this, I was aiming for >20 cubes and 15Hz tuning.... and now that I sat down, we have 22 cubes @ 15Hz with a 20" port length. What are the freakin odds?!

I'm keepin it as is. Now the big debate may as well start now, so after I post these pics here ( camera died, I have to go out and take more pics now that we're home... box basically complete in-car....)

After this post I'll post my plans I made 2 weeks ago... showing we are on target as is //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

taking out factory

considering leaving factory in and putting CD deck in center console

looks good

the driver side power window has been intermitten... switch is going bad... decided to pull the door apart too to replace switch and see what we're working with to put 2 Extremis 6.4's in each door... fiberglass/bondo

 

[Kryptonitewhite 10+ year member]

thank god ya can't see my measurements, cuts, or close ups of the final outcome... I was in a hurry to get something in by the end of the day

freezing rain and windy all day

front... close to wall/baffle size to get an idea of what the wall will be like

blurry... shows how close we are, taking up just about everything we can

bottom too

my sausages stickin out... i liked sitting inside the box when it was complete too

 

[CobraStang98 10+ year member]

Very nice looking build up to this point....

Definately more info on the Parthenon project, even to today i wonder wht kind of greatness would have come from tht motor.

 

[Kryptonitewhite 10+ year member]

Very nice looking build up to this point....
Definately more info on the Parthenon project, even to today i wonder wht kind of greatness would have come from tht motor.

Talk to Kevin Haskins of Exodus Audio... he is implementing the Parthenon into his 21" Sick! EDIT: Sicko

 

[Kryptonitewhite 10+ year member]

BEFORE WE GET INTO THE BIG DEBATE:

I have t-nuts and #10 security screws that do not fit into the mounting flange holes on the sub!!!!

OK, debate on.

I know, I know... "why tune below 25-27Hz in car?!" Music rarely has information below 30Hz... why tune below 33Hz!!! Car's cabin gain can be as much as 12dB/oct from 60Hz on down.... yadda yadda.

For those of you that will NOT be able to just deal with it, please PLEASE just pretend it is 22 cubes SEALED for an IB sub! PLEASE! ( I know you won't but at least I asked) Since you know so much, then you know that all vented cabinets act as a sealed enclosure above the range where the port helps. So me tuning at 15Hz, IF the port is never used cuz my music doesn't go that low, I would be more than happy with this sub in a sealed cabinet of it's size, especially after cabin gain. (not really, but I'm tired of this argument)

I have done this before. The 4th order bandpass design you see in my avatar (some of your forums require too juch effort to add a custom avatar, I will include a pic) is with an F3 of 20Hz and an S factor of .7 I designed it from Shavono.com before I learned how to use Bass Box Pro 6 and WinISD Pro. My POS Lanzar amp bottomed the sub before I got to even seal the lid... it's advertised shut off mute did not work after testing.... so the former smashed on the top plate and the coil unwound. I had to cut it open and it became a vented cabinet of 5.1 cubic feet tuned to 19Hz. I had an S15L7 in 3.5 cubes @ 27Hz. I have been there, i have done that, I have heard good setups tuned to 33Hz and 27Hz, deal with it!